Urugly

Sup guys I need some tech advice. Here is what happened to my car. Dyno tuned car as I have stated in old posts, then motor went bye bye on only 11 lbs of boost on the way home. Got motor rebuilt and now the following things happened:

1. My tuner went to put a base line map so I can run car and break in motor before I dyno tune and the inside of my ECU stinks like something burned. We found something that burned like a resistor or something. What could have caused that?

2. So he said check my IAT (Intake Air Temperature sensor-located in the intake manifold) and that was burned on the tip like a crispy kreme. He is not sure what causes that too. Could that be a reason my motor blew the first time?

3. Then when pressurized, oil starts coming out of my GT3076R turbo in the center section. Turbo was brand new and probably had 50 miles on it. Why is it leaking? Checked oil return and water line and it looks good and tight. NO kinks. Could I have a blown turbo already? Is that possible?

I will try and get pictures up by tomorrow to show you where the leak is coming from?

Anyone have a spare P28 chipped for hondata that they could sell me. I just want my darn car to run so I can drive it again. There is creatures living in that car since it doesn't move much lately.

Any suggestions would be nice. Here is my current setup BTW:

B16 84mm
CP pistons 9:1
Eagle Rods
Eagle Crank B18 (Stroked 2.0L)
Top is all Supertech
Type R cams
Sleeved Golden Eagle
Walbro 255
Hondata S200B

Thanks.

***Pictures below!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Modified by Urugly at 10:54 PM 8/8/2007


Modified by Urugly at 1:53 AM 8/11/2007


Modified by Urugly at 1:54 AM 8/11/2007

0xenocron

#1 and #2 are both probably because you hooked up a 12 volt 2 pin connector (like for the PCS or IACV) to your IAT sensor (5v sensor). This caused your temp sensor to melt and your ECU to burn out.

SIXTY-1HATCH

money.......thats what i was goin to say the conn. are identical
just search under p28 there is a guy that sells them socketed already for 150.00 shipped to your door.

Urugly

Is that something that was done when they chipped my ECU at the time? the little resistor or chip that blew out was on the opposite side of where the chip you burn was. I thought that was the only thing they changed out in the ECU was where the burned chip went.

Correct me if I'm wrong.

Could that have caused my car to do something wrong while driving and therefore causing it to go lean or whatever and blow?

0project dc2

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Urugly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is that something that was done when they chipped my ECU at the time? the little resistor or chip that blew out was on the opposite side of where the chip you burn was. I thought that was the only thing they changed out in the ECU was where the burned chip went.

Correct me if I'm wrong.

Could that have caused my car to do something wrong while driving and therefore causing it to go lean or whatever and blow?</TD></TR></TABLE>

burning the IAT sensors will send your timing and AFR's goin nuts===&gt; so yes it can be a major factor in your motor blowing.

when mased tune my car a while ago street tuned we were hitting 11-12 AFR's but my IAT sensor burnt to a crisp and i noticed that night my AFR's were hittin 13's and 14's. Upon calling mase to come back, he said my iat's were all over the place and we pulled it out to find that it burnt because the wires were switched from the IACV and the iAT sensor- also causing the traces in my ecu to burn out.

0xenocron

This had nothing to do with your ECU or the way it was chipped. The ECu burning and your sensor melting was casued by improper wiring setup.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Urugly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is that something that was done when they chipped my ECU at the time? the little resistor or chip that blew out was on the opposite side of where the chip you burn was. I thought that was the only thing they changed out in the ECU was where the burned chip went.

Correct me if I'm wrong.

Could that have caused my car to do something wrong while driving and therefore causing it to go lean or whatever and blow?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Urugly

How do I know if those wires were switched then? For all I know everything is all stock. Where do I look to see if it may have switched? Just as DC2 said..on the dyno we were cool and then on the way home the A/F went higher.

I want to get my car running already. I am going to order a new IAT, but need to make sure the wiring is cool before I get a new ECU.

Thanks everyone for your help so far.

Urugly

HOw about the leak out of the middle section of turbO? any suggestions on that?

ATYPR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xenocron &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This had nothing to do with your ECU or the way it was chipped. The ECu burning and your sensor melting was casued by improper wiring setup.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

seen this 729472349 times at my old shop. Sounds like the IACV and IAT plugs are switched.

it's been a long time but I think it's......

wire colors - IAT
red/yellow & green/black - integra
red/yellow & green/white - civic

wire colors - IACV
yellow/black & black/blue - integra
yellow/black & blue/yellow - civic

Urugly

Thanks for the info. I will try and take a look at it this Friday and match it up or at least tell you how the wire colors match up on the car.

How about leak in ball bearing turbo? Does that mean I have to rebuild it? Someone told me BB turbos cant be rebuilt? Is that true?

Joseph Davis

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Urugly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do I know if those wires were switched then?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If Q31 on the ECU is obliterated, you know.

If the IAT is melted, you know.

If two of the injectors decide to hold themselves wide open on any car that ECU is plugged in to, you know.

If you cannot get rid of a CEL 10, you know.

If any combination of the above occurs, you know.


Whomever hooked up you engine harness to the engine is the one who fucked it up. Stock wiring on OBD1 cars is real easy to get confused, the wrong combo of plugs reach just as easily as the right combo. It's a situation where you have to KNOW about the cars.

fast2camciv

had the same thing happen to a car that i was tuning and it fried my tuning ecu...learned i had to double check those wires the hard way

kenbdSi

Good thread. I am having the same issues. My ecu has a burning smell. I am able to start the car but it will not idle. I thought it could have been the 404 cams and untuned chip. My questions is ..Is the ecu done for or is it still able to be saved?

Urugly

The original builder that did all that has been working on hondas for a while. When I was breaking car in for 6 months before I got my turbo in the car ran perfect. NOT one issue at all. No CEL lights or anything.

I only noticed this after when the motor was rebuilt again using the same harness and everything.

Let me take a look myself and take a picture of where in my ECU it blew also so you know.

Thanks guys for the help.

kenbdSi

The pics would be helpful. i would like to compare to mines

ATYPR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Urugly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I only noticed this after when the motor was rebuilt again using the same harness and everything.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

that's when the plugs got switched. Just check the IAT and IACV plugs.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ATYPR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

seen this 729472349 times at my old shop. Sounds like the IACV and IAT plugs are switched.

it's been a long time but I think it's......

wire colors - IAT
red/yellow & green/black - integra
red/yellow & green/white - civic

wire colors - IACV
yellow/black & black/blue - integra
yellow/black & blue/yellow - civic

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Joseph Davis

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ATYPR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that's when the plugs got switched. Just check the IAT and IACV plugs.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

And purge control solenoid plug... thay's far more likely to get plugged in place of IAT.

Urugly

Ok guys here is the pictures finally. Here is what I did see. From the TPS sensor there was one wire that was not hooked up to something. What can that be?



Here is the Intake Temperature Sensor thingy burned:



Here is the leak-routing for oil return is actually real nice with no kinks:



What do you guys think? I just got ECU rechipped and was going to start it up again so I can dyno tune by next week.

Suggestions on the wiring? It looks like there is a white and blue that has electrical tape around end of it. Then from the picture we have the green wire that is look with no tape to it. That belongs somewhere but not sure where?

Urugly

Forgot this picture-notice the wire that is just loose in green. Not sure where to hook that upto? I don't see anything in the back of my block?

The leak:

Urugly

any other help from these pictures? What do I do with these open wires?

0xenocron

Take it to a good mechanic...

0project dc2

iTrader: (1)

looks like the green wire goes to your map snesor. but you have a 3 bar hooked up now. prob just the end of it sticking out

AZSTATEPOLICE

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Urugly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">3. Then when pressurized, oil starts coming out of my GT3076R turbo in the center section. Turbo was brand new and probably had 50 miles on it. Why is it leaking? Checked oil return and water line and it looks good and tight. NO kinks. Could I have a blown turbo already? Is that possible?
QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Urugly]

Here is the leak-routing for oil return is actually real nice with no kinks:


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Judging by the picture you have provided I am guessing the center setion is leaking due to your oil return line. The oil has no where to go, and looks as if it has to travel upwards to return to the pan. Any resistance on the return line could cause your CS to leak.