i bought a 99 integra ls last week. original owners. older couple. bone stock never touched. has about 139k on it. at 106k he had the timing belt and water pump replaced. my question is whats too many miles to boost a stock LS? i would be shooting for around 300hp. figure the basics. arp rod bolts. other wise stock block. am i gonna be asking for trouble here?

 

300hp is roughly 250whp, that's been done on many LS engines around your mileage. the #1 test you can do to determine health is a leakdown and compression. if those numbers are good, have at it.

 

Compression tested?

If all the maintenance looks good and the compression comes back in check then why not? The ARP's are good idea.

You will be running the same risks even if it had 39k on it. There are people running setups with many more miles than you have and seeing no issues.

Just keep your eye on everything.

 

the rods are probably your biggest risk. that said the single best thing you can do is NOT up the factory redline.

 

sorry meant 300whp. compression test is the only thing left on the list. everything else is fine. ill just upgrade the rods then and be safe. any word on the bisi rods? was going to mention tuner toys but i think they closed up.

 

Thats motor is a baby, its fine for boost and 300whp raneg isnt a problem with a good tuner

 

if you're gonna get new rods, no point in using stock pistons with them.

 

no point in touching the bottom end period for that power level. Bone stock with a 50 trim and a cast log will get it done

 

that it will but what's reliability been like for you 18b guys with stock rods and 300whp? i know it's quite safe on the 18c but those rods are stronger.

what's been the general consensus provided a guy doesn't go over 7000rpm?

 

i put the supercharger on my b18b with almost 200k on it, 8psi, no problems at all, and i would feel quite confident going all the way up to 10-12psi with it, beyond that then it becomes questionable. Still id be more worried about the pistons then anything.

 

sexy right?

 

i see a semi dangerous perma mounted fuel pressure gauge, what appears to be an automatic transmission and a short block with either valve impact or you scraping the top of a piston, can't tell which from the pic

 

The stock bottom end will last with 300whp no problem with a good tune plain and simple. The rods arent the weak point of the ls bottom end it sht estock cast pistons with weak ringlands, if timing isnt to aggressive this isnt an issue.

Stock ls rod bolts are next on weak links and there hurt from rpm not power production and everyone like to say you need rod bolts to rev an ls rod higher than 7k but ive had plenty of people reving stock ls bottom ends to 8200 with vtec heads. Ive personally reved stock ls bottom ends to 8500rpm daily driven for years and havent had problems.

Again leave it stock, maybe do head studs and 300whp isnt a big thing

 

no yes and no, my engine ran beautifully up until i took the head off to swap for the ported one

 

why would you call that a dangerous mounted fuel pressure gauge

 

i wouldn't go so far as to call it dangerous. it's just more likely to leak than a bolt

 

its fine, ive been running an EBAY liquid filled fuel presure gauge on the top of my fuel filter for 5 years same gauge. no leaks

 

does anyone have any experience with these rods? http://fjdistributors.com/product_in...roducts_id=282

 

looks like a generic china rod

both eagle and manley make h beams people have tested with high levels of power

i know the manleys have the same hp rating and cost the same money, why take chances?

 

who carries eagles at a decent price? just started looking today.

 

brand wise manley is a better name, if there is any structural difference between these and eagle it's hard to say.

here's 329 shipped

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Manle...#ht_2744wt_939


or the eagles

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Eagle...#ht_2743wt_899