lvf03

just finnished boosting b20vtec running 8 pound of boost. my problem is that when driving in the city temperature runs normal but when i get onto the highway the temp. starts to rise goes to about 3/4. what do you guys think it could be i was thinking maybe my head gasket.thanks for the help

reignofchaos

i don't know about the crv swap thing... but i'm at 7.5psi or so and i don't over heat and i boost like hell in highway or city...

i think people who overheat with boost are sometimes idiots... not you i hope but here's the reasons why

1. Idiots boost for over 15 seconds.. probably using 4th gear to redline then 5th gear to speed limiter...

2. huge *** intercooler that covers the WHOLE radiator for low psi setup like 7psi or 8psi...

3. don't upgrade radiator if boosting 12psi or up

99integralsturbo

what do you mean boosting over 15 seconds? that shouldnt make you overheat

vtec.dc2

hows your coolant level?

lvf03

well for starters i never boosted for more than 15 seconds engine is still not broken into just finished project and ran into this problem. i plan on running 13psi once breakin is done .tunning with hondata.still got stock rad,i/c is a spearco 30"l x 3"t x 6"h. for the coolant level it seems fine only thing is that i get air bubbles in it. bleed it once and the bubbles came back another time

blueturboteg

i had an overheating problem with my stock radiator at 7 psi with my setup. I bought a nice radiator and no problems. As far as the 15 second thing i boosted for 15 minutes on the highway and my gauge did not move.

VTC_CiViC

So it overheats on the highway, but not in city driving???

Now that's unusual....

highmilehatch

What kind of radiator are you using?

Andrea

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by reignofchaos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i don't know about the crv swap thing... but i'm at 7.5psi or so and i don't over heat and i boost like hell in highway or city...

i think people who overheat with boost are sometimes idiots... not you i hope but here's the reasons why

1. Idiots boost for over 15 seconds.. probably using 4th gear to redline then 5th gear to speed limiter...

2. huge *** intercooler that covers the WHOLE radiator for low psi setup like 7psi or 8psi...

3. don't upgrade radiator if boosting 12psi or up

</TD></TR></TABLE>

1. Boosting for more than 15 seconds in 4th or 5th gear places the highest thermal loading on the engine, thereby increasing the combustion temperature. If the stock/OEM system is working properly the increased thermal loading on the engine can easily provide adequate heat transfer to keep the engine at normal operating temperature.

2. Most, if not all, heat exchangers (intercoolers) are of tube and fin construction. Besides providing better heat transfer properties, the tube and fin construction can allow for maximum air flow over the engine's radiator surface. Whether the car is static or dynamically moving, the ambient air can still surround the radiator core even with the entire bumper filled with an intercooler. If you are running a decently sized t3/t4oe turbo at 7-8psi range you are not going to be in the efficiency range. Being outside of the efficiency range means you will be running higher outlet temperatures from the compressor, the ONLY thing cooling down the intake charge is the intercooler. A large, efficient core will drop the temperture to near ambient. This will thus increase hp with a psi level not optimal for compressor outlet temperatures, since the density of the air will be increased.

3. You contradict yourself in saying that not to upgrade the radiator at higher psi levels. The cylinder pressure in the engine increases linearly with boost pressure, along with cylinder temperature. If you're claiming that extended passes in 4th and 5th gear will cause the engine to overheat, the increase in cylinder pressure, by your terms, should cause the engine to overheat.

lvf03 your overheating problem could be caused by one of the following:

1. cooling system not up to full fluid level
2. headbolts/headstuds could be loosening
3. crack at the bottom of the sleeve
4. tear in the headgasket


Modified by 50trim EK at 5:42 PM 9/12/2003


Modified by 50trim EK at 5:43 PM 9/12/2003

lvf03

i'am using the stock 99 civic si half rad. i can drive around town all day with no problems as long as i don't push it, once i get on the highway and want to go all out it heats up in a couple of seconds.also can a badly designed header{custom} cause it to overheat when pushed

92HB_HB

noticed the same thing w/ my car today as well.. was on the hwy just coming back from lunch (15 min ride) doing about 70-75, wasn't even boosting, just cruising... when i was nearing my exit, i noticed the needle was at 9 am.. i was like whoa, so i cranked up the heat to help aid in the cooling...

had the same problem a couple yrs ago w/ a stock ls in my hatch.. turned out my stock skinny cx radiator wasn't up to par for the engine, so i upgraged to a teg radiator...

bottom line, if you're overheating while cruising on the hway, most likely, your radiator needs to be looked at and possibly replaced... I"m now looking into a PWR radiator... the price is right and affordable...

BTW, anyone have experience with PWR radiators and what's your opinion on them, b4 i buy one??