PM-Performance

I tried to start the car up tonight and it starts up , but real lopey and wont stay running. i was told since i converted to OBD1 i didnt need to reinstall the Crank Fluctuation sensor. So i didnt. This is the only other thing i can think that would be doing this. Could this be cuasing the prob? thw Hondata light just blinks on and off.
Any suggestions. i wanna try to drive this think home tommrow

Thanks

Bailhatch

you used an ODB1 distributer right? doesn't it throw codes still, pull them and find the problem the easy way. Guessing sucks

PM-Performance

nope its the OBD2 dist. the only thing that i changed to OBD1 was becuase of the Hondata with the harness. Other than that i was told i didnt need that Sensor becuase OBD1 didnt read it , but i found out tonight OBD1 has it in the Dist doesnt it ? I tried to pull the code and nothing coming up. not blnking, Just steady Cel.

DaveF

is your timing belt on correctly?

also, check the map sensor.

PM-Performance

yup, we rechecked the timing belt. , Ignition timing. tried with stock map and 3bar.same ****.
the only things i can think are either that CF sensor or the Program was F'ed up for some reason.

DaveF

obd1 and obd2 b series dist are the same, but have differant plugs on them..dunno if this helps..


was the car puffing black smoke while failing to idle??

Sprockets

iTrader: (6)

My idle and startup have been crazy since the Hondata was installed. The most problems I have are in very cold weather after the car has been driven and I park, then try to restart. It's intermittent, so I can't really figure out what's going on. Problems include stumbling idle when car is completely cold in the morning. I usually turn off the turbo timer and prime the fuel pump a couple of times, then it starts but doesn't idle very well. I drive off after 30 seconds and keep the rpms low till it's warmed up properly and don't have any problems till I come to a stop, then it might be almost ok (slightly high idle - above 1000 rpms), or when I come home after driving for a while and let the car cool down with the turbo timer, it surges up and down over and over and over and over, etc...then finally stabilizes to an almost bearable idle about 1100 rpms. This happens after the car has warmed up in cold weather and I come to a stop - it's really annoying! It seems like the more I drive my car in this weather, ie., on the highway for a while, the worse my idle problems are. Sometimes, the car didn't want to start at all when it was driven for a long time, then parked, then restarted in cold weather.

If it didn't run so well while driving, then I'd give up. I don't know what to do. What I've been told is that OBD 1 cars have fast idle valves and my car doesn't, so the idle may or may not be a problem. I don't know if you changed your intake manifold, but I switched mine to an ITR manifold and moved the IAT sensor to the manifold like several people have recommended before the Hondata was installed. I even put in a brand new idle air control valve. The only thing left is the throttle position sensor, and the tps voltage setting through Hondata. There is information on their website. Oh...and disconnecting the evap purge valve electrical connection was also mentioned in one of the archived posts. I've never heard of a crank fluctuation sensor. Forgive my ignorance, but what is that?

PM-Performance

I know the Hondata itself is good, ive been using it for a while now, i just gave m tuner specs and had him make me his base map to be safe .
the only things not plugged in on my motor now are evap purge, knock sensor, crank flucutation and i think thats it.
that senses the crank angle or something .I was told it only senses anything on start up

pornstarSR

i would say it needs it....CKF sensor

and if all you did was get a 0bd2 -obd1 conversion harness then it should take care of any wireing that isnt needed.

just put it on see if it helps

DaveF

ckf sensor isnt on obd1 cars though, so that would lead me to believe that it is not needed.

PM-Performance

well i put it back on today and it didnt solve the prob, i noticed on the Hondata box it was blinking like it wasnt interfacing. So i made my own generic base map and it cleaned it up alot, but not %100 solid yet, but i did drive it out of the shop onto the trailor , thne off the trailor into my garage after my new map. so i emialed my tuner to see if he can make me something more solid to break my clutch in and get it up to NY for him to tune

InTeGrA B18b1

is your does your lights get dim sometimes?

Joseph Davis

Dave is correct, there is no CF in OBD1, someone is confusing the CRANK sensor in the distributor. OBD1 and OBD2 distributors are all the same, FYI, the OBD2 dizzy plug is just the OBD1 unit "melted into one piece." I also don't think anyone saying it's the CF grasps how the OBD2 cars use the CF. :/

As far as rythmic fluctuation in idle goes, if it is a matter of 200-300 rpm I'd hazard coolant stuck in the TB. If more, I'd say FITV is carboned up or unscrewed.

If it's a wierd idle that is inconsistant and doesn't fluctuate rythmically... dunno, I have the same problem with a friend's OBD1 converted 91 Civic w/D16Z6. Changing fuel filter, taking more fuel out of the part throttle maps - further up them than you think you need to - and running MAP sensor vacuum hose to it's own dedicated manifold feed (instead of remote distribution block like everything else under the hood has) all helped but the car still idles, for lack of a better word, "muddy." If you find out what it is, please let me know.

PM-Performance

im pretty sure its the map i have in it , becuase 1st map was pretty bad, i then made another map a little diff and it cleaned it up quite a bit, but not perfect. still dont trust it to drive too much on. I talked to my tuner and he gave me a better way to make a base map so im gonna try that tonight and see how it goes. its driveable, but muddy. lumpy idle and weird accelerator response, kinda like laggy. its gotta be fueling.

DC2R714

Pete did you check the continuity of the ribbon from the blue box to the ecu?

PM-Performance

yea i did that was fine , like i said i cleaned it up a bit with a new map . i talked to collin he said maybe the burn didnt take on the chip, which is common for Hondata as we all know . or he forgot to put back to the older B series rather than the s200. he gave me instructions to make a better map thats not soo rich too. im gonna try that tonight. it sounds like its being wacky now due to too much fuel . 880's untuned on shitty plugs will prob do that .

Joseph Davis

You can tune your part throttle maps all day long off of cheap AF gauge and paying attention to how driveability changes as you tune. Having flat spots and/or bogging can be eliminated in a couple hours, as long as the idle isn't fouling the plugs dead I wouldn't worry about it and go out tuning it myself.

Also get a vacuum gauge (if you boost gauge doesn't double as one) and pay attention to how different rpm fluctuations effect engine vacuum. This is one of the things that exacerbate poor idle characteristics, it plays off of poorly set up low rpm maps, even past halfway up the part throttle mappings going toward boost.

Good luck with it, and if you run across anything wierd that leads to a fix, let us know... it does kinda sound like you have the same problem my friend does.

PM-Performance

a cheap A/F gauge will not help me , only a wideband will help me much . and maybe really looking at the plugs and such . this was just a map to get me to break in the clutch and get me to the tuner. i didnt expect much , but none of my other maps did this. so there was something prob wrong with it , im trying another map tonight.

Joseph Davis

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr206 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a cheap A/F gauge will not help me , only a wideband will help me </TD></TR></TABLE>

For tuning boost, yes you need a wideband. For part throttle driveability, no you do not. More or less stock timing exists in the part throttle range, so that is seldom an issue, just go through and use driveability and an el cheapo AF gauge as a pass/fail indicator to tune by.

Trust me, I get to do this all the time

PM-Performance

i dunno dude. i have an autometer and know for a fact its not accurate. but thanks for the tip.