What is this igniter box please?

 

gets rid of the ignitor and allows the ability to run aftermarket box. Not nessesary with an M&W but otherwise needed if taking out the ignitor.

My thing is if your spending thousands of dollars to build a high hp car why be a cheap *** and run stock weak ignition that just doesnt cut it. Some people have success but most dont. Its inexpensive to get a good ignition system when you look at the grand scheme of things. Everyone is always trying to cut corners, heck ive done it my self but there are certain things you dont cut corners on. IMO ignitoin is one of them. an engine needs fuel and air and spark to run three main ingedients why short change it.

My ignitor delete box has a gm style water resistant 4 pin connector now instead of the deutsch connector. I wasnt able to get a good deal on the deutsch connectors anymore so had to switch to something a little more economical. Just waiting for a shipment on the connectors and will finish building the ones i have in stock and a new picture will be taken.

 

I just want the cleanest engine bay possible. Don't like random **** in it

 

Oh stop being such a baby .. I thought you were Mr. "function over form"??. There are literally 30 different sized external coils you could use to have it work properly and still "look good". As for the ignition box itself, that can be wired through the file into the floor of the cabin.

Many of these lesser extent upgrades don't have the kilojoules to interfere with signals to a J&S knock sensor. The OEM components can work well, but if they were already worn, there's nothing wrong with replacement components from Summitt Racing or other aftermarket companies like Mallory or MSD (though i'm not the biggest MSD fan).

I personally use these components because such lower gapping has me go through plugs so much faster. i'm just not a wasteful person wanting to change plugs 3 times as often just because it can "cost less". I don't feel like doing it every couple months. when you gap that low, you go through plugs much more often. That's just a pain out of my day.. I'd rather be doing something else.

 

The PS92 is old news, and people say I need to get with the times...

 

No one in here telling you anything. The the ps92 coil is tried and true so why not use it ?not trying to recommend cutting edge high dollar components just something inexpensive that gets the job done right.

 

I made 721whp on e85 at 24lbs. Completely stock OEM coil and igniter and MSD wires, BKR7E plugs gapped at .020. Was on that setup for a while. I did notice that turned up the distributor was getting pretty warm. Ive also read plenty of stories of people making around 900whp on stock components.

 

I'm on all stock ignition. Haven't touched my distributor since I've had my motor. That's about 6years and 10000 miles boost.

 

Numbers in my Sig with Stock dizzy with an Accel aftermarket internal coil, NGK wires and fresh cap and rotor.

Before the coil the car was breaking up at .018 at 28lbs. After the coil in I put it at .020 and noticed more fuel was needed at lower boost levels and the car wasnt breaking up. Definitely improvement over stock without much testing. I just figured it couldn't hurt for $50.

 

Touchy, touchy... the LX92 or LX91 is the updated version and they are the same/around the same price.





To read more...

http://www.cranecams.com/view.php?s_id=16

 

It's not the joules of energy but rather the multiple sparks. The J&S uses the pulses from the coil to figure out RPM and which cylinder is firing and it also pulls timing by increasing dell on the coil there by delaying the spark. A multi spark system such as MSD would break that functionality.

I'm thinking an aftermarket internal coil and new plug wires is a good first step. I won't till better weather and going back to E85 and turning up the boost again. At lower boost on 91 pump I have no issues.

 

Your pretty hung up on this J&S gadget lol. Been tuning and running for years with no knock detection on pump gas, c16, ethanol now never had a problem. maybe theres a way around the multispark and still be able to run the J&S

 

Yeah get some nice NGK wires and an Accel coil

 

Normally yes :p

But the civic is just a slam/stance/poke daily driver that's less than an inch off the ground lol. I'm shaving and tucking the engine bay... although maybe I could mount the coil down low behind the motor on the subframe

 

This

 

I really don't like clutter.. at all

This is my s13s engine bay as an example

 

That's fine. Thought you were getting elitest on me for a while, there.

 

Haha never :p

I'm just wondering if a 400-450hp goal really requires any ignition upgrade at all? My distributor is off of a 99 Si with only 20k miles, it still has the assembly marks on all the screws..., so with a really fresh distributor, msd big reds and iridium plugs gapped down. Do I need an external coil and ICM bypass?

 

Prob won't need for a while. Could last years could last a year or a few months just one of those things.

 

Yea that's what I was thinking, won't know until I try it

 

Well I've tuned for years without one. I know the old school way. You'll either hear detonation which is bad because it's happening or you'll make highway pulls and cut the engine and coast off to the side, pull a hot plug and try not to burn yourself do an inspection or usually throw in another plug and drive to safe spot and inspect. If you see detonation, again, it's already happening which is not good. So you back off some timing. Where was it detonating exactly? was it 5k rpm, 6k? etc. Well you can experiment with a big pile of plugs and how long does that take? Not to mention once all said and done and you have it all dialed in it's for those specific conditions. Once weather cools or anything your tune can be off a little and it can be detonating some again.
Honestly after playing with the J&S and getting real time instant feed back of when the motor's attempting to detonate at the exact RPMS, conditions, engine load etc. it's freaking fantastic. And not only does it notify you but it removes just the amount of timing it needs to from the specific cylinder detonating to stop it. After tuning with a J&S I don't think I could ever go back to the old school way. It's like changing from AM radio to color TV lol.

That's what I'm thinking. Something is definitely deteriorating as I'm starting to feel the miss now even on pump gas with low boost. So something is going out, wires, coil, plugs or whatever. I guess I need to act on this faster than expected. I usually use summitracing.com for supplies, I'll check them out.

 

Show off

 

Thank you for the delete box. I m agree with you, I ve been spending thousand dollars into my engine and car and really need good ignition!
With this ignitor delete box which coil do you use? And how do you connect it to Oem harness?

 

its fairly simple to connect, I sell mine with comple te directions for wiring. YOu must run an ignition box with this setup though not just a coil. The coil will connect to the ignition box. Ignition box connects to the icm delete box and that connects to the ecu and power/ground

 

before i read the message i thought that was a s2k engine bay...just saying lol