wow, you guys are really being a bunch of douche bags. to those talking about boost selenoids and $400 tools, shut the hell up. sure he could have just gone on google and searched for the answer, but he decided to come on here instead and discuss this problem with some "intelegent" people who have infact installed boost gauges before.

for a step by step, go to Radio Shack and buy some wire taps for whatever gauge wire is on the boost gauge, then go to a hardware store, and find either a plastic or metal "T" fitting and some small hose clamps, thats it. when you get home, find the location in the car where you want to mount the gauge, feed the wires and tubing through the hole. remove your light switch for your parking/headlights and locate the wiring harness that is attached to it. use a multi-meter to find which one is power, then use a wire tap to connect your red wire, then put your light switch back into place. now, under the dash, find a bolt somewhere on the chassis, lossen the bolt, and attach your black wire to that. now turn your key to the "on" position and turn your headlights on, your gauge should now be illuminated. if it does no illuminate, than you tapped into the wrong wire on the headlight switch, or your ground is not good enough and you need to find another one.

now, if your gauge is illuminated, great. now for the vaccum line. find a way to route the vaccum line from inside of the car, into the engine bay. when you have done that, find a vaccum line that is already leading to the intake manifold, now cut into that vaccum line and install your "T" fitting. be sure to secure all ends with either clamps or zip ties. now start up the car and you should see roughly 17-20inhg of vaccum, now take it for a drive and be sure that it reads boost