boosted b20 break in
im gonna turbo my b20 in a crx very soon.. i was wondering, how can i do the turbo break in period if i dont want to drive it before its tuned? or how can i drive it untuned for the break in period.. idk what to do lol can anyone help?
is the motor brand new 0 miles if so i did 2 heat cycles and made sure no leaks then went str8 to the dyno to tune if the motor is not new install the turbo kit turn on the car and check for leak if no leaks take it to the dyno
You can break it in on the dyno. If your engine has zero miles, if its a fresh build, run SAE30 oil through it for maybe a heat cycle or two then drain the oil and put in 10w40 oil.
no, the motor has around 50,000 on it but its pretty fresh. i was just referring to the turbo break in period, and how i would get it to my tuner and all that. thanks alot guys. oh, and i might be thread jacking myself but im runnin synthetic in it, would i run 10w40 synthetic after i install the turbo?
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I have too many questions that I want to ask. I'm not really sure where to start. Is the motor built for a turbo? For example, are you running low compression pistons? I'm just worried if you've been driving around with an engine built for a turbo without a tune.
Engine oil is kind of preference. My tuner suggests 10w40 non-synthetic. If you built this motor fresh and put synthetic in before the piston rings seated then you might have a slight issue on your hands. Freshly built engines need break in oil and non-synthetic for at least 500 miles; after that its your preference.
Engine oil is kind of preference. My tuner suggests 10w40 non-synthetic. If you built this motor fresh and put synthetic in before the piston rings seated then you might have a slight issue on your hands. Freshly built engines need break in oil and non-synthetic for at least 500 miles; after that its your preference.
I have too many questions that I want to ask. I'm not really sure where to start. Is the motor built for a turbo? For example, are you running low compression pistons? I'm just worried if you've been driving around with an engine built for a turbo without a tune.
Engine oil is kind of preference. My tuner suggests 10w40 non-synthetic. If you built this motor fresh and put synthetic in before the piston rings seated then you might have a slight issue on your hands. Freshly built engines need break in oil and non-synthetic for at least 500 miles; after that its your preference.
Engine oil is kind of preference. My tuner suggests 10w40 non-synthetic. If you built this motor fresh and put synthetic in before the piston rings seated then you might have a slight issue on your hands. Freshly built engines need break in oil and non-synthetic for at least 500 miles; after that its your preference.
Well thats your problem right there. It is going to blow eventually it happens to everybody. Since you cant really afford to do it right, then do not do it at all. You are going to learn the hard way my friend.
let me rephrase that. i mean i can afford it if it blows within a month or so..a full b20 longblock is 500 bucks but i cannot afford to completely build my motor lol thats a lil more expensive
Ah, gotcha. And that was my bad, I forgot B20's have low compression pistons. Yes, you can swap back to non-synthetic.
Last edited by mechanix619; Oct 4, 2010 at 11:16 AM. Reason: edit
just stay out of boost and run a stock PCV system until you feel its broken in.
really all it will take is 20ish miles of hard acceleration and deceleration in gear and u are good to throw boost at it.
really all it will take is 20ish miles of hard acceleration and deceleration in gear and u are good to throw boost at it.
i do always run sae 30 throught it, bring it up to temp varying rpm between 2000 and 3000 for a good 10 minutes then drain the oil and let it cool off.
beyond that, as long as the tune is good (or on the dyno if you are tuning) run it through its paces. my current motor was broken in like that and it has 208 psi compression off of about a 9.3:1 static and 5-8% leakdown. got like 1500 miles on it and was wide open to redline off the wastegate (9 psi about 330whp) with somewhere around 5 miles. (had to just touch up vacuum section)
its all about heat cycles. just be diligent with oil changes. it might be overkill but i do mine with like 100 miles, 500 miles, 1000 miles then onto the 2000 miles regular intervals.
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