melted pistons
[QUOTE=Glove;41715026]ah ****, didnt know you were running a non-vtec,
but 20 degrees at 12 psi is still quite a bit for pump gas,
but if he didnt sync the dizzy with the software, and the dizzy was actually at 30 degree's, you can add,
30 - 16 = 14
14 + 20 = 34* at 20 psi
which is extreme,
and also not to mention, did he disable stock ignition corrections?[/QUO
i don't know what he did but i'm possitve it was that the timing was to advance
but 20 degrees at 12 psi is still quite a bit for pump gas,
but if he didnt sync the dizzy with the software, and the dizzy was actually at 30 degree's, you can add,
30 - 16 = 14
14 + 20 = 34* at 20 psi
which is extreme,
and also not to mention, did he disable stock ignition corrections?[/QUO
i don't know what he did but i'm possitve it was that the timing was to advance
There's one other thing that I feel like sharing. Not many will recall this, but CP pistons had some major issues a few years back. Some b-series engines with CP's were melting in that same spot. Their claim was that OIL was getting in the cylinder and causing hot spots, leading to the melt downs. Your pistons from the 1st time look like they had burnt oil on them, not carbon, and maybe enough to cause that problem.
There's a chance that still could have been the tuner's fault. If he bathed your new rings in fuel for too long, he probably toasted your rings. That would allow oil into the cylinder, causing hot spots, causing the melt down.
In the end it's hard to prove anything if it wasnt' compression checked of fully blueprinted (every possible spec recorded). But if someone doesn't have a business license, other tuners that aren't direct competitors don't recommed him, and has a half a dozen cars that have blown up in his care - I'd have to say I'd lean towards him as the main cause.
compression was 200 across the board
the second time he tuned my car i was driving home and i felt the car hesitate on normal driving i looked at my wide band and it was reading between 17and 18 AFR'S so i call the tuner and he said that nothing was gonna happend also it was running 10AFR'S @WOT so i don't know if maybe that play a part in messing up the engine
the second time was when he made it detonate and cracked the head gasket around the fire ring i ended up putting a new head gasket and bringing the car back to him but this time he didn't put it on the dyno he said there was no need and that he was gonna tune it on the street and thas when it happend THE END all my money down the drain in 45 minutes of driving on the street
the second time he tuned my car i was driving home and i felt the car hesitate on normal driving i looked at my wide band and it was reading between 17and 18 AFR'S so i call the tuner and he said that nothing was gonna happend also it was running 10AFR'S @WOT so i don't know if maybe that play a part in messing up the engine
the second time was when he made it detonate and cracked the head gasket around the fire ring i ended up putting a new head gasket and bringing the car back to him but this time he didn't put it on the dyno he said there was no need and that he was gonna tune it on the street and thas when it happend THE END all my money down the drain in 45 minutes of driving on the street
if you are running 10s in WOT. it wont run smooth. didnt u feel some sort of hesitation on WOT? and 300whp isnt that fast. so your 3rd gear pulls should feel this 'richness'
like i said before thats the reason why i brought the car back to him so he can fix it cuz it wan't running right
we were on the highway when this happend so no we didnt check the plugs
last time when he set the mechanical base timming i swear he said that he set it to 30 degrees cuz i asked him and when i asked him today he said that it was at 20 degrees so right there i know that hes trying to cover his butt
last time when he set the mechanical base timming i swear he said that he set it to 30 degrees cuz i asked him and when i asked him today he said that it was at 20 degrees so right there i know that hes trying to cover his butt
i'm going on vacation tomorrow for a week so i won't be able to post anything but when i get back i'll keep all posted i should have the results of the injectors too when i get back, cuz i sent them out to get check, so really if there fine i don't know what alse it could be , fuel pump ,fuel rail and fuel press regulator are all new .
[QUOTE=ashb82;41725924]can your block be bored out. I would buy some pistons and be done with it[/QUO
i don't know if it can be bore out i would have to take it to the machine shop and find out
right now its got an 88mm bore and i know that the sleeves can be bore out to 90 mm but even if i was able to bore it out thats gonna cost me $200 the pistons another $500 head gasket $ 120 and thats if nothing alse broke, and on top of that i don't have any more money i can't expend any more money i'm only working 4 days a week now so i'm broke
i don't know if it can be bore out i would have to take it to the machine shop and find out
right now its got an 88mm bore and i know that the sleeves can be bore out to 90 mm but even if i was able to bore it out thats gonna cost me $200 the pistons another $500 head gasket $ 120 and thats if nothing alse broke, and on top of that i don't have any more money i can't expend any more money i'm only working 4 days a week now so i'm broke
How is your distributor set?
Is it turned back?, centered?
Its supposed to be 16 degrees base timing synched to the ecu...
If he set it at 30 degrees mechanical base timing but didnt synch it, wouldnt every point in the map be 14 degrees OVER ADVANCED than what it actually says in the tables?
Is it turned back?, centered?
Its supposed to be 16 degrees base timing synched to the ecu...
If he set it at 30 degrees mechanical base timing but didnt synch it, wouldnt every point in the map be 14 degrees OVER ADVANCED than what it actually says in the tables?




