notsolfast

Okay, I have a del sol with a jdm b16 in it. Stock internals, nothing done to it. I was able to pick up a Turbo fairly cheap so i did. I researched into piecing a kit together and this is what I have

-turbonetics t3 Turbo .57 trim I believe (57 stamped on cold side)
-deltagate external wastegate with manual boost controller
-vortec blow off valve
-dsm 450cc injectors
-walbro 255 (of course)
-intercooler, pipes and all oil lines.

Ill be having it tuned on chrome with a chipped ecu by innovative tuning. Would all of these work well with each other? Or should i change some parts while i still can. I have all winter. Thanks in advance

SiRCiviC94

sounds just fine, get some pics of what you have im intersted in the pipes.

id rec. a flex in the dp and a wideband and colder plugs but your tuner will know. what power goal ?

notsolfast

Ill post some pics tomorrow. I have a flex pipe in the dp, but I'm going to just have the exhaust out the fender. I'm hoping to get about 275whp. Plenty for the street.

jdmcivic2fast

that should work well for 275 horsey's, i have a similar turbo (garrett 57 trim) on a stock internal LSV pushing just 8 psi im making 300/230 @ the wheels in my 95 civic hatchback, very fun to drive, this thing takes out Camaro SS and Cobra's on highway all day!!

mikesrex

might want to throw in some ARP headstuds

notsolfast

Why should I upgrade my head studs?

kbouchard1092

Cause OEM headstuds cannot be torque as tight as a ARP stud, and there simply not as strong. Under boost the head will lift causing Headgasket like issues. Do not run OEM head studs

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

You can run the OEM ones fine as long as your power goals are reasonable. Until I built my engine, I was running a BONE STOCK head for over 7 years. Its all in your tune. If you plan on changing anything in the head which requires removal, only then would I change headstuds to ARP.

notsolfast

Do you think my power goal is too high for a stock b16?

kbouchard1092

No...but i think you should do ARP headstuds for piece of mind...that is a common issue. I agree if youre not taking the head off though then you probably dont need too until it becomes a issue, But it could save you a headache if you just do it now

notsolfast

Well the engine has about 40k on it and the body has 17k original on it. I'm changing the timing belt and water pump over winter. And the clutch too. And brakes. And paint haha I hope it'll be strong enough for a turbo

SiRCiviC94

if you like wrenching just do the head studs, and inspect the head for wear