hone tools?
what kind of honing tools do you guys use? im keeping my stock sleeve gsr block at 81mm cause im cheap. at my old job, we had the dingleberry ***** on a stick hone. i bought a 3 stone hone tool from autozone just the other day. i havent used the 3 stone yet, but i was wondering what everyone else uses and where i can get a dingleberry hone. thanks
honda does not reccomend using the dingleball hone as it can out of round the cylinders very easily......
also the 3 stone you got from autozone is probably to coarse...what grit are the stones? almost all those hones are not fine enough to do a finish hone....
also the 3 stone you got from autozone is probably to coarse...what grit are the stones? almost all those hones are not fine enough to do a finish hone....
i would send it to a machine shop. like they said the dingle ***** get the cylinders out of round very easily and there is no real way to get the correct cross hatch. i would send it to erl. they hone it for around $100-150 and get with 0-.0002 of your piston diameter.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleeper-ek »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would send it to a machine shop. like they said the dingle ***** get the cylinders out of round very easily and there is no real way to get the correct cross hatch. i would send it to erl. they hone it for around $100-150 and get with 0-.0002 of your piston diameter.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ive never had a problem with any motor ive assembled using the dingle berry hone to clean up the cylinders. even the erl blocks that we got (which 2 had cooling problems and 1 had a deck plate leak like a civ) were used and then rebuilt. i used the dingle ball hone on those, and they came out fine.
ive never had a problem with any motor ive assembled using the dingle berry hone to clean up the cylinders. even the erl blocks that we got (which 2 had cooling problems and 1 had a deck plate leak like a civ) were used and then rebuilt. i used the dingle ball hone on those, and they came out fine.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2SLO »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
ive never had a problem with any motor ive assembled using the dingle berry hone to clean up the cylinders. even the erl blocks that we got (which 2 had cooling problems and 1 had a deck plate leak like a civ) were used and then rebuilt. i used the dingle ball hone on those, and they came out fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>
sorry to hear about your bad experience with erl, how long ago did you have that problem because i know they have had a lot of research and development to try and prevent those things from happening. nothing wrong against the dingle berry method i'm just saying i guarentee a motor that is straight up and down with .0002 tolerance will run a little better then one that is honed with an electric drill and a flimsy rod.
ive never had a problem with any motor ive assembled using the dingle berry hone to clean up the cylinders. even the erl blocks that we got (which 2 had cooling problems and 1 had a deck plate leak like a civ) were used and then rebuilt. i used the dingle ball hone on those, and they came out fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>
sorry to hear about your bad experience with erl, how long ago did you have that problem because i know they have had a lot of research and development to try and prevent those things from happening. nothing wrong against the dingle berry method i'm just saying i guarentee a motor that is straight up and down with .0002 tolerance will run a little better then one that is honed with an electric drill and a flimsy rod.
ah it was about a year ago, one was a b16, one an h22, and the deckplated engine was a gsr. im sure theyve gotten their stuff better since, but from my personal experience, i wouldnt use their stuff.
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