Jason Buechler

I recently picked up a bunch of a friends old turbo stuff. I don't know much about Hondas so I thought I would post here and see what you guys think would be a safe HP/boost to shoot for. He was told by the shop that built the engine that it should do 450 to the wheel at 19psi and remain safe as a daily driver.

Head:
B16 head
Skunk2 Ti valve train
BC stage 2 turbo cams

Block:
LS block
Wiseco 9:1 pistons (I haven't CCed the head to calculate exact compression)
Eagle Rods
block guard
ARP head studs

Turbo & Intake:
Garrett GT35R
Edelbrock intake
Stock throttle body

ECU:
Came with an S200 but I'm going to throw a Megasquirt 3 on it.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Stock sleeve?
What fuel?

spoolymcgee

you need rod bolts as well if your going to push that much boost. As well as sleeves as turbohatch asked. IT would be moronic to push that much boost on stock sleeves.

VTEC*

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Doesn't really matter how much boost as much as how much heat the motor makes from the power output.

That's why it depends on fuel. E85 takes more fuel to make power but that more fuel is also cooling down the cylinder temps. Also let's you run more timing and that's what makes the power.

Same with any other high octane fuel.

allmotorRyan

Pretty sure eagle rods come with arp hardware or comparable stuff, like they said tho for that hp sleeves are suggested unless running a different fuel besides 91-93 pump gas

Jason Buechler

Sadly the closest E85 station is over an hour drive. A town much closer should be getting it soon though. Once it does I'll be able to say E85 for sure but for now pump gas would be my limit.

I have been told it has the stock sleeves. Whats the cost of getting the sleeves done?

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

1000-1400

Jason Buechler

I was looking at sleeves last night and basically every thread was a pissing match between Darton and GE. I came across many posts saying that there is no real difference between the sleeves but who does them. GE won out due to in house machining and a lifetime warranty.

Are they still the suggested route or is there something new/better?

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Benson
Erl

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I still prefer darton... they are the original ductile iron sleeve company.

phaphon

I'm happy with my benson. I'm sure all the company mentioned is a good company

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Benson, GE, and Darton all do great work

phaphon

Wantboost has there been bad reviews on erl?

blackeg

ive been very happy with my benson block. wayy better than that aebs mess of a block i had previously.

i also might ditch those "turbo cams" for maybe itr's.

with a 35r that motor should need less than 19 psi to make 450 whp, which is about where i would stop on pump (i personally stopped at 438whp) to give room for error in different fuel brands etc. sure you could make 500+ on pump but its not worth it if you ask me. in a light chassis with good short track that 450whp will be a 10 second car

Jason Buechler

This engine in going in a Midlana. It's a rear engine version of the Lotus 7 kits you see every now and then. At 1,500lbs 450hp will be more than enough But I was just curious of over all setup. A friend of mine is making 530 in his civic and with RWD I should be able to keep with him fairly easy.

I have plans on ditching the cams but that is a ways down the road as funds allow. They will have to wait until after sleeves.

Your 438 number gives me exactly what I need though. I still have to spec the fuel system and injectors so at least I have a ballpark now.

Thank You!!

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

ERL does good work and has great products, I still have one of their old school big bore B series fuel rails... they were amazed I had one since they only made a few lol. Their products and services are a bit costly compared to some but the finished product is well worth it IMO.

I've only used sleeved blocks from Benson and Darton and I had no complaints about either, although the way Darton installs their sleeves makes it considerably easier to replace one or more sleeves. Muckman has had great results with his Benson block as well, even on a 13.5:1 compression turbo motor. It took bending a wristpin, breaking a rod, and killing a piston to damage a sleeve, which I'll be taking the motor and repairing it to keep it in the "High Compression Turbo family", so to speak

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

With a good tuner you can make 450 on stock sleeves. It's all in the tune. Granted a sleeved block does give you a little wiggle room since the physical sleeve is stronger.

A rwd lotus7 sounds like insane amounts of fun. A friend has a Lotus Exige 240 Cup car that he keeps killing the 2zz motors in, even built with aftermarket the valves the heads keep popping off. I am trying to get him to go K series but he has a Quaife 6spd sequential gearbox, Shiftek air shifter, and tons of 2zz fun parts but he's killed two built motors this year.

Jason Buechler

I ran into another problem. Instead of starting a new thread maybe you guys will allow me to ask here.

I currently have an LS transmission for my setup but I was wondering if there are any good cable shift transmissions that can be used? Even better, is there a conversion out there somewhere?

phaphon

Has port makes conversions for cable to hydro

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Hush makes a really good conversion too. What are you trying to convert anyways? If you want to use a hydraulic transmission, just go get a hydraulic pedal assembly. You are doing a custom job anyway.

F22Master

Im pretty sure he means shift change cables, like k series. But no, ive necer seen anybody do that on a b series, always just the tubular shift rod. You would also be bette

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Yea he means the shift linkage

all b and d series transmissions use a shift rod. a lot of people have done mid-engine civic and del sol builds and have still used a rod linkage system. there's threads with pics of how they modified/made a shift rod that works. when I get home I'll find the threads.

the only cable shifted transmissions are the h, h, and k series motors. it wouldn't be fiscally or physically possible to convert a b to a cable linkage, at least not without serious engineering.

your best bet might be to try and graft an h or f series transmission onto the b motor.

it would likely take cutting the existing b series bellhousing off where the flange is to bolt it to the motor, doing the same on the h/f trans and then welding the b flange to the transmission.

that's if you really want to stay cable. building a rod style linkage would be 1000 times easier and cheaper

Jason Buechler

Sorry I did mean cable shift linkage. I didn't even think of looking into the mid engine Civics to see their setups. Thank you again!

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

With all the talk of sleeves, it appears this little comment slipped through the cracks.

If you're getting Eagle rods, they will already come with upgraded ARP rod bolts. You don't have to buy them separately.