Well either my headgaskets blown or my piston rings are shot due to the clouds of white/blue smoke coming from my exahust... I have a b16 completely bone stock with a fullrace turbo kit on it with a t3/t4 57 trim turbo.

I just got a recent membership to yoparts and now its time to build the beast before spring comes. Skunk2 pro series fuel rail, 70mm throttle body and intake mani are all ordered already and now im in the process of selecting the right internals. I was thinking je pistons and eagle rods... Now is sleeving really necessary to achieve 400whp daily driven? The head will be left stock for a few months. But the whole fuel system is done, i have hondata, and a 3 inch turbo back.. Is 400whp achievable with my current mods and stock sleeves? Are GSR sleeves thicker? And on stock sleeves what would a good piston size be? Is a stock bore piston the smartest way to go? Would 9.0:1 compression be good for a 57 trim running 15ish pounds of boost?

Thanks for the help. I will upload plenty of pictures of the build in the next few weeks and a detailed write up of the disassembly and reassembly my motor. And jdm front end install due to some moron backing into me a few months ago and annihilated my hood, lights and bumper.

 

If you can keep the 81 mm bore that would be best, the less you take away from the sleeves the better. I would say no you dont have to sleeve for 400 but do stay around 9.0:1 compression, the less compression the safer it will be if something goes wrong. DO find your self a very good tuner and it should be ok. With the number of people running 600+ on stock sleeves I would say they can handle the 400. But each engine is different and 400 is alot.

All I can say is I would do it on stock sleeves and rods.

 

this is true it is up to you if you want to sleeve, like said there are stock sleeves holding up to 600 but then there are cracked sleeves at 300 sometimes you get lucky, you can always build it and sleeve it later at 81mm if you do crack a sleeve . but imo if you want it reliable 400whp then sleeve it

 

More than likely your ringlands are gone in your current motor. What to see if there was any damage done to the bore before you decide on this. You may have to sleeve it anyways depending on the damage done but I doubt it will be this bad. I plan on running stock sleeves up to 500hp but Im also posting the block which should help out. You should be fine on stock sleeves.

 

How can i tell if the ringlands are gone? Also what should i look for in the stock sleeves when i take it all apart? Complete smoothness haha? Ill take plenty of pics of each cylinder wall so you guys can double check everything for me.. I would most likely keep stock sleeves if i can get away with it. Unless i can find a sleeved b16 somewhere for like 750-900 bucks.

thanks for the feedback keep it coming

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ef dino &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How can i tell if the ringlands are gone? Also what should i look for in the stock sleeves when i take it all apart? Complete smoothness haha? Ill take plenty of pics of each cylinder wall so you guys can double check everything for me.. I would most likely keep stock sleeves if i can get away with it. Unless i can find a sleeved b16 somewhere for like 750-900 bucks.

thanks for the feedback keep it coming </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you want to do it right, you will need to over bore...

Most shelf pistons you can buy will be 81.5mm. You will want good forged pistons, and aftermarket rods. Your crank should be checked and micropolished and sized for new bearings. A competent machine shop should be able to do all of that for you and assemble the bottom end.

I use Phil's Machine Service in Nyack, NY...he does great work, very communicative and gets it done fast all for a very fair price. He is no more than 45 minutes from you if you are in fact in Bloomfield, NJ.

400 hp should be fine on stock sleeves...but sometimes stock sleeves will go. I'd like to say it all depends on the tune, but thats only partially true. If you want to sleeve...that can make the motor pretty solid at only 400 hp, but thats an extra expense. Extra security costs extra

Z10 in middle NJ is offering pretty good rates on block sleeving right now...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ef dino &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How can i tell if the ringlands are gone?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You need: motor oil, compression tester, leak-down tester, and close inspection of valve seals & turbo.

If the comp test shows #'s w/in 5% of each other, do the leak-down. If each are w/in 3-5% of each other, it could be your valve seals or turbo.

Your valves should all appear the same color, otherwise a leaky seal will add crusty **** to the exhaust, and possibly alter the temp of the valve vs the others. Due to the carbon deposites absorbing all light, you'll probably have to take the head off for this.

Try taking the turbo off and running NA. An easy way is to unbolt the exhaust housing, then bolting a plate to where the CHRA was on the housing. If it still smokes w/o the turbo, its not the turbo.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hellakapps &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is true it is up to you if you want to sleeve, like said there are stock sleeves holding up to 600 but then there are cracked sleeves at 300 sometimes you get lucky, you can always build it and sleeve it later at 81mm if you do crack a sleeve . but imo if you want it reliable 400whp then sleeve it</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ppl running 600 on stock sleeves dont dd their car, with that much power its a track setup. And the reason for sleeves cracking at 300 is either b/c of the tune or a part defect. not the sleeve there is no such thinng as getting lucky when building a turbo setup, it either runs right or something messes up. Even if he did bore over the option of sleeving is always there, no matter the bore he had to begin with unless he blows a whole in the block. For a reliable 400whp there is no need for sleeves, just find a good reliable tuner