To Stroke a B16 for Forced Induction.
Is it good to stroke a b16 motor for greater displacement and for forced induction?
I've heard that stroking is not good for forced inductions because of piston speed and what not.
If yall think its a good idea.. let me know. I know the usual route is to bore or change the block to a b18 and bore that.
Thanks for any info!
I've heard that stroking is not good for forced inductions because of piston speed and what not.
If yall think its a good idea.. let me know. I know the usual route is to bore or change the block to a b18 and bore that.
Thanks for any info!
Now let's think about this...
1) A B16a block is physically about 7mm shorter than a B18a/b/c.
2) B16 crank measure 10mm shorter in stroke than the shortest B18 (87.2mm)
Based on those two facts alone, stroking a B16a you're not going to be able to achieve the rod/stroke ratio of a b18 block with similar strokes. Not that rod/stroke is everything...Lisa Kubo's had pretty good success running stroked B16s in her car, however, if you're looking for the highest displacement and the highest rod/ratio, then starting with a b18 block would probably be more productive.
Cosnidering costs however, B16 blocks may be more favorable as it is easy to find complete B16 motors suitable for complete rebuilds for less than 600 dollars while it's considerably more difficult to find B18 shortblocks in that price range.
You can squeeze a 95mm stroke into b18, but try doing that into a B16 and you will start having clearance problems. Big stroke short rods will make sooner in the RPM range, similar stroke with better rod ratio will give you a much higher rpm range. You can see proof of this on http://www.pyr-racing.com in the dyno chart section.
1) A B16a block is physically about 7mm shorter than a B18a/b/c.
2) B16 crank measure 10mm shorter in stroke than the shortest B18 (87.2mm)
Based on those two facts alone, stroking a B16a you're not going to be able to achieve the rod/stroke ratio of a b18 block with similar strokes. Not that rod/stroke is everything...Lisa Kubo's had pretty good success running stroked B16s in her car, however, if you're looking for the highest displacement and the highest rod/ratio, then starting with a b18 block would probably be more productive.
Cosnidering costs however, B16 blocks may be more favorable as it is easy to find complete B16 motors suitable for complete rebuilds for less than 600 dollars while it's considerably more difficult to find B18 shortblocks in that price range.
You can squeeze a 95mm stroke into b18, but try doing that into a B16 and you will start having clearance problems. Big stroke short rods will make sooner in the RPM range, similar stroke with better rod ratio will give you a much higher rpm range. You can see proof of this on http://www.pyr-racing.com in the dyno chart section.
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The lower stroke the better for a street car. (turbo)
Generally. We made 320+ WHP @10 PSi with a B16A motor, stock crank.
That is plenty of power. No need to stroke anything.
B16A is the best turbo street motor hands down in my book. (overall).
Street.
Jeff
Generally. We made 320+ WHP @10 PSi with a B16A motor, stock crank.
That is plenty of power. No need to stroke anything.
B16A is the best turbo street motor hands down in my book. (overall).
Street.
Jeff
IMO, I wouldn't stroke it. Your best bet will be to bore it.
You can get it sleeved with the larger bore.
The extra displacement from the increased bore will keep it lively below 4k rpm.
Increasing stroke is not the only way to get street power.
For high performance engines, car manufacturers are moving toward the bore greater than stroke concept.
Notice the new generation of motors have Equal or Greater bore than stroke, along with great rod/stroke ratio? Nissan is moving in that direction with the 350Z (99.5mm bore & 81.4mm stroke) which took me by surprise. That is more bore than stroke than the RB26DETT (skyline) and its a 3.5 liter!
B16 w/ 85mm: 85mm/77.0mm stroke
RB26DETT: 86mm/73.7mm stroke
VQ35DE: 99.5mm/81.4mm stroke
Dont forget that there is a downside to the increased bore: less space between the cylinders for the headgasket to seal. Check the head & deck surfaces
Modified by Quick 200k Mile Motor at 7:37 PM 5/4/2003
You can get it sleeved with the larger bore.
The extra displacement from the increased bore will keep it lively below 4k rpm.
Increasing stroke is not the only way to get street power.
For high performance engines, car manufacturers are moving toward the bore greater than stroke concept.
Notice the new generation of motors have Equal or Greater bore than stroke, along with great rod/stroke ratio? Nissan is moving in that direction with the 350Z (99.5mm bore & 81.4mm stroke) which took me by surprise. That is more bore than stroke than the RB26DETT (skyline) and its a 3.5 liter!
B16 w/ 85mm: 85mm/77.0mm stroke
RB26DETT: 86mm/73.7mm stroke
VQ35DE: 99.5mm/81.4mm stroke
Dont forget that there is a downside to the increased bore: less space between the cylinders for the headgasket to seal. Check the head & deck surfaces

Modified by Quick 200k Mile Motor at 7:37 PM 5/4/2003
yeah I've got my reservations in stroking the motor.
I'm also trying to tell my friend not to stroke his motor.
Im all about the bore but i won't bore unless i get new sleeves.
I'm also trying to tell my friend not to stroke his motor.
Im all about the bore but i won't bore unless i get new sleeves.
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