jeffk182

So i've finally gathered all my parts and made a checklist of what I have. If there is anything that I am missing, please let me know as I wish to complete my turbo project soon (its taken me a year!):

B-series Cast manifold

Garrett T25 Turbo

Custom Downpipe

Tial 38mm wastegate w/ dumptube

SS Oil feed line and Oil dump line

Precision Front mount intercooler

Aluminum Intercooler piping

Greddy Type S BOV

Silicone Couplers w/ T-bolt clamps

Boomslang Greddy E-Manage harness

Greddy E-Manage

RC 550cc Fuel injectors w/ OBDII Clips

AEM Fuel Rail

Walbro 255 LPH Fuel pump


This is wat I can think of off the top of my head. I dont have a boost gauge or a boost controller..running 7.25PSI Wastegate spring. I am all ears for any reccomendations. Thanks!!

-Jeff

Speed Infliction

vacuum lines, fuel pressure regulator, builder, tuner, s300 or crome or neptune even aem ems, boost controller, headstuds. that is all that i can think of off the top of my head

LsCivic18

Turbo Timer.

F20Cteg

A different turbo.


What are your power goals?

jeffk182

Im using the T25 for quick response.

I do have a turbo timer (HKS)

I have a tuner.

Im happy with the E-manage.

Power goals are anywhere from 220-240 whp at the moment.

Snafubmx234

A true garret T25, or are you using one off a 2nd gen Eclipse? If so, you have an internal gate, don't need the external stuff. Don't need the fuel pump or fuel rail either. Don't need a fuel pressure regulator (other than stock) or a "builder," since you have nothing to build.


But honestly, if you're using such nice parts (precision IC, aluminum pipes, ect) why are you going with such a shitty turbo. You can get a lot better chargers with great response. Learn to downshift, that's all

aaronISthrowed

A better clutch, all the gaskets and misc. bolts.

vtec.dc2

make additional vents, get some gauges to know your temps and pressures. t25 might be too small and you'll end up spending more money again. the boost lag so many people talk about is simply overrated, once you get going with small t3/t4 you'll catch up within second. if you make more hp, then thats all that counts, picking up extra torque at low rpm won't compensate for dramatic loss at high rpm.

dizzyek

catch can
boost gauge
exhaust 2.5 or bigger
clutch
vacuum manifold<(not needed but very functional)

I would also have to agree on ditching the t25.
I have a t3/t04e 50 trim .63 ar, with a stage three wheel on my stock d-series and it is more than streetable and absolutely ridiculous on the highway. Way better traction than a smaller turbo also.

Remember its not what happens at the start its what happens in the end.

This being said your t25 will get eaten alive by a bigger turbo.

Good luck

petty$rep

LOL, everybody hatin on the t25. if u do decide to go with a bigger turbo, u can always sell me the t25 since everyone thinks bigger is always better.

F20Cteg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jeffk182 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im using the T25 for quick response.
I do have a turbo timer (HKS)
I have a tuner.
Im happy with the E-manage.
Power goals are anywhere from 220-240 whp at the moment.</TD></TR></TABLE>

A straight T25 will not support 240whp.

What B motor is this?

A T3 Super 60 would suit your goals well and still spool up very fast.

Drag_S14

Actually, a T25 would easily support 220whp. Shouldn't take more than about 10-12psi to make that kind of power.

Also, ditch the emanage and get something like S300. Not that much more money, and a LOT better control. Also, no need for the AEM fuel rail unless you just want to spend more money. On that kind of power, and even more than twice that amount, the stocker flows plenty. The money you would spend on an emanage, jumper harness, and a fuel rail, you would more than cover an S300 setup. Also, you will need a 3bar map sensor to run anything over 11psi boost.

turboteener

This is a list I made for another forum:

You will need to buy:

Hose clamps for intercooler piping and water lines
Oil drain lines and AN fittings
3AN oil pressure line for the turbo
Air filter
O2 sensor bungs to weld into exhaust system
Aluminum sheet to make heat sheilds out of
turbo manifolds
Fitting to weld into drain pan
Injectors
Vaccum hose to handle blow off valves and waste gate lines
Boost gauge with requiste vaccum hose
ZIPTIES/TIEWRAPS
Ts to splice in for your coolant lines
Fittings to relocate oil pressure sensors, gauges, and feed lines
Misc. hose to cover amd protect braided hose
Intercooler and harware to mount said intercooler
All stainless hardware for anything in the exhaust system
Four ball and socket exhaust fittings in either 3in or 4in
Springs
Gasket material
Exhaust hangers
Coolant
Oil
Colder heat range spark plugs

jeffk182

Thank you all for your reccomendations and criticisms as well. I know that the E-manage isnt the best, but i got it for a bargain as well the fuel rail. If I have no need for the fuel rail with the FPR, I can just sell that.

I know also that the Garrett T25 turbo isnt much of one, but this is my very first turbo project and I wanted to start of mild since my funds are very very very limited. This kit alone took me about a year to gather. In the future I plan to upgrade to a T3/T04 turbo and plan to hit about 250+

As of now, im just gonna stick with what i've got, but I will take all of your reccomedations/criticism's into considerations. Thaks for all the help guys

-Jeff

jeffk182

This is the turbo that I am using:



Internal wastegate is welded shut.

Speed Infliction

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jeffk182 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thank you all for your reccomendations and criticisms as well. I know that the E-manage isnt the best, but i got it for a bargain as well the fuel rail. If I have no need for the fuel rail with the FPR, I can just sell that.

I know also that the Garrett T25 turbo isnt much of one, but this is my very first turbo project and I wanted to start of mild since my funds are very very very limited. This kit alone took me about a year to gather. In the future I plan to upgrade to a T3/T04 turbo and plan to hit about 250+

As of now, im just gonna stick with what i've got, but I will take all of your reccomedations/criticism's into considerations. Thaks for all the help guys

-Jeff</TD></TR></TABLE>

don't sell the fuel rail or regulator. you will probably want more power in the future.

jeffk182

Haha yeah, i just thought that lol. Im just gonna hold on that part for now and use it in the future.

Hondatron

spak plugs, Brand new and whatever youre prefrence on heat range. I suggest at least a heat range colder then stock.

jeffk182

Are these ok? They are temp 8.

F20Cteg

[QUOTE=Drag_S14]Actually, a T25 would easily support 220whp. Shouldn't take more than about 10-12psi to make that kind of power.
QUOTE]

Easily? Not even close. Even the largest T25 (60 trim) would be blowing extremely hot air at that power. At sub 60% efficiency. Also the restriction of the turbine housing would require more boost than 10-12 to make 220whp.

The problem is that the setup won't make any top end power and he'll be forced to boost higher and higher to get the peaky torque curve to bring in 220whp.

TIGboy

they shouldnt of even invented the T-25, you would have more fun with a super 60, or even a t3 60 Trim. your probably sick of people telling you to get a different turbo, but they arent lieing when it comes to power. Good luck.

HiProfile

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jeffk182 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Garrett T25 Turbo

Precision Front mount intercooler

Boomslang Greddy E-Manage harness

Greddy E-Manage

AEM Fuel Rail

Walbro 255 LPH Fuel pump</TD></TR></TABLE>


IMO given that list, you're better off going with an 84mm NA setup with big cams. It will no doubt make nearly as much power as the t25, yet have MUCH better response and be much safer. If you need boost, you'd be much better off with just an m45 jrsc supercharger. You'll have lower IAT's, better response, and get more power.


Although I'm a supporter of smaller turbos, you have to be realistic. Do yourself a favor and actually do the the math required to turbo sizing. The common sohc turbo 45-trim ".42/.48" T3 flows 21lbs/min (a bit less than a 15g), that t25 barely 18 at its limit at ~16psi. The 15g on sohc greddy kits are lucky to get 190whp at 10psi. If you go with a small turbo, low psi is just a waste.

That said, you will be further hindering power with e-manage. I won't say it can't be tuned, but for the same price, someone local can give you a MUCH better tune on CromePro. Going with the tiny turbo and thinking you need a fuel rail, a 300+ whp intercooler, and a fuel pump is just futile. Why not get 40" slicks they use on topfuel rail cars too? They'll be just as useful.

If you want to make power later, you'll want to lay the necessary ground work first. Turbo size and tune are the most important. You can still make power with a cheap fmic, still have fuel with the oem pump, and still not have issues with pulses inside the fuel rail disrupting flow. If your fuel/spark management isn't tuned well, it will not make much power, assuming it doesn't blow your **** to peices in a week.

Ask any tuner, your setup is only as strong as its weakest link.

jeffk182

Damn...all i asked was if I had what I needed to put it in, not what turbo I should run and wat Engine management I should use. Again, im sorry im not a millionaire like all of you running your equal length mani's with nice turbos. THIS IS MY FIRST turbo project and im not expecting to go big with this turbo. Im gonna upgrade to a bigger turbo in like 6 months so chill. You be happy with your setup, and i'll be happy when I find mine.

Now, if you wanna be helpful, tell me a good T3/T4 turbo that would get me to about 280WHP and a good mani to go along with that. You can flame on me all you want and its not gonna phase me. atleast im TRYING to do something.

HiProfile

Thats what I'm getting at, you don't have to spend loads on frivilous stuff. If you forgo the fuel rail and e-manage and do a 'normal' fuel/spark ems, you'll have a better, safer tune at the same or less cost. Not only that, but if you 'go big' later, e-manage simply won't be an option; you'll have to upgrade anyways.

As for the turbo, its just severly undersized. You won't be happy with it, and above 6k rpm, it will be very bad for your motor, as it will have an outlet temp of well over 300 degrees F. Whats quick response, if the response it gives feels like the motor would w/o boost? The manifold doen't matter much, but the turbo is the heart of the system. Would you put 6.6:1 CR pistons and lower-lift cams in an all-motor setup? No, so why use a turbo that can barely keep up with the motor's NA power needs?

If you want to know a good t3/t04 turbo that will do 280whp - pick any, and it will do it. From a 40 trim t3/t04e to a 60-1, they will all do 280 on a cast, log, or ramhorn manifold.


As for your last sentance, we aren't flaming you. If trying to teach you something about turbos that you have no first-hand experience in is flaming, then EVERY respected tuner here is guilty of being dirty, hard-assed, flaming bastards. Being a pioneer is great, we encourage it. But with force inducted hondas, virtually everything has been done, including what you have done. E-manage is a pain to do right (as few deal with it), and people have tried undersized turbos. Trying something blindly, despite there being proof it won't work (with experience AND formulas), is just plain stupid.


Let me just give you an idea what you can do with a HMT setup, a lot for a little. Used 16g turbo, $150. DSm manifold, $15. Oil lines, tees, fittings, hoses $80. Chipped ecu $90. Piping $40. Injectors, seals $50. Boost gauge, $50. Bov $25. Clamps $20. With that $520 in parts on a 90-93 f22 accord mpfi and some simple welding, you can make a solid, reliable 200 whp. 250+ whp if you add $125 for extra piping and an intercooler. None of that is name brand (besides the turbo and ecu/ems), but when you take care, its reliable as ****.

Go ahead and try it though. Expect serious flames when you come back later asking why your FI setup pings like crazy, doesn't pull past 6k, and gets horrible gas milage. But why should those problems be an issue though, when the intercooler and fuel rail make it 'totally baller'?

wicked2night

I actually in the process of getting all my turbo stuff together. I'm in europe so i have to think twice about how much is shipping going to cost and what the costums will be like.

So for turbo feed and drain lines, is it better to buy some in the "oil line kit" or could the same quality be made at home for cheaper? What are the requierments that the lines have to withstand?

Vacum lines, how are they different than a simple hose? Buy it or is it likely that i could get them locally?