wernhersey

I am going to be helping my buddy build his d16z6 in a few months and we need to be pointed in the right direction. He wants 300whp daily driver and it must be very reliable.
We are both fairly new to the turbo scene and don't want to screw this up. I have done some research and learned some things about the z6 but I am looking for someone to give us a firm list to stand on so we can begin shopping. He is looking at dumping no more than like $2,800 into this motor and again he wants 300whp. Can you guys just throw some info, name, and maybe some numbers at me to get me started. Also I need to know where to get the block resleeved and who does the best job on the East coast.

I realize that this is a very broad topic but just throw any info at me that you think may help. Thanks Guys!

Joseph Davis

Congrats, you just picked the cheapest four cylinder engine on the planet to make a reliable 300 whp on.

TT rods, get some Vitara pistons from FJT, stock Y8 headgasket ($22), ARP head studs, and don't waste money on sleeving the block. The only thing particular about D16 is they are small bore and require a good tuner who knows their way around them - I'm not up to snuff on who's who in the NE as the only one I've ever met is xenocron in Jersey, and he might be a bit out of your driving range.

PS - be careful of mixing and matching D-series parts during the build, the #1 problem I see with D16 builds is people blindly swapping D15, D15Z1, D16A6, D16Y8, etc parts between the engines thinking since it bolts on it must work correctly, and it ends up being a mechanical or ignition timing witch hunt aka huge PITA. Even engines that are regarded to have very similar bottom ends aren't interchangeable - A6 vs Z6, for example, have their timing marks slightly off with respect to each other on crank pulley and lower timing cover; you get a combo of A6 and Z6 parts there and you are 2-3 degrees crank timing off if you use those marks for ANYTHING. It's such a universal problem the engine you are building might already have incorrect parts on it.

edit: stuff like D16 cranks are universal, and you can get different head/block combos working no problem, but be very careful of anything that bolts on and has any timing markings.

Panda Eg6

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Congrats, you just picked the cheapest four cylinder engine on the planet to make a reliable 300 whp on.

TT rods, get some Vitara pistons from FJT, stock Y8 headgasket ($22), ARP head studs, and don't waste money on sleeving the block. The only thing particular about D16 is they are small bore and require a good tuner who knows their way around them - I'm not up to snuff on who's who in the NE as the only one I've ever met is xenocron in Jersey, and he might be a bit out of your driving range.

PS - be careful of mixing and matching D-series parts during the build, the #1 problem I see with D16 builds is people blindly swapping D15, D15Z1, D16A6, D16Y8, etc parts between the engines thinking since it bolts on it must work correctly, and it ends up being a mechanical or ignition timing witch hunt aka huge PITA. Even engines that are regarded to have very similar bottom ends aren't interchangeable - A6 vs Z6, for example, have their timing marks slightly off with respect to each other on crank pulley and lower timing cover; you get a combo of A6 and Z6 parts there and you are 2-3 degrees crank timing off if you use those marks for ANYTHING. It's such a universal problem the engine you are building might already have incorrect parts on it.

edit: stuff like D16 cranks are universal, and you can get different head/block combos working no problem, but be very careful of anything that bolts on and has any timing markings. </TD></TR></TABLE>

great info

Just dont go cheap on the tune, it makes a world of difference

wernhersey

This is great. This is excatly what I am looking for. More info (and/or) first hand experince. I am aware of a few of the issue you adressed and greatly apreciate your input. Feel free to hit me with any other info. Thanks guys! I can use all the help I can get!

wernhersey

Bump for more help!!!

NonovUrbizniz

Rods/Pistons/rings/bearings
Fuel pump/injectors/management
Manifold/DP/Turbo/Oil (+maybe coolant)Plumbing
Charge pipes/Intercooler/map sensor (or map fix)

Anything else (and some would say the intercooler too) are optional.

You can build it different ways though... high efficiency that has 300hp but mostly top end or you can go with a more restrictive exhuast AR for the turbo and have power by 3-4k but is getting stressed at 6500-8k.

If he has a STOCK exhaust he should probobly upgrade to 2.5" hi flo cat would prob. be good too.

I started out thinking of doing a budget build (and still am not going NUTS) but it adds up fast... I was hoping to top out at 2500 but I'm 1k over that already and I still have another 600 for building the engine and whatever comes up during the mock up stage... so I'm probobly looking at total of 4500 (I do have some parts I can sell off that I ended up buying twice due to poor planning .)

DEFINATELY plan out what you want and REALLY go over it 3 or 4 times making sure you're buying what you'll end up needing before purcahsing.

I went nuts and ordered DSM's and a turbo w/o really planning through... for my goals both fell short so I've now put them up for sale and purchased better parts for my goals...

PLAN PLAN PLAN.

mx621

http://forums.evans-tuning.com...=3959

http://forums.evans-tuning.com...=2860

http://forums.evans-tuning.com...=4050

i too have been looking into the single cam possibilities!

wernhersey

Wow. I am really learning alot. I am really interested in other peoples builds and what worked good and what failed. This is really helping me a ton. I have researched on block guards for d-series and I have found things 50/50. Either people love them or hate them. Can someone clarify what the cons are with a block guard. I realize there is a heat problem. But what excatly? Also previously in this post someone told me not to bother having the z6 sleeved. Why? What are the pros and cons to this? Thanks guys keep the info flowing!!!

Only1cam

I have a D16Z6 build with approx. 300whp, used to be daily driven every day. Setup was ARP studs, GE sleeved block (not necessary), JE pistons, Eagle Rods, Ebay T3/T4 and mani, 450cc injectors and chipped tune.

Mine ran great, those motors have been known to hit 30psi safely on stock sleeves so that shouldnt be an issue. Biggest thing with a D series turbo build because the motor doesnt have much going for it would be turbo choice and manifold. Spend money on those 2 and youll easily attain your power goal with keeping in your budget.

Newt Dog

You can build a 300hp d16z6 with rods, pistons, head studs and a t3/t4 50 trim. Find a good tuner!! We are running 34 psi with a sc61 making 460hp+ on stock sleeves! So dont waste your money on sleeves if 300hp is all you want.

quicksilver1689

yeah the 400whp+ build has blown up, vitaras, eagles, 50 or 57 trim t3/t04e .63 is usually the turbo of choice, zex 59300 and your ready to rock. Timing needs of these motors is different than b-series people are used to so detionation/headlift/broken ringlands/ect are pretty common. Also if ur budget can swing it go for real forged pistons like wiseco's.

Newt Dog

How did it blow up and what failed?

quicksilver1689

i meant blown up, like popular lol

97_coupe

You also might want to upgrade the valvetrain so you can go into higher RPM's and have a real nice powerband. Its not needed but it would be more fun.

dr_latino999

I'm probably one of the few who is going overboard D wise, I have a sleeved 78mm setup in the works. It's all in the tune in keeping it alive

Joseph Davis

Got a thread on that i can subscribe to? Big bore D-series would be cool, IMO.

Newt Dog

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Got a thread on that i can subscribe to? Big bore D-series would be cool, IMO.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would also like to see this.. I think Rota was 76 or 77mm.

willyboyK20

i'm enjoying my stock d for now. Only rocking a new headgasket and arp headstuds

I'm about to get a 3bar and see how the 50 trim acts at 13-14psi

I love these little *****

dr_latino999

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Got a thread on that i can subscribe to? Big bore D-series would be cool, IMO.</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Newt Dog &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I would also like to see this.. I think Rota was 76 or 77mm. </TD></TR></TABLE> I've gone slacker on keeping it up to date, but in the next couple weeks I should have a slew of new information - https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1902088

wernhersey

This is helping big time! I just have a few more questions.

What are the pros and cons to re-sleeving the z6?

The motor has about 200k on it and the last 80k were at about 6k rpm's. Should we have it re-sleeved with stock sleeves?

Is there any way to put equal length cv axles in it, like the b-series? I am concerned about the amount of torque steer with this much power.

What would you guys suggest we do with the tranny? We a stock ex hold up to these numbers?

What intake manifold would be the best performing, without spending crazy money?

I'm sure I will dig up a few more questions but this will keep me going for now. I totally appreciate everything you guys are doing here. Plz keep up the good info!

trickeng

No resleeve needed. Just get oversize pistons and blockguard. Some may not like blockguards but if there properly installed, they can add that little extra support.

We have done a bunch of D-series builds well over 300hp so if you need a reputable machinest and/or tuning just hit me up.

If I was to build a Dseries car myself I'd use the Vitara pistons, Eagle rods, STR block guard, ACL/Clevite bearings (properly spec'ed of course), Super Tech (or comparable) SS valve, Super Tech (or comparable) springs/retainer if using a big cam and run a (don't laugh or hate) Gude ported head/ported intake/ported TB/Cam. All this is fairly cheap and coupled with a nicely designed long tube turbo manifold and t3/t4 turbo you could easily see a reliable 300-325whp around 10-15lbs.

wernhersey

Awsome reply guy! This is what I am looking for. What would you suggest for a bore. The cylinders are in running condition so should I go with a .20 or should I just go as much as possible?

trickeng

never go as big as possible becasue if you melt a piston you'll have to sleeve or buy a new block.

.20(.5mm) over for now.

quicksilver1689

yeah i wouldnt personally go over 76mm on stock sleeves, more meat the better IMO. 75.5mm pistons are nice cuz you can "tailor" your specific piston/wall clearance. Alot of those 75mm vitaras with just a hone on the cylinder walls run pretty "loose". Maybe you could look into water/meth injection. I want to do that on my d build

CodyC142

This will eventually turn into a real build. Right now wern and I have just been making a parts list.

Ive never driven a turbo car.. but I hear its addicting as hell. This is where fear comes in. Id like to start around 250whp and then slowly turn up the boost as the addiction becomes stronger. Id *like* to contain the addiction close to ~300whp. Not saying this will happen or not. But this is will be 100% DD. I need it to be reliable enough to hop on the interstate and drive 14 hours home if need be.

While I have some play money should I sleeve it on the safe side, incase the addiction grows to strong to stop at 300whp?

Also, what should I do as far as clutch / FLywheel set up. I cant imagine the stock clutch will hold up to much abuse at 300whp. I figure I might as well start shopping before that problem ever comes up. Any thoughts / suggestions are more than welcomed.

Im sure more questions will arise. Thanks In advance, and thanks for all of the help so far. Its GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks Again


Modified by CodyC142 at 12:53 PM 1/23/2008