Surviving A Boost Spike
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Location: b00sting my D16s, SoWis, USA
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Surviving A Boost Spike
I'm curious to know what most tuners (in this case, people who tune 10+ cars/yr) do to high-strung setups to prevent boost spike destruction. The ways I know of are safety pop-off valves, boost-cut in an ems, and altering the ems's last 1 or 2 boost columns by enriching and retarding. I know a pop-off valve is a no-brainer, but also not very adjustable - and mechanical. Boost cut tends to be a fuel cut at a specific psi, which I've heard can be just as fatal.
I've always felt that everyone [running built setups] should just alter the last few cells in the map to increase fuel & retard timing. Some may argue thats a few extra psi they can't use, or that its bad for the turbine and can wash out rings - acceptable except that it shouldn't be a constant thing. In most cases you just need a physical indicator that will give you enough time to let off the throttle, since [excessive] boost can build faster than your response time from the gauge to your foot.
Opinions?
btw my last bout with a boost spike (tube came off wg nipple) was survived with less than elegant solution - my charge pipe coupler blew off 25psi on a stock d16 wouldn't have been pretty.
I've always felt that everyone [running built setups] should just alter the last few cells in the map to increase fuel & retard timing. Some may argue thats a few extra psi they can't use, or that its bad for the turbine and can wash out rings - acceptable except that it shouldn't be a constant thing. In most cases you just need a physical indicator that will give you enough time to let off the throttle, since [excessive] boost can build faster than your response time from the gauge to your foot.
Opinions?
btw my last bout with a boost spike (tube came off wg nipple) was survived with less than elegant solution - my charge pipe coupler blew off 25psi on a stock d16 wouldn't have been pretty.
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