I am new to this whole turbo scene so take it for what it's worth. The kit is from MaxRev with their manifold, intercooler with piping (not custom, just some pipes that you have to weld together), 57 trim turbo, Tial wastegate, SS oil line, couplers, clamps, hose and other things I probably forgot.

My car has ACT Xtreme, Crower1 cams, Skunk2 cam gears, AEM EMS, 550cc RC injectors, AEM fuel rail, AEM fuel filter, AEM fpr, Tial wastegate, Tial bov, Turbxs manual hpbc, walbro intank fuel pump, new colder NGK spark plugs, egt gauge, boost gauge, fuel pressure gauge, and Greddy turbo timer.

1. When I start my car, the rpm just drops and it dies. Once it's warmed up, it doesn't ever stall.
2. The stock temperature gauge seems to go to about 3/4 of the way up when the car shuts off.
3. There is slight hesistation when I take off.
4. The car cranks like 5 times before it catches. Perhaps it's the .037 gap on the plugs.
5. The wastegate makes a fluttering noise which I am told is normal. I don't really hear the bov but then I haven't really boosted as I am kinda scared. I know it does go off though.
6. The car idles at 1000 to 1100 rpm consistently.

I am getting 225whp and 214 torque. Isn't the torque number kinda high for only 225whp? It definitely pulls harder even when not fully boosted. So that's good. But I really think I need more tuning. Where to get the AEM EMS tuned really really (and I can't stress the 'really' part enough) well is beyond me. Overall I am very nervous and would greatly appreciate it if you experienced guys could comment on my thoughts.

Oh and a couple of things I forgot to mention. Vacuum is 20 and the fuel pressure reads between 36 and 44 or so. I haven't boosted above 5psi. Call me a wuss.


[Modified by Anubyss, 10:47 AM 6/19/2002]

 

Some pics. These were taken at the shop.

 

an untightened bOV will do this. Lopes, stalls, crappy running when your BOV is all the way open at idle.

 

The Tial bov is tight. I tightened it myself. The idle is not lopey but steady. It's only when first starting the it stalls. Never after warming up. But is there a proper way to face the bov? I mean there was an opening in the top piece of the bov. If anyone runs a Tial bov, the top piece can be turned and you can see an opening when faced a certain way. Should it be open, close, half way open or something? It's hard to explain. I was told by the tuner it doesn't matter.

 

Sorry but, this doesnt really answer your question but, is more of a concern in the long run... it looks like some of your lines are too close to your turbo!! You should get something to wrap these things.

just a constructive criticism!!

 

With the exception of the oil line, I am going to wrap the other lines. It does get mighty hot in there now. I may even just wrap the manifold and the turbo.

 

That is a sweet setup.. I didnt know that Maxrev finished making their h22 manifolds already?? I guess I am just lost in the sauce... Anyways your setup looks really clean and I am sure that the feel of the turbo is worth all the heartache and strife.. Did you do any work to the bottom end at all??

I would love to see your setup sometime, hit me up on the email so we can talk.
jdjoseph2000@hotmail.com

 

where is your bov i cant seem to see it in the pics

 

Well no bottom end yet. I do have pistons and rods sitting at home. I just need to save up a bit more so I can get the block sleeved from GE. Then I'll slowly increase the boost to 15psi or so. I am nervous about driving my car and there are still some issues that need to be ironed out. I just think the EMS needs to be fine tuned a bit more.

The pics were taken at the shop before they put the bov on. If it's still light out when I get home I'll take some more pics. The Tial bov is right where the stock intake would have been.


[Modified by Anubyss, 10:31 AM 6/19/2002]


[Modified by Anubyss, 10:32 AM 6/19/2002]

 

Very nice setup though like I said. How was the fitmit with Maxrev's manifold?? And did you get the whole kit from them including the intercooler?

And BTW, if I was you I would stay at 5psi until you are able to iron out everything.. Everyone knows that stock ludes dont like boost at all and you dont want to hurt anything, especially in these infant stages..

 

I haven't really boosted past 5psi yet. I don't think I'll push the car until I get it tuned again by someone else. If the numbers don't go up, then I have to believe the manifold is too restrictive as was stated by the tuner. The kit comes with what I listed on the first thread. I had to purchase everything else.

 

This sound a lot like what I was experiencing a couple weeks ago. Although I'm not familiar with H22's at all, maybe the problems are similar? Here goes...

1. When I start my car, the rpm just drops and it dies. Once it's warmed up, it doesn't ever stall.

I had to hold down the accelerator for a little while. My revs jumped from 700 - 1300. Teh garage checked my fuel lines and filter. After a couple days of "watching" the car warm up, the problem just went away. Now I turn it on, it bogs between 700 and 800 with no problems.

2. The stock temperature gauge seems to go to about 3/4 of the way up when the car shuts off.

THIS IS SCARY. I drove around and the temp went up about halfway so I parked it and watched the temp gauge creep up almost all the way before I shut it off. I had a radiator leak and I had to get a new one. Do you check your fluid levels often? I had to fill up coolant everyday until I got a new one.

3. There is slight hesistation when I take off.

Turbo lagg

4. The car cranks like 5 times before it catches. Perhaps it's the .037 gap on the plugs.

Maybe fuel lines or fuel filter.

5. The wastegate makes a fluttering noise which I am told is normal. I don't really hear the bov but then I haven't really boosted as I am kinda scared. I know it does go off though.

So what is the problem?

6. The car idles at 1000 to 1100 rpm consistently.

Mine used to be at 1300. They loosened the throttle cable and now it is about 700.

Let your car and yourself get used to the turbo. Just take it easy until you get everything worked out because if you rush, you will get burned.

BTW - you have a lot of crap for being new to the turbo scene! Learn as you go I guess.

Check your fliuds!

Dave

 

Well, I have been reading and learning before I purchased the turbo items. I've been researching for what parts I would need since January. I was hoping that I purchased all the right items to have the turbo up and running correctly. I still needed to purchase some things after the car was dropped off at the shop hehe. Still learning.....

 

check the bov my bro is running 5.8psi on a sohc vtec and his hks ssq is loud. u should hear it.

 

I know the bov is going off. When the car was on the dyno, I could see the o-ring move up and down. So it does blow off. I think the Tial bov isn't as loud as the other brands out there.

 

1. When I start my car, the rpm just drops and it dies. Once it's warmed up, it doesn't ever stall.

Sounds like fuel starvation.

2. The stock temperature gauge seems to go to about 3/4 of the way up when the car shuts off.

Not good! please explain "when the car shuts off". Do you mean when it turns off on its own? or when you turn it off yourself?

3. There is slight hesistation when I take off.

Possible tip-in, try to pinpoint exactlly when it happens, like if it's right at the vacuum-boost transistion point or if it's after the turbo is spooling.

4. The car cranks like 5 times before it catches. Perhaps it's the .037 gap on the plugs.

See #1. I doubt it's the gap but try tightening it up to .28-32.


5. The wastegate makes a fluttering noise which I am told is normal. I don't really hear the bov but then I haven't really boosted as I am kinda scared. I know it does go off though.

This could be a problem for you. I had a 57 trim on my prelude and it didn't last long. The surge limit was way too close and it would flutter just as you mentioned. Whenever I would rev in neutral, or even when I came off the throttle too quickly, it would make that 'chirping' sound. It would not change no matter how I adjusted my blitz bov. It ended up ruining my seals and now i'm on a 60 trim which I like much better.

6. The car idles at 1000 to 1100 rpm consistently.

Could be a number of things. Check the TB adjustments(there are 2) and for a vacuum leak. If you're getting 20-22" of vacuum, you should be ok there.

I am getting 225whp and 214 torque.

Wow that is a high torque number in relation to hp. Did you get an o2 graph?

I wish I knew where to get it dynotuned in the area... I think in the next 6 months there should be a better amount of EMS tuners on the right coast.

I was just speaking to "boss hogg" about this yesterday, he is having the same startup problem you are. Ironic in many ways!

 

Are turbo dyno charts usually this flat for horse power? I know when I was NA the power band was shifted more up the rpm band. Can overlap from my Crower Stage1 cams cause lower horsepower?

 

You must remember that you have a fairly low amount of boost so you wont be seeing any real numbers till you up the boost and tune again on the dyno.. Your graphs will begin to have a more steep arch then..

 

That chart is on 8psi with 5 hours of tuning and 60 dyno runs. I don't know if I can afford much more tuning $$$$.

 

I'd go back to the stock cams...

 

I am going to set the cam gears to 0 and 0 then dyno it. I guess I'll just take it from there. If there is no change, then I'll put the stock cams on there. If the numbers turn out better, then I'll adjust them more. Thanks Dustin.

 

what about your aem????????????????????????
is it tuned well????? or did someone just throw it in there and put some values in??

 

5 hours of tuning and 60 dyno runs. It's far from just some numbers thrown in. I just hope that it's the Crower cams that is causing the low power. When I spoke to Brian, he said there shouldn't be any issues with using the Stage1 cams with turbo. I really don't want to spend more money and time by having to take out the cams.

 

hey man, awesome setup....i emailed shane about the maxrev system for my car..prelude h23a....i'm very intersted in your situation..i want the larger turbo but if i'm going to have the same problems, its not worth it. keep us all posted...have you figured out for sure if the manifold is restrictive or not? do you still have your a/c?

 

I am pretty sure they don't have a manifold for the h23. I still haven't figured out if the manifold is restrictive or not. I really wouldn't even know how to test this. The only thing I can think of is to pop in another manifold and dyno it. And yes I still have my AC.