''simply BLACK''
Was the cheapest digital dash solution I could find and I like that:
-Can order a cluster mount specifically for the car to use with the dash
-Offers a huge amount of customization
-The fact it runs on a Raspberry means that for me it'll be very user-serviceable.
I also already had to contact their customer support because they sent me the wrong power adapter on accident, and they immediately responded back and sent me the correct one. Counting the cost of everything, an S2K cluster swap probably wouldn't have ended up costing much more, but the Powertune is also a much more modern, modular, and capable solution.
Edit: For the dash, GPS module, cluster, and all the instrument lights (I got like 10-12 or something) I paid $890 including cost of tax and shipping. So that's still probably a couple hundred dollars less than what an S2K cluster swap would cost these days.
-Can order a cluster mount specifically for the car to use with the dash
-Offers a huge amount of customization
-The fact it runs on a Raspberry means that for me it'll be very user-serviceable.
I also already had to contact their customer support because they sent me the wrong power adapter on accident, and they immediately responded back and sent me the correct one. Counting the cost of everything, an S2K cluster swap probably wouldn't have ended up costing much more, but the Powertune is also a much more modern, modular, and capable solution.
Edit: For the dash, GPS module, cluster, and all the instrument lights (I got like 10-12 or something) I paid $890 including cost of tax and shipping. So that's still probably a couple hundred dollars less than what an S2K cluster swap would cost these days.
Everything I listed above, for me. I briefly considered the IQ3 as well.
Powertune is:
Cheaper
Newer
Better looking/Customizable
Can get the integrated cluster mount with instrument lights
Easier to replace or work on if something breaks
It's as shrimple as that.
Powertune is:
Cheaper
Newer
Better looking/Customizable
Can get the integrated cluster mount with instrument lights
Easier to replace or work on if something breaks
It's as shrimple as that.
Lol years from now well see. To be continued...
Yo, how you got that harness tethered behind the seat.
Yo, how you got that harness tethered behind the seat.
Last edited by ls joker; Oct 6, 2022 at 02:37 AM.
I'll post more of my impressions with the Powertune and such once the car is running. The Powertune also has sequential shift lights and GPS, but no data logging - I'll just use the ECU for that.
Not really wanting to cut up my interior just yet.
Man....that looks really appealing
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/NteGkAoaeOw
Really looking forward to getting mine all plugged up, maybe in the next few weeks. I'll make a build thread when my build is finished, lol (yes I know I'm doing that backwards).
Really looking forward to getting mine all plugged up, maybe in the next few weeks. I'll make a build thread when my build is finished, lol (yes I know I'm doing that backwards).
Today was a rough day. Tired to take black for a cruise and test out the steering wheel. Had s300 issues. I think a file got corrupted right as i was uploading an adjusted map. It went solid red. Closed everything out, unplugged the fuse, and deleted the calibration from s300. Put the fuse back in and re uploaded the map. And volia, would start and idle again. Not like about ten minutes prior. One of the correction was for the maximum tps reading. Changed to 101 percent, instead of 98 percent.
For **** and giggles, i clicked read next to it. And the ****** said, 60 percent. So that explains my bucking ive been having prior to adjust the previous map. So ill end up swapping this one out like a couple years ago. Also the s300 would go from connected to not connected. Flashing back and forth from green to red. Thats why i unplugged the fuse in the first place. I have a feeling the harsh vibration have shaken the s300 alittle. So ill be pulling the cover off to push it back on again. Have seen this happen a few times.
And finally.... fucken steering wheel was crooked. Was so irritated when i was finally able to move the thing. And the wheel was crooked lol. The leather feels alittle to silky for me. But will prolly feel good once the wheel warms up
For **** and giggles, i clicked read next to it. And the ****** said, 60 percent. So that explains my bucking ive been having prior to adjust the previous map. So ill end up swapping this one out like a couple years ago. Also the s300 would go from connected to not connected. Flashing back and forth from green to red. Thats why i unplugged the fuse in the first place. I have a feeling the harsh vibration have shaken the s300 alittle. So ill be pulling the cover off to push it back on again. Have seen this happen a few times.
And finally.... fucken steering wheel was crooked. Was so irritated when i was finally able to move the thing. And the wheel was crooked lol. The leather feels alittle to silky for me. But will prolly feel good once the wheel warms up
I've been having connection issues with the S300 too. It's frustrating. The software definitely has some bugs. For instance...I like to have my laptop plugged in for datalogging during a pass at the drag strip. One thing I was originally trying to do in the staging lanes was have the laptop plugged in with SManager pulled up and connected to live data. The idea was that all I'd have to do was press record before the burnout box and I'd start logging. But, I also cut the engine off until I have to roll forward in the staging lanes to keep the engine from heat soaking. If I do that (have SManager connected, then key off and back on), nearly every time it will corrupt the tune on the S300 and I'll have to re-upload before cranking. What I've started doing is having SManager pulled up on the laptop and not plugging the USB cord into the computer until they wave me into the burnout box and I crank for the last time before the pass. This has seemed to work. If I need to check temps in the staging lanes, I'll plug the laptop in, go live with the data, then disconnect the USB cord from the computer before shutting the car off. Truly a pain in the ***.
Last event at the track though it wouldn't connect at all without having some kind of fatal error so I couldn't datalog or change my tune during testing. It finally started connecting out of the blue right before eliminations, but by then I had no data and just made changes to what I think it needed, then got eliminated, lol.
Last event at the track though it wouldn't connect at all without having some kind of fatal error so I couldn't datalog or change my tune during testing. It finally started connecting out of the blue right before eliminations, but by then I had no data and just made changes to what I think it needed, then got eliminated, lol.
I've been having connection issues with the S300 too. It's frustrating. The software definitely has some bugs. For instance...I like to have my laptop plugged in for datalogging during a pass at the drag strip. One thing I was originally trying to do in the staging lanes was have the laptop plugged in with SManager pulled up and connected to live data. The idea was that all I'd have to do was press record before the burnout box and I'd start logging. But, I also cut the engine off until I have to roll forward in the staging lanes to keep the engine from heat soaking. If I do that (have SManager connected, then key off and back on), nearly every time it will corrupt the tune on the S300 and I'll have to re-upload before cranking. What I've started doing is having SManager pulled up on the laptop and not plugging the USB cord into the computer until they wave me into the burnout box and I crank for the last time before the pass. This has seemed to work. If I need to check temps in the staging lanes, I'll plug the laptop in, go live with the data, then disconnect the USB cord from the computer before shutting the car off. Truly a pain in the ***.
Last event at the track though it wouldn't connect at all without having some kind of fatal error so I couldn't datalog or change my tune during testing. It finally started connecting out of the blue right before eliminations, but by then I had no data and just made changes to what I think it needed, then got eliminated, lol.
Last event at the track though it wouldn't connect at all without having some kind of fatal error so I couldn't datalog or change my tune during testing. It finally started connecting out of the blue right before eliminations, but by then I had no data and just made changes to what I think it needed, then got eliminated, lol.
In other news went back out and looked some stuff over. Passenger side tires were low. So that would explain the crooked wheel lol. Mustve been too tired to realize it. And... i already have another new tps. From the last time i had issues. Ordered two that purchase from greg at go autoworks. Just incase they flaked out. Which is did, but lasted about three years.
Current tps was still tight btw on the throttle body. So likely do to be replaced
Took the steering wheel and hub off again. noticed this time that the white elephant ears looking piece actually rotates. So i orginally out the race hub onto that piece crooked thinkin it stationary. The hub is slotted for where the notch goes in at. But the white piece can be rotated so... thats what happened
Last edited by ls joker; Oct 11, 2022 at 02:57 AM.
Ive been leaning towards haltech for a while. Finally just reading up on it. Sounds like elite 1500 is the way to go. Unless the 750 or 1000 is still availiable. Im just not fond of having to rewire my wireworx harness. Especially one that was setup for hondatas COP setup. Sounds like a pain starting over. Or costly ordering a new wireworx for the haltech setup with the coils already integrated.
I did however see that RC Autoworks are making obd1-haltech conversion harnesses. Which makes things easier. But, not for user with hondata COP. As it has a separate harness goin to an external module.
I did however see that RC Autoworks are making obd1-haltech conversion harnesses. Which makes things easier. But, not for user with hondata COP. As it has a separate harness goin to an external module.
Last edited by ls joker; Nov 2, 2022 at 02:18 PM.
Yea haltech you need a new harness and by the time youre done its 2k+
I wana say ive heard aem doesnt do dealer discounts thats why it isnt pushed as hard as other setups.
People want to try fuel tech because its all over youtube. I would never be the Guinea pig of any new product.
I wana say ive heard aem doesnt do dealer discounts thats why it isnt pushed as hard as other setups.
People want to try fuel tech because its all over youtube. I would never be the Guinea pig of any new product.
I may be looking into aem aswell. This is why i spend so much time doing research. It will definitely be happening. Just likely after the oil cooler setup and tires for so. Wanted to do another intake manifold and cams also. And it would only make sense to do that before another tune. Especially on a new ems. But, tires will definitely come first. Unless my s300 takes a ****.
have alot of reading to do
have alot of reading to do
Ive been leaning towards haltech for a while. Finally just reading up on it. Sounds like elite 1500 is the way to go. Unless the 750 or 1000 is still availiable. Im just not fond of having to rewire my wireworx harx. Especially one that was setup for hondatas COP setup. Sounds like a pain starting over. Or costly ordering a new wireworx for the haltech setup with the coils already integrated.
I did however see that RC Autoworks are making obd1-haltech conversion harnesses. Which makes things easier. But, not for user with hondata COP. As it has a separate harness goin to an external module.
I did however see that RC Autoworks are making obd1-haltech conversion harnesses. Which makes things easier. But, not for user with hondata COP. As it has a separate harness goin to an external module.
@Pepe14 - I don't disagree with you on why the FT is so popular or that it's a good idea to let it play out and see how it does, but there are also some fast cars running it. Time will tell.








