beginmyhonda

z6 block bored and honed 75.5mm
vitara 75.5mm pistons
eagle rods

i read that you have to notch block and girdle because it was hitting on it

that is true for my girdle but it doesnt seem to hit my cylinder wall so im confused if i still have to or not

feedback be great
thanks

bigsnorlax

If it isnt hitting the block, you have clearance, and everything is installed correctly.... then just dont notch it?

beginmyhonda

i spin the cranshaft and the rods are not hitting my cylinder wall
they were hitting my girdle but i took care of that though
as far as i have understand from people have notch their block because there was no clearance but i dont have an inssued?
i did installed it correctly too

Gunmetal_B20_Hatch

iTrader: (9)

Eagle came out with a revised version that only requires you to notch the girdle. Older styles require notching both girdle and block.

If it hits, notch it. If not, dont worry about it.

owneyboy

iTrader: (1)

you only have to notch block with (EAGLE'S) h-beams the rod bolts will clear girdle assuming they are 3/8's arp 2000's or/ arps 8740...

beginmyhonda

really? i didnt know that

beginmyhonda

well i have to notch my girdle though because it wont clear through
i have 3/8 ARP rod bolt and eagle rods

beginmyhonda

well i just researched that there are two different ones


first one doesnt say anything about block notch required
http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/Mer...Category_Code=

second one here says its required
http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/Mer...Category_Code=

im gonna have to go check it in the morning lol

blackeg

i had to notch my girdle much more than i had to notch the block.

i opened everything up until i had a little more than 1/8 inch clearance with everything torqued down and rotating

scottdh20

most likely becaus eyou bored your block out.....that removed some material.....they barely touch on a stock bore size....but i would make sure there is plently of clearence to account for heat expantion

i would still notch it personally

post pics

beginmyhonda

what size was your cylinder wall?
did u notch it because it was hitting

yea i believed most people here are talking about the standard 75mm where they had to notch the block

its so hard to see how much clearance the rods have between the cylinder walls

welfarepc

ive never heard of eagle rods that you didnt have to notch to use, but meh, who knows!

every D series ive ever put forged rods in ive had to notch, EXCEPT the D15B2 with custom FJT D15b2 vitara rods. those were straight drop in.

beginmyhonda

well my part number is CRS5394H3D

blackeg

my bore was 75.5mm with my vitaras. i had the ptw set at .0035, which is why i went to the .020 overbore. the motor ran great, and had around 13k miles on it (i sold the car to a local kid) when it was taken out because it wasnt a b series....

beginmyhonda

did u had to notch the block?

slywfbpsi

The D15B vtec FJT rods don't require notching as well.

welfarepc

well ive yet to install those so ill let those who have speak on it.

beginmyhonda

thats what im saying
people who installed it are saying the block needs to be notched and not girdle
some say just the block and the girdle will clear

but for me
i dont have to notch the block but i did for the girdle

TylerB

With FJ rods I had to notch the block. The girdle had plenty of clearance.

welfarepc

is it possible for you to post up some pictures? id like to see.

beginmyhonda

sorry i already put motor back in but even with pictures its hard to get an angle where the rods pass by the cylinder wall anyways lol
but just get the idea that if u rotate crankshaft and it doesnt hit i believe you are fine( dont quote me on that XD)
also check the part number i forgot what it is i put it down on this post just scroll through it
that rod should cleared
also my block was 75.5mm i dont know how it is with 75mm stock though

welfarepc

.5mm wont make a difference.

the notches go 1/4" deep