Leak down test advice / Staged build advice
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Leak down test advice / Staged build advice
Not sure if this is the proper place to post this, but I figured for my turbo build I've been posting everything here already. Mods feel free to move if deemed necessary.
Anyway, I'm in the process of starting my turbo EM1 build. My have low compression in one cylinder as shown from power loss and a subsequent compression test (believe it's cylinder 2 if I remember correctly). I already plan on building the block and upgrading some of the head (springs, retainers, cams, valve seals, etc.)
What I'm wondering is if performing a leakdown test on the other cylinders which have good compression will give me an idea of whether or not I need to go deeper into the head (value guides, valves themselves, etc.). My original goal to just redo the head completely but some of my funds have gotten eaten up due to house repairs (master shower issues, which is going to result in redoing the whole shower).
I'm not one to skimp on anything as I prefer to just do it the right way from the get go, but for now it looks like sleeves are out of the question so I'll just do a fresh bore/hone with the new pistons/rods. I'm hoping I can get away, reliably, without having to send the entire head to a machine shop.
The other reason I ask is I've been debating doing some of the head work now while the engine is still in the car (cams, intake manifold, rail, throttle body, etc.) and get my base tune (Greddy Emanage Ultimate for passing emissions, OBD1 conversion once it's turboed for a full tune). I figured since rings are shot in one cylinder there isn't a huge chance of messing anything up further and I could work out some of the minor tune I need to drive the car to a proper tuner once all is said and done (i planned on pulling the wastegate spring and bov off for the drive to avoid any boost).
Opinions?
I know everyone here hates the Emanage/Ultimate but I only need it to compensate for the injectors, CTR cams, etc. to pass yearly emissions in PA. The rest of the time will be hondata/BBG/etc.
I was hoping doing some of these pieces in stages would help narrow down any issues. Build goals will be:
1. Head work (valve train, cams, IM, throttle body, injectors) make sure this is working properly.
2. Pull the engine, rebuild the block (extensive head work if necessary)
3. Break in period on mostly stock w/the base tune as indicated above
4. Turbo setup
5. Drive to tuner without wastegate spring/bov as to not make boost and keep things safe
6. Proper tune / End of story
Anyway, I'm in the process of starting my turbo EM1 build. My have low compression in one cylinder as shown from power loss and a subsequent compression test (believe it's cylinder 2 if I remember correctly). I already plan on building the block and upgrading some of the head (springs, retainers, cams, valve seals, etc.)
What I'm wondering is if performing a leakdown test on the other cylinders which have good compression will give me an idea of whether or not I need to go deeper into the head (value guides, valves themselves, etc.). My original goal to just redo the head completely but some of my funds have gotten eaten up due to house repairs (master shower issues, which is going to result in redoing the whole shower).
I'm not one to skimp on anything as I prefer to just do it the right way from the get go, but for now it looks like sleeves are out of the question so I'll just do a fresh bore/hone with the new pistons/rods. I'm hoping I can get away, reliably, without having to send the entire head to a machine shop.
The other reason I ask is I've been debating doing some of the head work now while the engine is still in the car (cams, intake manifold, rail, throttle body, etc.) and get my base tune (Greddy Emanage Ultimate for passing emissions, OBD1 conversion once it's turboed for a full tune). I figured since rings are shot in one cylinder there isn't a huge chance of messing anything up further and I could work out some of the minor tune I need to drive the car to a proper tuner once all is said and done (i planned on pulling the wastegate spring and bov off for the drive to avoid any boost).
Opinions?
I know everyone here hates the Emanage/Ultimate but I only need it to compensate for the injectors, CTR cams, etc. to pass yearly emissions in PA. The rest of the time will be hondata/BBG/etc.
I was hoping doing some of these pieces in stages would help narrow down any issues. Build goals will be:
1. Head work (valve train, cams, IM, throttle body, injectors) make sure this is working properly.
2. Pull the engine, rebuild the block (extensive head work if necessary)
3. Break in period on mostly stock w/the base tune as indicated above
4. Turbo setup
5. Drive to tuner without wastegate spring/bov as to not make boost and keep things safe
6. Proper tune / End of story
#2
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Re: Leak down test advice / Staged build advice
A leakdown test will help you pin point where the leaking compression is going. It may be a bent or poorly sealing valve which would save you a lot of work and money by rebuilding the bottom end for nothing. Its much cheaper and easier to have the head serviced than rebuild the entire bottom end. Find out if its rings or valves so you can make an educated decision.
I don't agree with your tuning/emission solution. If I am understanding you correctly you intend to buy Greddy Emanage solely for passing emissions, is that correct? I feel that's a big waste of money. Greddy Emanage is fine if you want it for your permanent tuning solution but not if you want to run Hondata 364 days a year. If that's the plan then just save your money and simply switch back the stock injectors, stock O2, stock Ecu etc. If you design your system properly the switch back is painless. Drive around for an hour, set the readiness monitors, go get inspected.
I don't agree with your tuning/emission solution. If I am understanding you correctly you intend to buy Greddy Emanage solely for passing emissions, is that correct? I feel that's a big waste of money. Greddy Emanage is fine if you want it for your permanent tuning solution but not if you want to run Hondata 364 days a year. If that's the plan then just save your money and simply switch back the stock injectors, stock O2, stock Ecu etc. If you design your system properly the switch back is painless. Drive around for an hour, set the readiness monitors, go get inspected.
#3
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Re: Leak down test advice / Staged build advice
I'm almost positive the rings are toast. Compression was extremely low (60 pts off or so) in the one cylinder and adding a small amount of oil brought it up close to the other three cylinders.
As for the Emanage Ultimate I already have it on a boomslang harness wired in. It's currently modifying parameters as I've only used it in the past to datalog and get a feel for the software.
Is it possible to use a stock ECU without throwing codes? I assumed lower compression pistons, CTR cams, IM, etc. would be enough to make it run like crap and fail. I really only have to pass the OBD2 scan here. No tail pipe test.
As for the Emanage Ultimate I already have it on a boomslang harness wired in. It's currently modifying parameters as I've only used it in the past to datalog and get a feel for the software.
Is it possible to use a stock ECU without throwing codes? I assumed lower compression pistons, CTR cams, IM, etc. would be enough to make it run like crap and fail. I really only have to pass the OBD2 scan here. No tail pipe test.
#4
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Re: Leak down test advice / Staged build advice
The stock ECU can handle all those modifications. Don't forget we're only talking about low load, not wot. The compression and manifolds won't affect it much, its the cams that could be an issue. However CTR cams are mild so they wont be an issue for the stock Ecu.
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