ShortbusEK

My b16a2 block returned from Z10 yesterday with beautiful AEBS t-sleeves and o-rings. It will be an 84mm bore. im leaning toward a 35r.. 42r has crossed my mind but i feel like that would just be "number searching" and no fun to drive normally... so more than likely ill pick up my buddys gt35r.. I have spent some time reading the stroker posts.. but with most info on here its jumbled and confusing. I have planned to just keep stock stroke.. but i cant get the idea of stroking it outta my head.. i have looked into the crower stroker kits which i feel are priced pretty well.. I am no math master but its my understanding that rod/stroke ratios play somewhat of a role in how long the motor is going to last. I dont plan to run any more than 15psi on the daily(which is not really daily i have a beater).. 30+ on the strip.. but i want this motor to last me if treated properly.. I could go on about what all im not sure on but ill just keep it simple.. stroke or not to stroke and an explanation of why.

blinx9900

keep the stock stroke. just crank the boost up more if you want more power, the lower the RS ratio the more angle the rod has at TDC, this pushes the piston into the cylinder wall, this is known as side loading. this not only puts excess pressure on the cylinder wall but more importantly the piston rings. so it may lead to premature ring failure or cracked sleeves on stock sleeve motors. thats not to say you cant crack aftermarket sleeves though...

tokesGTR

The biggest problem with strokers isn't side loading, IMHO, it's the fact that the wrist pin is pushed WAY up past the oil ring which can cause oil control issues in a street motor. The TECH43 LS crank/LS length rods builds all seemed to use idle from the minute they were build

blinx9900

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tokesGTR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he TECH43 LS crank/LS length rods builds all seemed to use idle from the minute they were build </TD></TR></TABLE>

wait what? your right about the oil ring part, i was just trying to keep it simple

ShortbusEK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blinx9900 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">keep the stock stroke. just crank the boost up more if you want more power, the lower the RS ratio the more angle the rod has at TDC, this pushes the piston into the cylinder wall, this is known as side loading. this not only puts excess pressure on the cylinder wall but more importantly the piston rings. so it may lead to premature ring failure or cracked sleeves on stock sleeve motors. thats not to say you cant crack aftermarket sleeves though...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats kinda the conclusion I came to after reading around on here.. I was thinking/imagining how the assembly would rotate after being stroked.. I would hope the AEBS sleeves would handle it.. but replacing piston rings on a normal basis is not my idea of fun. so im just gonna keep it simple.. ill have a bit of added displacement from the 84mm bore.. ill just deal with it.. the b16 was in the car when i got it and i just couldnt justify chunking a prefectly good b16 for a b18... but there is just no replacement for displacement. if my pockets were huge I would love to do a k24/k20head combo and boost the **** outta it.. i think once im bored of this engine ill sell it and do it.

blinx9900

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ShortbusEK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but there is just no replacement for displacement. </TD></TR></TABLE>

displacement is overrated 81.5mm b16 over here and im loving it 9000rpm never felt so good 333whp 260wtq the pistons speed of a b16 at 9000 rpm is the same piston speed a gsr has at 8000rpm. rpm and boost are the replacement for displacement!!

you have my ideal setup, keep the power up top in the rpm range where you have more traction.