98civic94gsr

Finally got around to finishing up my jrsc on my jdm gsr motor in my civic.

The jrsc manual says to set the timing to 7, or 10 with better gas. Well I can't even get it to 18(far left timing mark).

The problem is its idiling at 2-2.5 grand. The throttle cable is loose. Priorly I screwed the white plastic ring back into place on the fit valve I believe is what its called. Before I had jumpy idle that would go from 1.5 to 3 grand. Now it just kinda stays at 2.5 grand.

I only let it run for a couple of minutes. The temp gauge was going up but it wasn't halfway. Even not all the way warmed up it still shouldn't idle that high.

I'm worried to let it idle because it looks like the timing is at like 22 right now.

But maybe that is because of the high idle???

My wideband is reading 14.6-14-7 idiling.

I revved it up and it dropped to like 13.5 or so. I don't even know if that is bad or good. I guess I can search for that.

Also I took the valve cover off because when I first started it up I heard this loud noise that sounded like a spring(doing!) sound. I thought what the hell I'll check the valve springs. Visibly they looked fine. I touched them all and none seem broke.

Well I guess thats kinda useless info, anyways.

Cannot get car to idle at 750 to set timing.

Cannot retard timing past 22 or so.

That is with dist. all the way towards the front of the car.

I jumped service connector(no cells by the way) then start car and adjust dist., that is how I do it.


Well any input would greatly be appreciated.

In the meantime I'll start putting on the new bumpers, lips, sideskirts, and fenders.

Thanks guys,
98civic94gsr

98civic94gsr

I remember why I was talking about the valve cover. When I took it off I looked at the marks on the cam gears and they were lined up how they were supposed to be if that makes any difference with not being able to time it.

Also I went and started it again to let my friend here it run over the phone(yeah I've been calling all my friends and I noticed the idle was at 2.5 and it would do a quick jump up maybe 200 rpms and then right back down to 2.5. It would do this every 5-10 seconds or so. I revved it up a few more times and it still wouldn't drop the idle. Am I safe to to tottaly let it warm up with how the timing is?

I have it 90% retarded using the dist.

Also the wideband was reading 14.35-14.7 at idle.

Am I safe even though its reading way advanced? Is it just reading way advanced due to the high idle?

Do you think it might be possible to take it for a spin and try the boost out?

Well let me know what you guys think, very anxious to take it for a spin but don't want to hurt anything.

Thanks,
98civic94gsrjrsc

98civic94gsr

anybody have ideas?

98civic94gsr

Come on guys how do I fix my high idle?

sc4dr

There's a couple possibilities. One, you have a vacuum leak. Two, you have an air pocket in your coolant system. Three, your fast idle thermo valve is bad, or your idle screw on top of your throttle body is backed out way to far. When you say your throttle cable is loose I assume that means it has slack in it? When you line your crank pulleys WHITE mark up with the pointer on your timing belt cover are your cam gears straight up? And I don't mean the marks on your gears, I mean the keyway on the end of the cams, that could make a huge difference. If you have adjustable gears, every degree advanced on the intake cam, is a degree retarded at your distributor. Check these scenarios out and double check all your electrical connections. You need to get it to idle before you start tuning, and you don't have to jump your 2p connector for idle adjustment.

98civic94gsr

Well I started it up again and the idle is still surging. I got it up to operating temp. with the dist all the way to front of the car(fully retarded). If I hit the gas quick the afr goes to about 13.5. When I let off the gas it rises to about 16 and continues to rise until the guage says lean.

The spark plugs are white and look lean after letting it get to full operating temperature and then hitting the gas a few times.


Could this be due to a vacuum leak?

I wanna take it for a spin but am to worried.

98civic94gsr

sc4dr

If it won't idle, and you have your dizzy all the way retarded, don't drive it. Try raising your fuel pressure a couple psi if you think your running lean. Also, pull your air intake off and put your finger over the hole at the bottom of your throttle body(inside before the butterfly plate) if you feel suction after your car is at operating temperature, you need to replace your fast idle thermo valve.

98civic94gsr

"if it won't idle"

What do you mean by that? It will idle at like 1.5-2.5rpms.

I assume thats not good enough to drive it.

I really don't think it is the fast idle thermo valve. I turned the white round plastic peice into place recently, before it was backed out and idiling like it is now. I am sure it is fine though.

I can't adjust the psi because I don't have a fpr.

I thought I couldn't run an fpr along with an fmu. Can I?

I think I must have a vacuum leak that is screwing up my idle.

Could a vacuum leak also cause me to run lean at idle?


Thanks,
98civic94gsr

98civic94gsr

Damn car!

It doesn't leak coolant while its running but after I shut the car off and wait like 5-10 minutes it starts leaking really bad. Its leaking down the side of the oil seperator box and also down the header.

Hope its not the main water pipe.

Thanks again,
98civic94gsr

I feel like taking to a mechanic to get it running right.

sc4dr

good luck man, I know how it feels

Gojira D.O.T

if its the water pipe you can twist it around a little without removing anything and it will help get the o-rings seated better

98civic94gsr

Its gotta be. Its leaking on the thermostat side. I'll try and wiggle it.

It only seems to start leaking after I shut my car off and it sits for a minute or two.

Like pressure builds somewhere and it comes out.

I still can't figure out my vacuum leak. I got some starting fluid and sprayed it all over. The only place that spraying makes a difference is when I spray it around the large throttle body hole where you bolt a c.a.i too. But its suppose to thier.


The idle is surging or bouncing now. It goes from 1.5 -2.5 back and forth back and forth.

I did put my finger over the hole in the throttle body and it slightly helps. It would lower idle slightly.

I'll take the fitvalve cover off and see if that white plastic ring unscrewed itselft again.

I'm getting friggin discouraged with the damn coolant leak I can't get to or see and the damn vacuum leak I can't find or fix. Not to mention the timing is all the way retarded at the distributor and using my timing light it looks like its at about 25.

Well theirs a little more info for you great honda guys out thier. Does anybody live in northern michigan that wants to swing by the house. I can make it worth your while.

Thanks,
98civic94gsr

98civic94gsr

Alright I screwed the white wax ring back into place on the fitvalve....No Fix.


I took the 2 bolts holding the thermostat housing on to check the oring on the end of the main water pipe. The groove the oring sits in was rusted so I got the rust out and put her back together. Doesn't seem to leak anymore.

When I start the car up cold it will idle about 2 grand steady until its at operating temperature and then it starts bouncing from like 1.5-2.5 or so, back and forth back and forth.

When the idle drops to its lowest point my plx reads 17-20-Lean. When the idle is rising or at its highest point its back around 13-15. This is scaring me. Why is it reading lean when the idle drops low like that? I checked my plugs and the curved metal tip is white. The porcelian insulator around the middle metal post is brown except for on each and every plug it has one totally white spot on it. Thier is no "snow" or "crystals" though.

I hear no signs of detonation.

When my idle starts to bounce it reads lean and that scares me and I shut my car off probably after about 5 minutes. Maybe I'm not letting it run long enough to get the coolant bled properly. If that is the case should I just disregard the plx-m300 when it showing lean? Can I leave the car running as long as I don't hear any pinging or what?

If I unhook my iacv after the car is warmed up the idle drops to like 500 or so. It almost wants to die and then will revive itself. Also the idle is slightly bouncing with it unplugged. Like 500-600 real fast. A hell of a lot better than 1-3 or so.

How do I test the damn thing to see if its working properly? I know thier is a way.

Also I have messed with the idle screw on the throttle body which doesn't seem to do much. Hell how can I tell with the idle jumping so goshdarn bad.


expletive it I think I'll start it up and just go beat on it. I'm getting sick of this thing in the damn garage help me out, the weathers nice and their are few new pusstangs runnin' around town thinkin' their hot ****.


My friend has one of them phones with video on it. Maybe he can take a video of my car to show you guys the symptoms I'm having. Give me some phone numbers.

I've also spraying dubious amounts of "starting fluid" over the gaskets(intake,tb,iacv), all vacuum hoses and still can't find a leak. All hoses are brand new. **** is all tight. I do however hear a leak coming from the supercharges bypass valve at idle. Is this normal? I've spray fluid thier as well no change.

The only change is when I spray it into the tb and then the idle goes way down.
I know its suppose to thier though.

Well thier is a **** ton more info for you guys to decipher. Please please help me out with this,

TIA,
Aaron

Blackack26

Do you have a boost gauge? What is the vacuum reading at "idle"

Also, what are you using for engine management?

98civic94gsr

No I do not.

Well it still leaks coolant. Gosh Darnit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I feel air leaking around the supercharger bypass valve. Should I feel any air around the bypass hose? That short piece of hose from the supercharger to intake manifold?

Thanks,
98civic94gsr