The other day I decided to test fit my Precision SC34 (T3/T04E .63 A/R 57trim) to my spare B18C1 block with my Revhard manifold. Through my research I had learned that no cutting was nessecary with this turbo on a B18 block using a Revhard/Drag/Inline pro manifold. When I fit everything up on my block I found there was zero clearance between the block webbing and the turbo. However the manifold was flush against the block and should not leak.

Should I notch the block for a little bit of clearance or is it ok to run it like this with no clearnance? Its not that big of a deal if I have to notch it but Id prefer not to mess up my block if I dont have to.








As you can see its physcally touching the block, and its clocked to its optimal position.



Arturbo's thread for reference
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=402894

 

When you put a gasket between the manifold and head, won't that push it out a few mm's?

 

maybe 1mm or less. Would heat expansion require more clearance?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would heat expansion require more clearance?</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is the concern i was going to raise. personally, i'd notch it. the metal gasket is not going to give you much leeway. i think its less than 1mm...like ~0.5mm thick


edit - i thought this was going to be a forsale thread with some cheap prices on sc34s.

 

We had to shave the b18c block for our RevHard/Sc34 install.

 

Thanks for the replies.

Ryan did you have to notch the block to get it to fit or was it recommended?

As it stands now it fits as is and the exhaust gasket will give it .5mm more clearance. Do I have to notch it? Is .5mm ~1.0mm going to be enough clearance? How much does this stuff expand/vibrate?


Modified by Muckman at 5:45 PM 12/28/2003

 

That wasnt too bad. We only had to shave off maybe 1/8" and then we polished it smooth.

 

Safety first, coolness second!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the replies.

Ryan did you have to notch the block to get it to fit or was it recommended?

As it stands now it fits as is and the exhaust gasket will give it .5mm more clearance. Do I have to notch it? Is .5mm ~1.0mm going to be enough clearance? How much does this stuff expand/vibrate?
</TD></TR></TABLE>


To be completly honest, we didn't even try a test fit. We decided we'll notch the fvck out of it just in case.

 

Dremel Tool Rox

 

another option is to get another flange for up where the mani seals against the block. This would make the turbo sit slightly farther out proving clearance, only problem is that you have to take out mani studs and get ones that are longer.

OR, you could also have a machine shop make a flange for you that goes between mani and turbo, would this create more clearance?

I opted to just grind a little away.

 

it was tight... but with some work it became loose

i like it

 

most people have to notch the block

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by delpoop! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">most people have to notch the block </TD></TR></TABLE>

yea, make sure you have plenty of room... you wouldnt think it move, but it will...

 

theres about 1/8" clearance at the closest point between the block webbing and the turbo as you can see from my picture. Is 1/8" enough?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">theres about 1/8" clearance at the closest point between the block webbing and the turbo as you can see from my picture. Is 1/8" enough?</TD></TR></TABLE>

bump because id like to know too.

 

make sure you clock the center section of the turbo too, so the drain is facing down