Okay, I am in desperate need of some help. I have been reading and reading and I cant find anything to help me out. I just want the car to run smooth up to 8psi.
I'll list my setup then tell ya'll my problem.
I have an 88 civic hatch with a D16y8 from a 96 w/ a P28 ECU, unchipped. I'm running a Garrett T28 turbo, Deltagate WG, TurboXS BOV, 450 DSM injectors, Walbrough 550lph pump, stock MAP, Greddy Profec boost control, Greddy Full Auto timer, APEX V-AFC set at -40% across the board, 71%-72% crossover, VTEC at 4400, AEM adj FPR at 40 psi idle, stock O2, intercooled, adj timing advanced 6 degrees i think, Bullfrog cam, Moroso catch can set up via straight thru PCV.

The car is running unbelievably RICH, even if i turn the fuel pressure way down. It also runs very rough as I slowly increase/hold the RPMs (shakes a lot!) I have adjusted the correction factor down to try and lean it out to no avail. I am gonna put a MSD6BTM on to try and help the situation, but I am at a complete loss as to why this thing is running so rich! Could I have a bad O2 sensor? I have in the past got an O2 CEL but it has gone away and hasnt come back after ECU reset. Please, any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

 

dude get it tunned

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by si0385. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude get it tunned
</TD></TR></TABLE>



<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by themaskdmumbler &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">adj timing advanced 6 degrees i think</TD></TR></TABLE>

advanced timing for turbo?? wow, i wonder how long ur motor is gunna last with that set-up, get a real tune and that will fix ur problem

 

I would get it tuned if there were a place anywhere near here to get it tuned. So should I set my timing back to zero or should I retard some or what?

 

drive to wisconsin... i'll do it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by themaskdmumbler &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would get it tuned if there were a place anywhere near here to get it tuned. So should I set my timing back to zero or should I retard some or what?</TD></TR></TABLE>

when under boost, u wanna safely run with timing retarded. if you rele have that timing advanced, i would taking it back to zero before you shoot a rod or piston into your oil pan.

if you do some research about timing and turbo, you will be told to retard timing. people only advance timing when they have an all motor.

 

Okay, I was told wrong, my timing is retarded by either 2 or 4 degrees, depending on how many degrees each timing line represents on a set of AEM adj. cam gears ??? There are 5 marks of advance and 5 marks of retard and all of AEMs cam gears on their site adjust 10 degrees, so I am assuming I am adjusted 4 degrees retard...Should i set it to zero??? and BTW the fuel pump is a 255lph, the 550lph was a type-o.

 

try taking the timing back to stock, if your timing is retarded too much then ur car will run real slow.

consider a dyno tune tho

 

Okay, i will try that tomorrow (well, later today i guess LoL). You think that could be making it run too rich though?! I wanna get it tuned, i really think it needs it. I think there is a frontwheel dyno in a town about 70 miles from here, but would just anybody with a dyno be able to get me tuned up with the VAFC and all, or do i need a specialized place that deals with forced induction??? I am also gonna install the MSD6 with the boost timing master. I can set it to retard 1-3 degrees per psi up to 15 degrees. Any advice on where I should set it as far as 1,2, or 3 degrees per psi???

 

what makes you think the car is actually running rich?? do you have a wideband??

 

I assume its running rich because it wreaks horribly of gas when its running and puts out much excess exhaust gas, there are also a lot of carbon deposits in the exhaust.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by themaskdmumbler &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I assume its running rich because it wreaks horribly of gas when its running and puts out much excess exhaust gas, there are also a lot of carbon deposits in the exhaust.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well the excess exhaust gas, is it black smoke?? the carbon deposits in the exhuast isnt healthy either. perform a compression test see what kind of numbers you get. better yet, do a leak down test because u might have some problems with ur rings or ringlands. while ur at it, take a look at ur spark plugs and identify what condition it appears to be. if they have oil on them, ur ringlands/rings are blown. if its smoke black, then yes you are running rich.

 

The excess exhaust is white smoke. I ran it and pulled the plugs (which are Bosch Platinum +2) and they don't appear to have oil on them, they do however appear to have much gas on them and significant carbon deposit. I'll get a compression and leakdown test taken care of ASAP and post those results.

 

well you might wanna get some colder plugs too.. i think the platinum are too hot.

 

What plugs would you recommend? How do I know whether a plug runs hotter or colder? Why is it better to run a colder plug on a turbo application?

 

I'd reccomend going to moates.net and getting the uber1 chipset, datalogging cable, and burn1 and doing some self-tuning, or even get the uber1 chipping stuff, chip your ecu and have someone make you a basemap until you can get it tuned if there's a crome tuner in your area.

If there are no crome tuners in your area you might have to look into hondata.

I'm not famaliar w/ the V-AFC. Is that a Vacuum-AFC? What are you using the AFC/MAP hack so your ECU doesn't see boost?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by themaskdmumbler &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The excess exhaust is white smoke. I ran it and pulled the plugs (which are Bosch Platinum +2) and they don't appear to have oil on them, they do however appear to have much gas on them and significant carbon deposit. I'll get a compression and leakdown test taken care of ASAP and post those results.</TD></TR></TABLE>

white smoke could mean a possibly blown headgasket, check ur coolant levels. if ur coolant is burning then u have a blown headgasket.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by themaskdmumbler &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What plugs would you recommend? How do I know whether a plug runs hotter or colder? Why is it better to run a colder plug on a turbo application?</TD></TR></TABLE>

get NGK BKR7E plugs