Hey Guys,

This relates to my D16Y8. Running on 91 pump gas with a Precision 5431 at around 12 ~ 14 lbs I was experiencing spark blow out with about 32 thousands on the plug gap. I gapped them down to around 28 thousands and they worked great.

I then switched to E85, put timing back in the motor and bumped boost to 18 lbs. Ran like a champ and pulled hard as hell for a few days and a couple tanks of gas. Then I started noticing what felt exactly like spark blow out again only towards the top of 3rd and 4th close to 18 lbs. It made me wonder if the stock ignition coil was maybe seeing its limits? I pulled plugs and they were still at 28 thousands as before and looked fine. I was going to try and swap plugs but it was late and auto parts store was closed already. With bad weather moving in I filled back up on 91 pump and parked the car. Driving truck while it's crappy out.

Just curious what others with D motors have experienced as far as the stock ignition system. Maybe all I need is new plugs.

Thanks
Malcolm

 

Stock ignitions is good condition technically will handle 600hp. This always ends in a heated debate. IMO stock ignition 350-400. After that needs replacing. Depends on your budget what you can do. I'm running summit box crane ps92 coil and igniter delete box and running a .030 gap at 28 pounds of boost no breakup. Love my ignition and been running it three years now Trouble free.

 

Does it make sense though that mine worked for about a week and then started breaking up? It seemed to get worse over the couple days it was breaking up too. Do coils start to fade that way from stress on high cylinder pressures or does it sound more likely like something else.

 

It depends upon the age of the ignitor and /or Internal coil. It doesn't take much over time for them to "die" whether or not the car is boosted if it had high mileage from when you purchased the car.. Yes, there is more stress on the ignitor and ICM, its mainly because of the amount of spark needed to ignite the fuel on increased cylinder pressures. But if it was driven on years before your went turbo, its very possible for it to just "fail" one day out of the blue.

 

Type of fuel makes a difference too. Ethanol is harder to light off than Gasoline for example. RPM also shortens charge time as well.

 

Thanks guys. I'll have to play around with it some more once the weather clears. Last night when I put 91 back in and dropped back to my 91 tune with less boost (14 lbs) it pulled crisp and strong with no break up.

I have no idea on ignition coil and ignitor age. I can only assume the originals.

 

Might need to gap the plugs way down..,

How new are the plugs, wires, cap, coil, etc?

Larger Msd or NGK wires might be needed

 

Plugs, cap and rotar about 2k miles. Coil and plug wires are original 186k mile pieces

 

New wires for sure, what plugs are you running? I use iridium plugs in everything but my lawn equipment

 

Gap the plugs down a lil. Seen a lot of ppl do it on stock ignition systems.

 

NGK bk7re I think it is. Copper plugs, cooler heat range.

Like I said I had gapped them down to 28 thousands and it was working fantastic for a few days and then something started to fail and make it have a slight miss under the hardest load (5k + rpms, 4th gear, 18 lbs WOT). It slowly got worse over a couple days.

 

Thats a big gap on stock ignition. bring them for to at least .022 on stock ignition. As it weakens you will have to continue to gap them down till the ignitor or coil or both fail.

 

Oh wow. Didn't realize you guys go so small on the plug gaps. I'll probably replace the ignitor and coil in the spring. No point in riding on failing hardware. I assume stick with OEM Honda? Seems like everything I get from Oreillys is such cheap crap.

 

I've seen people go as low as .018

 

wow. When I dropped from approx 35 to 28 it seemed like it affected my idle. I had to lean out the fuel just a hair. I imagine 28 to 22 will have a similar affect. It's like the spark is just not big enough to have an efficient combustion at idle (possible other times too).

 

This is the reason why I personally feel and many others do as well the stock ignition is inadequate. Just nto enough spark energy. OEM ignitor is not cheap at all. for what your going to spend just upgrade and be done

 

Ah gotcha. Yeah if the OEM stuff is fairly high dollar I'll need to start finding out what aftermarket stuff is out there. I assume drop in coil/ignitor that's just more powerful? I've seen pics of guys with external boxes and other ignition components. I don't need to go to all of that do I?

 

What was that cheap ICM hack thinger?

I'm only going for 400 tops, I just don't want some ugly *** external coil in the engine bay

I always use MSD big wires and NGK iridium plugs, what is a good setup for someone staying stock distributor

 

If running aftermarket coil you need a box. Bigger coils just kill the igniter faster from my experience.

Theshodan turned me on to the summit box and I'm glad I went that route. Box is 135 crane coil is 68 and you can build an icm delete or I make and sell them. Flawless operation, proper plug gaps increase low end power from multispark ignition. Y icm delete is 70 shipped.

You could run an internal aftermarket coil and icm delete and ignition box if you don't want the big coil in your bay

 

Thanks. I'll have to google those parts and take a look. I can't go multi spark ignition though as the J&S Vampire I use pulls timing by increasing dwell on the ignition coil there by delaying the spark firing. Obviously a multi spark ignition system is attempting to ignite multiple times and would break that functionality.

 

I'm down to .016 lol.

I made the 710 on E98 on Stock ignition. I wouldn't say every car will do it, but i can say that i can't go higher without an ignition.

We have a car that made about 850whp on Stock ignition, but that was on a smaller motor, bigger turbo and different fuel.


I need to figure out what i am going to do with my ignition this year. I want to max out the 6262

 

I've been down to .015 to get me out of trouble.

 

We set every car on stock ignition to .013 its tight but there is still a gap... Sounds crazy but we have made 800+ on ef chassis and 650+ on eg chassis I have a theory on why the two are different but it probably sounds dumb lol.

 

I would like to hear it haha.

We have a theory too. I think it has to do with the compression/size of motor/size of turbo-spool and the fuel it runs.

One of our cars made 850whp on a 6768, stock ignition, 81.5mm motor on Q16.

 

Which fuel do you use when hitting 650 or 800 hp?
If you buy à digital 6 box with Hvc coil for exemple or summit box can you gap more than .013 or is it the distributor that limit the gap and HP?