hey i got steel braided lines but when i tap the oil pan what should i use? should i got to home depot and get a bolt that i can weld to the oil pan and then uses some lock tight? what would u guys recommedn heres a pic of the fitting i got

 

2 ways it can be done. The fitting in the pic can be screwed in with jb weld, or you get a metal fitting just like it and use a tig welder to weld it in.

 

Another option. When using SS lines. You can just use a bulkhead, and use a nut to hold it on the inside of the oil pan, then just run the line from the oilpan to the drain on the turbo. You can also get a machined fitting that bolts to the turbo and you just screw in the fitting that will work. Use a -10 line.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mp3albums2k2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Another option. When using SS lines. You can just use a bulkhead, and use a nut to hold it on the inside of the oil pan, then just run the line from the oilpan to the drain on the turbo. You can also get a machined fitting that bolts to the turbo and you just screw in the fitting that will work. Use a -10 line.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont reccomend the nut on the inside, the threads are tapered on that side of the fitting. either get an alloy fitting like the one you have, from like ace hardware or something. or find a good nut to weld to the pan, note: has to be tig welded.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slow poke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why do you guys say it has to be tiged? I have seen plenty of people use a mig with no problems.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup, mig welded mine and it was fine...make sure you get a steel or stainless fitting and not aluminum

 

MIG'd mine on just fine. Got the fitting from a hydraulics shop for $2

 

Jb weld

 

went to home Depot and mig'd a steel fitting onto it.

 

i got a little pipe thats bend and dumps it in. cheapest way to go because u gota use stainless steel lines and all these fittings without it.

 

i think im gonna go with dennis idea

 

might as well spend a little extra for a tig, it looks nicer and it will never leak. The mig welds are too thick.

 

Use a weld fitting...they are sold at places like jegs or summit...would not ever use jb weld on something like this.....my opinion...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fqnjdmboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use a weld fitting...they are sold at places like jegs or summit...would not ever use jb weld on something like this.....my opinion...</TD></TR></TABLE>

but maybe over time it might get loose, i want it welded and as far as tig why tig weld it right there? no one is going to look at it. at long as it is welded good im cool.

 

Jb weld isnt weld it comes out of a god damn tube...its a hillbilly rig....no way I would chance my engine on some $5 bullshit....my opionion....

 

yeah whats all the "HYPE" of you have to tig weld it or you will get leaks. If done properley should easily be able to me mig welded. Im going to be mig'ing mine in, in a few hours. I will post pics to prove some people wrong.


Remeber not eveyone has acces to a tig.

 

It's the hype of 2005 yO! I've MIG'd many return bungs. No leaks, no problems. I've gotten great penetration and good looks too. I've built two kits from scratch, MIG'ing all charge piping / exhaust / downpipe / flanges. The first kit I made is 2 years old now with no problems. It's all about using what you have. Although, that's all gonna change as I just bought a syncrowave 180sd

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fqnjdmboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Jb weld isnt weld it comes out of a god damn tube...its a hillbilly rig....no way I would chance my engine on some $5 bullshit....my opionion....</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha, chance your engine? It's a gravity oil return that is very obviously leaking or not. The point it that it costs $5 and anyone can do it. It works, it does not leak. It's just preference I guess.

 

I used an Earls bulkhead fitting with the nut that screws on from the inside of the oil pan. I also got some kind of rubber strat-o-seals.

Thing started to come loose after about a year and 1/2.

Do it right the first time and save yourself the headache. Get the oil return welded on there and be done with it.