Lol " to skin a cat"

When you say icm delete it is the OEM coil inside the ignition?

 

Just be sure your running an ignition box with that ICM delete. Its not ment to run a coil just an interface between the ignition box and ecu

 

Figured I might as well use them. Hell I've had them laying around for about 4 yrs. collecting dust. They might have 2 hrs. run time on them.

 

The blaster SS coils arent the best BUT with the ignition box it will be a better coil. It can get you by for a while and still provide better spark energy than stock coil will.

 

On my fully build d series, was 450 on stock ignition with really tight gap, but i also wasn't able to go higher rpms than 7500, wich wasnt enough. so got msd and take it to 9, and got an extra 80 wheel, on just pump gas an meth alone.

 

If the gap gets too small, then you can actually have not enough spark... due to such a small air gap that a proper spark cannot be produced. Especially at higher rpms, the car would effectively stop revving, since the reduction in spark gap/energy would act as a big ignition cut.

I would say any high compression turbo build or any 400+HP Honda needs the following

Decent plug wires (not OEM)
Iridium plugs (smaller electrode, less resistance = more spark energy)
Upgraded internal coil

Or

ICM delete and an external ignition box/coil

Or

Screw it all and go coil in plug (no stock ecu based setups)

 

Ok thank you.
Just installed my digital 6 box and HVCII coil, I use Ik24 plugs with the factory gap.
The gap is .027, can I run this gap?

 

I run NGK blues ?

 

That's more than fine. No need to gap any closer.

 

NGK blues are fine. I used them on my d16 without issue... I have MSD big reds on my ls/VTEC... the same ones that came off my first Honda 7 years ago (99 em1) they've been going strong that long Lol.

 

Do you have some pictures of the icm fixed ?
Is there a plate to remplace the ignitor? How does it look like?

 

What?

Nothing goes in its place... it gets removed and that's it.

 

what i havent seen mentioned is the air gap from the rotor to the cap. I know its not adjustable really, but if there is a variance there the ignition system could use 1000-3000 volts more to jump the air gap in the distributor. If the total output of the coil is 30k at most, and 12 is used up on the first gap jump then u only have at maximum 18k more to use. Add plug gap, and wire resistance and now high cylinder pressure 18k or so is not nearly enough to fire. Its sad to see such a small gap. Using a Modis and tapping into the ignition system its fun to watch what happens changing spark plug gap around. The small gap will negatively affect idle quality, and may allow use of more cylinder pressure, but at the cost of a total burn.

Ignition spark is limited, and a metaphor I have heard is that it is like a "shoe string" looking like an L. The upward part is the amount of energy used to fire the plug. The 2 air gaps basically, and the ___ part is the "fire or burn" time of the plug and cylinder. If resistance causes the up ward line to increase, it takes energy from the ___ line of burn time.

So does anyone know of a great cap and rotor? is honda better and have less gap than say an autozone cap and rotor? I ask because maybe one stock ignition setup has a bigger rag (rotor air gap) than another causing some to run fine with big plug gaps and others dang near closed.

 

You're right.. no one mentions it, because few people worry about that portion of the design, (including myself). 90 % of street users use OEM, so there's not much to compare. IF we go MSD Cap, its still with the OEM rotor. We then look towards the rest of the system.. (i.e. ignitor, ICM,etc).

I highly doubt its very significant to truly investigate for the small amount of millijoules possibly gained, but I do see your point.

 

more just food for thought i guess. i cant see myself trying to machine down a cap to tighten up my rag LOL, but i could be one reason y some work so well and others do not.??

 

The problem is you can't do anything about the air gap... it is what it is.

Now if you got bored and had some random copper stock laying around then you MIGHT be able to tune the gap by replacing the contacts on the cap and rotor... problem is there isn't a real way to measure the air gap with the cap on..., unless you cut it up.

 

And if your setup is to the point where air gap affects performance then you really should be running a coil on plug system, making the air gap a moot point.

 

Well I picked up one of those Accel replacement coils. Visually not much to see. Looks just like the factory one except yellow.



I swapped it out with no other changes and went for a drive. I noticed right away my idle was leaner. This was good. When I initially closed the plug gap on the stock coil I had to pull fuel from idle because it got rich. This issue was now fixed.

On the stock coil I was running 0.028 gap. Any bigger, even just 30 thousands and I experienced spark blow out above 10 lbs of boost. With this Accel coil I opened up my plugs from 28 to 34 thousands and went for a test drive. 16 lbs of boost and no spark blow out at all. Ran strong and crisp all the way to red line in every gear. Idle is like stock again and it sure feels strong all through the RPM band.

Pretty happy with the results and glad the coil was an improvement.

 

I would be curious, dyno with your old coil (with its settings, plug gap, etc)
And then dyno with the new coil with everything gapped back out

With an AEM ems, a 450-500hp goal, NGK iridium (or their race plugs) along with msd big reds, I'm wondering still

Because the ICM delete just takes a lot of extra electronic components which in my eyes means more to fail. Plus I have to figure out how to locate and package all of the extra equipment with my amphenol plugs (shortened, tucked, more user friendly wiring harness) and my shaved/tucked engine bay

 

That would be interesting but I just don't have the time for that. Wish I had a dyno in my garage lol. I'd be using it all the time. A local friendly dyno shop that rents out his dyno is a good 45 minute drive each way and he's only open on week days so I have to take off work. Makes it expensive and time consuming to ever hit the dyno.

 

Perhaps your OEM coil was not in good conditions too?
I've changed my OEM ignition for a MSD6 and HVCII coil and add around 10% fuel more too with same gap 0.028

 

made 806hp 530tq @35lbs factory everything. Just had to keep playing with the plug gaps and now were going with coil on plugs.

 

My stock coil puts out a nasty arc. I would think it was your coil going bad. Did you put an ohm meter on it and test the primary and secondary winding?
Check the old coil and your new coil and record the diffrence. I'm sure the old coil is going to have a lot more resistance.

But for 50 bucks if\when mine takes a **** I know what I'm replacing it with.
Thanks for posting this.

 

No one's doubting that the stock CAN hold for a few dyno runs, so power isn't the limiting factor. Its changing these out to get a more efficient BURN for that power output, by ensuring that there is better spark that is longer lasting, and can withstand consistent and constant abuse. We get guys all the time with the stock components on the circuit running less than half the power you are but for 20-40 minutes at a time of constant abuse. This is when the stock components (which were usually older and worn anyway) started to fail.

Why keep switching and gapping plugs when one can find practical solutions to eliminate that need?

 

We've heard this about a hundred times from you. You don't like stock coils we get it...