Teglove2

I know its a lot to read but bare with my guys and thanks in advance!

Alright guys, what's up! My name is Ryan for some of you that don't know me.....anyways I'm enrolled at Wyotech right now and I just got done with my 3rd day in Chassis Fabrication class. The shop that we have is top notch. We have access to Mig/Tig welders, oxy torches, plasma, tubing benders, vertical/horizontal bandsaws, iron workers, all the flat stock and tubing we need to do whatever projects our heart desires.
So, that brings me a few questions I wanted to ask EXPERIENCED welders in this forum who have had experience putting cages in hondas. I will be putting cages in a 93 eg hatch and my 98 integra 2 dr. 1 1/4"ODx .120 wall mild steel will be going into the eg and 1 1/4"OD x .120 wall chrome-molly will be going in the dc2. This is what the instructors recommend and I'm looking for feedback on these dimensions. Also, they have recommended Tig for the cages if we get good enough so hopefully(I've never welded before) I'll be able to pick it up reasonably fast and Tig my cages.
Next, I wanted to see if you guys have pics of cages in either egs or dc2 and explain a little bit on the engineering/design you decided to go with and why. The main point of this post is that I want to do both cages RIGHT the first time. Also, as far as painting goes I've seen a few people on this forum wrap the inside of the car with newspaper to start painting. I was wondering if there is a simpler method and what paint/method you decided to go with.
Finally, they told us before we bring the car into the shop to have the interior stripped as much as possible and we have to remove and gas tank and all gas lines under where we are going to be welding. Is it normal for cage builders to remove the tanks?
I'm actually very lucky to be in this class cuz we have top notch instructor and access to the best equipment and the cheapest materials(price) because the school buys TONS of material. I will not be taking the dash out just fyi. The material pricing is really cheap like I had mentioned so I'm not to worried about making the cage elaborate. Also, if there are any more chassis stiffening pieces I can fabricate for the car either in the interior or out please give me some insight on it. Thanks a lot for reading and I hope I didn't ask too many stupid questions but hey, everyones got to start somewhere right? Thanks guys!
P.S. Something else I forgot to ask, what electronics besides battery and ecu do you guys disconnect when welding roll cages?

Update: Here's some pics. Spent 7 hours ripping out the interior, sound dampening, wire wheeling all the "glue" out of the car. What a mess but finally its done and ready for the cage! enjoy
Ryan

Teglove2

bump for a guy who wants to see some pics of some cages!!
Ryan

PM-Performance

I dont know how much help you will get in here. But dont go buy what the instructors say on materials and ****. Go by NHRA specs. No sense in building a cage that isnt legal. They have the thicknesses and stuff on there.
As far as the pipes and routing and such. I know Frank has stuff with diagrams with the points for roll bars to full chassis.
Really all you will need is the side bars that must meet the height requirement. Measured off the top of my head along your should to elbow line I guess when your hands on the wheel. The hoop will go behind the seats obviously. I think they need to be a certation distance from the head of the driver and from the roof of the car.
The rear bars just go into the trunk. Angles depend on if you want seats or not.
Its hard to say really.

Teglove2

Thanks Pete. I've already printed out the nhra sport compact rules and showed my instructors. Believe me, I wouldn't go by what they say I was going to go by nhra specs that I printed. I want to do something out of the ordinary and wanted to see some pics that would give me some ideas......
Ryan

PM-Performance

Why do something out of the ordinary? You just need the regular old **** in there for protection if you hit 11's or better. No sense on overkill if you dont need it. Getting in and out of a car with a cage isnt the most fun.
Im doing swingouts on the Supra cuz my fat *** gets lazy jumping over bars.

Teglove2

Thanks for the "positive criticism" Pete. You're always there to support me lol. I dont to do something ordinary if I don't have to. I'm just going to come up with multiple designs and see what the instructors say about the strength of each design and go from there.
And don't forget I'm a skinny bastard so getting in and out won't be so hard for me lol.
P.S. Do you ever return calls?
Ryan

PM-Performance

Im just saying about ordinary because it should be a simple design. Just hit the points you need to hit and call it a day.
Ive been busy lately studying for cert tests and working on the Supra. I dont have a number to cal you back at fool

mrbigg9032

Ok alot of things to cover here. The mild steal cage can be mig welded into place but if you have a tig welder then use it. The chrome moly cage must be tig welded because the mig will not let u penitrate into the steal as much as a tig due to the strength of chrome moly. Also u cant grind any welds, the person inspecting your cage must see all the welds.

As for painting, ya its a bitch when i was doing mine but the only way to do it is use newspaper and tape off the whole inside of the car. Dont go crazy, just use rattle can paint, primer, and clear. It will come out really nice if u take your time.

As for the cages themselves u can get them pre bent for you exact car in as many points (6,8,10 point cages) as u want from Chris Alston's Chassisworks. I bought my 10 point cage from them and it was less then $400 bucks for everything. Dont remeber the exact price ill try and find it. Heres their website http://www.cachassisworks.com and Phone # (800) 722-2269. Good luck with the cage if u have anymore quesions just ask...

flood

My friend built cages for 3R racing, I will see if he can chime in with some advice.

Teglove2

Thanks for the feedback guys! And no, I'm not buying anything prebent but thanks. We have all the supplies we'll need right here at Wyotech. All the bends have to be done manually by me......I've been reading up on the nhra rules and I know what the thicknesses have to be now. My instructor actually advised me not to go with 4130. He asked me If I had ever seen a car crash that had 4130 and I say "no." He said it wasn't pretty and just to use mild steel so that's what I'm doing. Nhra says to use 1 3/4 Od and due to the wall thickness changing on bends I have to use .134 wall thickness.....and yes I'm definitely going to take my time painting it cuz this car is going to be a reflection my work qualites and pics of it/cage welds are goin in my portfolio to show future employers......Thanks again guys!
Ryan
Pete. P.S. pm sent