JDMs1eeper

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gen2integra2001 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea i know that i should have brake boosted...but icompletely forgot about it..oh well next time ill do it...heheheh </TD></TR></TABLE>

lol, woop his @$$

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FATBOYeg6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

a 30/40R, 1.06 A/R, can spool 30psi by 4500?!?! im assuming you mean on a 2 liter. either way thats nuts. you don't happen to have a dyno of that turbo @ 30psi do you? i can't picture what the powerband would look like if you had that much boost so low. hmmm....30psi from 4500-9500. i like the sound of that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol... Sounds like you would need to Daily Drive MT 235 60 15 drag radials or M&H 235 60 15 drag radials

FATBOYeg6

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMs1eeper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol... Sounds like you would need to Daily Drive MT 235 60 15 drag radials or M&H 235 60 15 drag radials

</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, good call. i doubt i would run 30psi daily...but you never know.

turbo-ls, a few pages ago we were talking about race fuel.i talked to the guy at my local VP race fuel dealer the other day, and he told me a few things that made me reconsider being so cheap about using race fuel.

JDMs1eeper

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FATBOYeg6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
he told me a few things that made me reconsider being so cheap about using race fuel. </TD></TR></TABLE>

moff ballz? jk... no really

Mr.Chow

I would like to spend between 1 and 2 g's. What do u guys think of the ss autochrome turbo kits? are they worth buying? I want the maximum hp i can get from the turbo.

HickamHatch

Theres a SSautocrome for ya...


Modified by 93civic96ls at 1:24 AM 1/28/2006


Modified by 93civic96ls at 1:24 AM 1/28/2006

Mr.Chow

so the manifold is pretty shitty then, so what if I get a ssautochrome kit and get a new manifold? I take it they cant weld for **** and their piping is thin as hell?

Outkast95LS

iTrader: (1)

Its been proven over and over again that their manifolds are shitty.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

What did you find out with the VP fuel that made you reconsider????

As far as the GT30/40R spooling up early, obviously there are many factors that come into play. Boost controller with gate opening setting is a HUGE plus with spool time. Comp ratio, a/r ratio, displacment, timing, manifold style are all factors.

FATBOYeg6

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-LS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What did you find out with the VP fuel that made you reconsider????.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the guy i talked to was telling me about a street engine he built specifically to run on pump gas. when all was said and done, he got it on the dyno, and it would not run on anything less than 110 octane. it would detonate bad just off idle on 93. so he tuned it with the 110, and decided to be cheap, and throw in half a tank of 93. it blew the blower straight up, and the heads to either side. he showed me a couple picture of what "being cheap" gets you.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-LS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As far as the GT30/40R spooling up early, obviously there are many factors that come into play. Boost controller with gate opening setting is a HUGE plus with spool time. Comp ratio, a/r ratio, displacment, timing, manifold style are all factors.</TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry for being a little slow, but by gate opening, do you mean the balance **** on the greddy profec. its the only boost controller i have any experience with. when setting it up for ultimate spool, can you just crank the balance to max response, or is it harder than that?

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

im not famailiar with the profec-b . but im sure thats just a sensativity setting. I run a turbosmart eboost. it has sensativity setting liek that but it has a setting that you tell the wastegate when to start opening. for example as soon as you start to build boost the WG starts to open releaving pressure and slowing down spool. now with my eboost what i do is set the opening pressure liek 1 or 2 psi before my actually boost setting. this cause the pressure to stay in the manifold and spool the turbo alot faster. i can even make it overboost which would say my boost setting is 12 i can have it peak at 15 and then drop down to 12 sort of like a peak and then level out. i dont do that nor recomend it. it just gets the wheels spinning and its stupid if you ask me but might have an avantage with a larger turbo not quite sure.

if you have any more questions let me know.

fracas

iTrader: (4)

1995 B18b1
T3/T4
Tial Wastegate
Tial BOV
2.5 piping
2.5 to 3" Dp
3" Kteller Exhaust
Magnaflow muffler
Hondata S200
11psi

243hp 235tq

FriedChicken101

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gen2integra2001 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea i know that i should have brake boosted...but icompletely forgot about it..oh well next time ill do it...heheheh </TD></TR></TABLE>
What is "brake boosting?"

Also, all these threads have me wary of sub-par turbo parts. Assuming that I was to piece together every piece of my turbo set-up (I've already pieced together everything else)... where do you guys get you're superior, proven parts?

I'm pretty much sold on the T3 over the T28 but where do I get it? Based on what I've been hearing I think I'll just throw my fully built motor in once its done and break it in... meanwhile I'll gather the best turbo pieces one by one. That is unless someone knows of an excellent kit. Again I just need: IC piping, T-Mani, down pipe, charge pipe (still dont know what this is!) the IC itself (if doesn't make too much of a diff. I'm inclined to just get a used IC from a junkyard- like from a conquest or eclipse). Please indicate some specific brands/websites that you have personal/proven experience with. No ebay!!!

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SF90gs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What is "brake boosting?"

Also, all these threads have me wary of sub-par turbo parts. Assuming that I was to piece together every piece of my turbo set-up (I've already pieced together everything else)... where do you guys get you're superior, proven parts?

I'm pretty much sold on the T3 over the T28 but where do I get it? Based on what I've been hearing I think I'll just throw my fully built motor in once its done and break it in... meanwhile I'll gather the best turbo pieces one by one. That is unless someone knows of an excellent kit. Again I just need: IC piping, T-Mani, down pipe, charge pipe (still dont know what this is!) the IC itself (if doesn't make too much of a diff. I'm inclined to just get a used IC from a junkyard- like from a conquest or eclipse). Please indicate some specific brands/websites that you have personal/proven experience with. No ebay!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

There are m,any places to get turbos. Do your self a favor and get a name brand turbo not an ssautochrome or xs power turbo LOL you can order direct from full-race or precision turbo or atpturbo. those are the big guys. if you want i would suggest getting the full race t3/t04e or the t3/60-1. both very good turbos and in teh 600 dollar range and will more then suit your needs. The pinks single cam car that they lost was running a t3/t04e and put down over 400whp in a single cam nonvtec.

manifolds make a big difference. dont get a cheap one. if your looking to get away inexpensive then a log style manifold will suit your needs plenty. and they have exceptional spooling characteristics over a tubular style mani but the tubular will make more top end power but thats talking like 700whp range you dont need to worry about that. a cast log or a tubular log would be perfect.

if i could go it all over again i would take a stock gsr swap and minor head work with a log mani and nice size turbo and make 600whp all day for alot less money then i have spent LOL oh well you win some and you loose some right

On that note i was just talking to Geoff over at full race about either a GT35/t67R or the GT40R and GT35 it is. Its on order guys i cant wait to make some dyno pulls. Hopefully my clutch will last me half the season LOL i dont have 1400 bucks for a twin disc right now. Anyone know where can get a tilton twin disc or exedy or clutchmasters for cheap?????? fill me in

InfamousDC2FI

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SF90gs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is "brake boosting?"</TD></TR></TABLE>

i would like to know too lol....is it some secret fast & furious technique??

blackeg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by InfamousDC2FI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i would like to know too lol....is it some secret fast & furious technique?? </TD></TR></TABLE>

to my understanding its driving with your brakes on. it slows the car down, and you can give it more gas, build more load, then when you take your foot off the brake you instantly boost up because of the load already placed on the motor. ive been messing with it myself recently

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

why not just smash the gas and spool. slowig your car down to speed it up. lets think about this one for a minute.

2STEP to build boost off the line other then that get the revs up and hope for the best. You can get teh revs up slipping the clutch and you wont be slowing the car down but you better have a good clutch to hold the heat.

SOHCD16y8

I dont think he meant it to come out like that, what I have always done is say Im goin 40, I put it in 2nd, give it like 1/2 throttle while applying enough brake to keep me at 40, when your ready to go you just let off the brake and mashh the gas. Instant spool and it take off much harder then just flooring it.

Snail EK

Been having the setup for a minute now but never got some numbers down heres you go enjoy. Put down 270\248 on 13ish psi

98b18b1
Stock internal
Love fab shorty manifold
60/63 Garrett turbo
rc440
Blizt Bov
38mm Tial
3" downpipe
3" exhaust
2.25 charpe pipe
Drag intercooler
Greddy Profec B
Crome chip
Thats about its pretty much simple stuff nothing fancy.

Big Thanks to Nu-Image and everyone else who helped.





10psi\13ishpsi

JDMs1eeper

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHCD16y8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont think he meant it to come out like that, what I have always done is say Im goin 40, I put it in 2nd, give it like 1/2 throttle while applying enough brake to keep me at 40, when your ready to go you just let off the brake and mashh the gas. Instant spool and it take off much harder then just flooring it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I floor it completly, while maintaining MPH. This keeps you maintain MPH but your turbo will be at full boost while your maintaining. Release the brake and you take off like a rocket.

crex23

I've got a question for those running the Crower 402T turbo cams, can you guys post up the complete cam spec card for these cams? I went to the crower website, but it won't let me pull up the 402T's because of the T on the end. I can type in 62402, but not 62402T, not sure why. Anyways thanks!

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

62402T-2 Stage 2 - Turbo/Super Charger Special
Specially designed specifically for forced inductionapplications.
Features short duration, high lift for added cylinder pressure and good bottom end power. Requires kit #84162.

Advertised duration
270 / 235

Duration with .050"
203/203

Gross lift with 1.75"
469/469

Thats right off the website crower.com

crex23

Turbo-LS, i got all that from the website but the dyno software i have is asking for i/evo and i/evc #s too. Are these numbers important?

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

the dyno is asking for cam specs?????? never heard of that before. I didnt have to put in anything like that when we dyno tuned my car. Maybe different type or dyno. I did mine on a Superflow Dynojet Windyn v2.2 interesting that it would need cam specs. if you find out why let me know im intreagued

crex23

Haha, no I have one of those desktop dyno programs for a computer. I'm just wanting to see how much hp I will gain over stock LS cams.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

LOL OHHHHHHH well it would all depens on where you set the cams to when there opening and cosing the valves. send me the program i want to check it out please