<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CodyC142 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> While I have some play money should I sleeve it on the safe side, incase the addiction grows to strong to stop at 300whp?

Also, what should I do as far as clutch / FLywheel set up. I cant imagine the stock clutch will hold up to much abuse at 300whp. I figure I might as well start shopping before that problem ever comes up. Any thoughts / suggestions are more than welcomed.

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Lol.. We are close to 500hp on stock sleeves. Everyone told me it would not last 15 minutes. It's lasted me 2 years so far. My car is a track car and does not see the street much though. If driven as a daily, I wouldnt go anymore than 375hp on stock sleeves. Besides, Anything more than that is not really needed on the streets anyway. We are running an Action 2md clutch with no problems at all..

 

Awsome info Guys!

What do you guys think about lightining the crank a little. Will the loss of wate effect the longevity of the bearings? One more question for now. A block guard is really up in the air right now. I really need to know what the pros and cons are of using one. I understand the main goal of a blockguard. But what are some of the things most people don't understand about block guards? I realize that there is a heat issue but what excatly is the issue? How can the issue be resolved and still run a guard?

Thanks for all of your help guys!

 

Well the issues really can't be resolved. You either put it at the very top of the sleeve and reduce cooling capacity, or put it lower/drill more holes in it and severely reduce its effectiveness. I've also seen not just block-guarded sleeves CRACK, but I've also seen it happen on FILLED blocks (filled 100% with aluminum epoxy). Cracks will want to start at the top of the sleeve, which is where it heats up the most too. W/o the block guard at the top, its basicly useless.

The bearings won't be harmed by a lighter crank, unless you go crazy with it. Crazy would entail a 5lb flywheel, 3-puck double-diaphragm 'stage3+' clutch or dual-plate CF clutch, and lightened crank pulley.

If you're really woried about those 2 issues, I'd suggest you not go with a D-series. You can build/boost a B18B for about the same price, but get another 30-60whp 'safely' on the stock sleeves due to displacement, and get an ATI harmonic dampener. IMO D16's are most effective when you don't pour your life savings into them.

 

what is a sc61

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wompmaster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is a sc61</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its a dishwasher!!

 

1.NO

2.NO

3.OBX lsd but make sure to rebuild it prior to install https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1714724
that and new tranny fluid and you should be good to go the ex tranny is solid

4.Yes

5.pick up the victor X by Edelbrock if your looking for mid range or skunk 2 pro series if you looking for better top end.

.20 is good for your DD. as was mentioned you don't want to go to big

you can do anything you want to do
however sleeving is NOT required

clutch= action 2md most definitely they are the ****. that is what I'm running and it was suggested to me by rota... trust that guy he knows his ****

as far as flywheel stay stock or not to far off no lighter than 10 lb's for my suggestion
by reducing the mass you will have to rev it to start off. I run a 10 lb fly with no problems. however people look at me crazy sometimes whenever I'm trying to start off on a hill or something like that

from my research and i would like to stress that it is only research so don't flame
block guards create hot spots on the sleeves
this causes them to overheat and damage the rings in most cases
on a daily driver where you might have that...
IMHO that would be that would cause a lot of pressure on you entire cooling system
a block guard definitely won't help your cooling in fact it will hurt it. so just say no

https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch

Hope that this helps

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1958899
another 300whp build asking about block guard

http://forums.evans-tuning.com/viewtopic.php?t=389

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1495885

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1260938

 

95jeremie is the dude with all the answers. Thanks bro that really cleared some things up for me. I think that this build will be cheaper than we had anticipated. thanks again for all of your help guys. Im sure I will have some more questions in the near future!