ok im not really familiar wit map senors since im not educated much on all that.. but where does the map sensor plug into? and do you still use a map sensor wen u use hondata?? wen i put my turbo in and got it tuned i dnt recall me buying a map sensor but i remember something bout the tuner talkin about it.. can someone explain it to me thankss

 

the map sensor is (max air pressure?) or something like that, anyways, it limits the amount of pressure the engien can see. Stock honda map sensors are limited to around 11 or so psi. So if you wanna boost more than that, you need to get a new one.

It's located on the throttle body. It has a vacuum nipple leading inside of it and it detects the amoiunt of psi coming into the engine.

Yes, you still use a map sensor with hondata.

You're probably going to get ripped since you didnt search about a topic as common as this.

 

oh i see.. no searched a lot but i didnt know if it was to be used with hondata.. thanks tho u gave me a good explanation.. it never came up wit my first build because it was low boost. thanks

 

MAP sensor is actually manifold absolute pressure. it caculates the air pressure inside the engine intake manifold/throttle body. from that, it can calculate the air density, and from calculating air density, it can determine the flow rate of air going into the engine (and the amount of fuel needed by the injectors).

 

agree with Spets and if you were to go boost you dont need a new map sensor you pick up a piece called MISSING LINK

 

oh yeah see i had the missing link which is like an adaptor right? but my tuner said u dnt need it with hondata so we never used it. it makes sense too me.. another question w/o makin a new thread... if im boosting 12-17 pounds will my 450cc injectors work or do i need to upgrade? its a b16 civic and i upgraded to those wen i first turboed but now just rebuilt it so i will be boostin higher

 

it depends on what kind of power you're tryin to make. A b16 can take a beating but if the motor is built (not sleeved) you can run up to 18lbs on race gas. But in this case those injectors are probably good for 12-15lbs after that then yeah I would upgrade

 

that sounds alright.. yah my block is sleeved but im still going to be boosting low since it is my dd and then wen the time comes i will take my block out and swap it with a stock block or maybe ls block. and save my block for a weekend racer and boost higher

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostdEM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">agree with Spets and if you were to go boost you dont need a new map sensor you pick up a piece called MISSING LINK </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostdEM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it depends on what kind of power you're tryin to make. A b16 can take a beating but if the motor is built (not sleeved) you can run up to 18lbs on race gas. But in this case those injectors are probably good for 12-15lbs after that then yeah I would upgrade</TD></TR></TABLE>

cmon dude i see you are newer to the site but there is some misinformation in your posts. missing links are just a check valve that allows you to apply positive pressure to the intake and not throw a CEL. honda ECUs do not have maps for boost so if the map sesor detects postive pressure you will throw a CEL and run in limp mode. now the map sensor can read around 11psi IF the ecu is mapped for boost via hondata, crome, etc.

as far as the injecotrs and boost go. it depends on WHP not boost pressure so stating boost pressures is irrelavent. 450cc injectors are good for a max of 280-300whp so they seem a bit small for the OP's setup.

a built and sleeved b-series can take a ton of power so give us a power goal and we can help with injector selection. and why in the heck would you swap block back and forth for the weekend?? just leave the built motor in permanetly.

 

lol im not going to swap it for the weekends!... somewhere down the line wen its time to sell my coupe id take the block out and replace it with another one since i invested so much money into it. and id put my block in a crx or hatchback to use as a weekend track car..

* right now i want to make somwhere between 275-350whp

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spets &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it caculates the air pressure inside the engine intake manifold/throttle body. from that, it can calculate the air density, and from calculating air density, it can determine the flow rate of air going into the engine (and the amount of fuel needed by the injectors).</TD></TR></TABLE>

actually the MAP sensor does not "calculate" anything. it sends a voltage to the ecu and the ecu converts that voltage into a number and delivers the fuel needed based on a table of pressure vs RPM. it does not calculate air density or "flow".

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ndogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
actually the MAP sensor does not "calculate" anything. it sends a voltage to the ecu and the ecu converts that voltage into a number and delivers the fuel needed based on a table of pressure vs RPM. it does not calculate air density or "flow".</TD></TR></TABLE>

...and the stock MAP is 'limited' to 11psi because its a 1.75bar map sensor. 1.75bar - 1bar atmospheric = .75bar of boost (14.7psi * .75 = ~11psi). After 11psi, it can't tell if its 12psi or 120psi, so the ecu keeps giving the same timing and same amount of fuel for 11psi.

If you put a larger MAP sensor on, you'll need to rescale the fuel/ignition maps on you EMS for it to run, and then have it rutuned.