MrToasty

Okay, here's the specs...
EK civic with built LS-Vtec with drag turbo kit, intercooled, 16 psi, 350whp, tuned at Slowmotionmotorsports in Columbus Ohio.
C&R half Radiator, 11" slimline fan jumped to be ALWAYS on, waterwetter, 180 degree thermostat.

The engine warms up normally and performs great! Hondata says the engine runs at 188-192 degrees on the freeway with the HEAT on, on a 75 degree day. Driving under 35mph or just letting it idle, it will approach 215! (But only if the heat is off). It stays in better temperatures on cooler days, especially when the sun is not out.


Cliff notes - Heater control directly affects engine temp by approx 10-15 degrees. Guys at slowmotion told me that theres a possibility that since my engine runs hotter than normal but does not exceed critical temperatures that i may have a crack in my sleeve, (worst case).

any ideas?

steven_highet

So what exactly do you want to know?

Yes your enegine temps are abit on the high side not by alot but if they stay at that level consistantly and do not increase anymore then you dont really have a problem. You could work on things that would bring your consistant engine temp range down.

MrToasty

What i want to know, is what should i do to bring the temps down to a consistant 180ish? When it's 80 degrees outside i really don't like having my heater on full blast just to keep the temperature down under 215, ya know?

Would a 160 degree thermostat help?

-Mike

Scheizty

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MrToasty &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would a 160 degree thermostat help?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If your current thermostat isn't kicking the temps down, setting it at a lower temp isn't going to change anything. At 215 degrees, your thermostat is going to be all the way open no matter what thermostat you have.

Topdawgg

mine does the same thing. I just kinda live with it.. keep the windows down and cruise with the heat turned on a bit.
I havent really figured out a way to fix it.

legomytego

yea but you shouldent have to do that dont band ad it fix i dont ride like that in my car start with the smallest thing and go from there there are a few threads floating around with good ideas to help

ahobbs

this is what i did i never overheated but was annoyed by the temps. The keys are

coolant system bleed
good fan with a shroud......not the cheapies, they dont work
air low to the radiator.
Sounds like yours is a fan issue
and i would use the OEM thermostat

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2370133

stockb18c

^ agree get a fan shroud it will help alot

dpetro1

seems like investing in a high quality fan is the best idea. an 11" no namer is probably rated around 1000cfm at best. grab a spal 13" 1700 cfm fan or one of the permacool fans (i think the 12" is rated at 1650 cfm). a shroud will obviously help as well.

not only does it help at idle, it will create a low pressure area behind the rad to promote airflow through the rad at higher speeds as well.

LA_HONDAS

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dpetro1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">seems like investing in a high quality fan is the best idea. an 11" no namer is probably rated around 1000cfm at best. grab a spal 13" 1700 cfm fan or one of the permacool fans (i think the 12" is rated at 1650 cfm). a shroud will obviously help as well.

not only does it help at idle, it will create a low pressure area behind the rad to promote airflow through the rad at higher speeds as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

summit racing got that fan rated at 3000cfm is that the right info

dpetro1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LA_HONDAS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

summit racing got that fan rated at 3000cfm is that the right info
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i saw that. must be incorrect. the permacool site has it listed at 1650. seems like 1600-1700 is the max for 12-13" fans
http://www.perma-cool.com/Catalog/Cat_page16.html

LA_HONDAS

Oh well my POS fan works just fine

it stay around 190-192 if i jump it off by the relay

MrToasty

I really don't have much room for a fan. My turbo intake is too close, and i can't do much about it.

So you think switching out the thermostat for a 160 degree one would do no good?

boostismycrack

If you have the fan that came with the c&r its rated at 870 cfm Get the spal 13" rated for 1710cfm and make it fit even if you have to modify your turbo intake. I have a gsr in an eg hatch with a c&r radiator, spal 1710 fan, ramhorn manifold, gt35r with S cover, turbo intake, 3" downpipe and a/c. Its a tight fit, but it fits if you want it to...

MrToasty

Okay, i'll upgrade the fan, but i don't understand why the car wants to get so hot. Would any turbo honda overheat if it didn't have a fan? Cause my fan (probably wimpy) is on all the time and it still seems like it heats up faster than it should.

MrToasty

One other thing, before i buy a new fan...

Could my C R Radiator (half size) be the culprit? It seems like going for the full Integra size radiator would offer better cooling. Should i sell my half sized and get the full?

It doesn't seem right that my car gets above 200 degrees just cruising at whatever speed on a 75 degree day WITH my fan on. I have no shroud... i think i'll start there. And a spal 1700 cfm fan.

-Mike

MrToasty

Also... where the heck can you get a shroud for these things? Just make it yourself out of cardboard or something?

legomytego

can you fit a full size ? i would have went with that from the start unless you have a civic and it came with with one can you post a pic of your engine bay for us
(edit i see you have a civic with the drag kit you should be able to fit a full size but that is not the issue since a good amount of people have went from a full to a half with no cooling issues get the new fan maybe bleed the system again then tell us whats up )