thats bul-****
bearings do not wear.......

u can take a stock bottom end b16 to 10k all day
i bet when we blow the test motor b16 the bearings will look brand new and its seen 10 at least 80+times.....

 

i think he has seen the same problems we have
it s not the crank its the rod ratio

 

........

 

RPM and torque.. It goes hand in hand.

What's this whole argument about anyways? You make torque, and torque is horsepower @ said RPM. 5252 RPM, torque and HP is always equal obviously and we all know that already.

Bearings take a beating when you make power. Again, to make lots of HP, must come with some sort of torque. Our useable redline on stock sleeved motors is around 9k RPM. Anything more, then the block may not hold it due to other vibrational or lateral stresses. Unless you have other means of structural rigidity, like a full girdle, billet main caps, lightweight rods and so forth.

More torque, more pressure and stress on the bearings. Then it also wears faster, and also more prone to bearing problems. That's why we also want plenty of oil pressure on boosted builds and they like thicker oil. Anything less, oil squishes out and bearings take a beating due to more pressure on the bearings from downward forces aka torque. You can probably spin 10k RPM on a 250 WHP stock sleeved B16A , but not so true anymore if it was a 500 WHP setup.

There is nothing better than our OEM Honda cranks. Bearing failure increases as you have a shorter rod and longer stroke. Bearing lasts longer with a very friendly R/S, like a B16B for example.

Our Hondas make horsepower through RPM. If we all cut our redlines down to 6200RPM, you won't even see one stock sleeved motor making more than 500 WHP. So use up all the redline available, and make efficient power up there. There is no such thing as a low revving turbo Honda that is fast and reliable. It has to rev.

 

i like it

 

no im talking about 400+whp b16 at 10k
it does not throw bearings
but a gsr or ls will break your heart taking it to 10k.....

and we have a test motor with vides of races and a **** load of dynos to prove it!

 

You know, it doesn't move away from my earlier post. I have no idea why you've quoted by post anyhow. I have already talked about R/S, such as a B16B can be revved out even further due to a better R/S than a B16A.

400 WHP B16A @ 10k RPM = 210 lbft of torque if you make peak HP at that redline.

You can probably still spin a GSR at 10K RPM if it makes that little torque, but most B18's cannot breathe at that high of a RPM without extensive head upgrades. Just like a lot of the N/A built B18's, they touch 10k all the time and even goes through endurance races, but an N/A GSR is only seeing 150-160 lbft of torque at most.

I've spun my GSR at 9800RPM on stock sleeves with my old GT28RS setup with ITB's, headwork, etc.. for about a year, but key being that I was only making 280-300 WHP. Torque was only around 200 ish.

Power does determine how high you can rev without destroying bearings, and it is a true trade off between peak torque vs RPM. Overall power would still be the main deciding factor on a Honda, when we speak of the different strokes and R/S available commonly and the amount of stress the crank and bearings go through. The difference between a B18 GSR and a B16A in terms of R/S, does not offset for eg: 50-60 lft of torque force difference acted on the crank at the same redline.

That's why I said, even though the B16 seems to be so rev happy, it will still destroy bearings if it was a 500+ WHP B16 setup without taking the extra precautions.

 

I'm about to purchase a Fluidampr street pulley as reliability is TOP on my list. Could you go into more detail on the highlighted and make some suggestions? Or point me to where I could do some further reading on the options?