slagman

Well, my CRX w/dohc zc built motor (rods,bearings,pistons,sleeves,valves, forged internals 58mm turbo etc.) decided to make a very loud noise and die today. I recently changed the distributor to try and clear a code 9 CYP sensor. It ran great but then I tried to retard the timing a little by moving the distributor a hair forward since it seemed a little chattery. Still ran ok but then as soon as I hit boost in 2nd the sound happened along with some massive backfiring. Nothing is leaking, haven't tested compression yet. It wont turn over just cranks a little then backfires. Maybe the timing is messed up now, valves? I don't know where to start just looking for some feedback before I have at it...

Chance EG

You should have gotten the motor timed properly with a light... What is your tune like? What EMS?

Compression test the engine to see what damage has already been done.

Dark_Teg

You don't move the distributor on a tuned car. When you move the distributor from where is was when it was tuned you throw the entire tune off. I bet #3 piston isn't too happy right about now.

slagman

Hondata s300, it needed a retune but I couldn't get rid of the CEL. I'm going to test the compression this weekend. I guess I learned the hard way about moving the distributor assuming thats what did it. Wouldn't there have been other signs if the timing were off prior to it blowing up?

Dark_Teg

Just like everyone else ever... my car ran just fine the pass before it blew up. Things tend to just "let go" on high rpm turbo cars.

Chance EG

Detonation at times can sound like a crumpling aluminum wrapping noise coming from the engine.

slagman

Well good news, the engine is fine. It was the new distributor, it literally cracked in half causing some nasty sounds. Put another one on and everything A OK. Still cant clear the CYP code though. Next route is the harness.

Chance EG

Time that new distributor with a timing light...

CandyRedRC46

You are very lucky, it didn't snap your timing belt.

B and B

iTrader: (3)

Sometimes between tunes (7-8 yrs here ) the dizzy must be removed for any number of maintenance reasons, or even replaced cuz of failure.
If you have the luxury of being able to note the timing in your tune with a light or data beforehand, I guess that's important to know and document while u can, for that day when we don't get any warning before an incident...like this one. Or else what? Retune?
I neglected to do this. I just put it back to stock mark after HG fix.. I really need to know more about tuning, goddamn.
I wonder how many people are still running old, blind systems like my S200 with no ability to datalog anyway (cuz no cable/software/lazy/ignorant)
PLX 02 sensor still in box, Jesus my car deserves better. Hard to believe nothing bad has happened from constant flogging, must be pig rich.
HG was cuz of blown bypass hose and overheat.
My boost is so low it's just a little more than ram air anyway
Hope to change that maybe this year.

2kdrift

in my experience, its best to set it at 16* (stock) and do all the timing within the tune itself, there's no issues with replacing dizzy just reinstall and use a timing light to set it back to 16

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Agreed.

B and B

iTrader: (3)

I assumed this was how it was done, but read this on Hondata

HOW TO TUNE AN ENGINE THE RIGHT WAY... by Jeff Schaefer

#1 Proper Break-In. Refer to break-in article HERE.

#2 What do I need to tune a car effectively? Good question Jeff, glad you asked that! lol. Here is a list of what you need:
-A Dyno of any kind,
-Second thing your going to need to tune a car is a second person. This person is your go-to guy, so to speak. He stays outside the car and takes orders from the guy inside the car with the laptop. He is also useful to adjust timing on the car, while the tuner inside the car with the laptop gets the car to idle properly.

..and started second guessing, never seen anyone move the dizzy during a tune tho, but mostly on video so could be edited out.

2kdrift

depends on tuner I guess, that comment would most likely be referring to moving timing gears (or possibly setting it to 16* before tuning has begun). Neither one of my tuners has ever moved the dizzy theres literally no reason to do this when its much easier to change timing with the click of a mouse on your laptop