GO-FIGHT-KILL

I searched, I couldn't find anything too useful.

I'm starting some building plans for my boosted Type-R. For now, it's simple, GReddy kit, 6psi on stock engine. But in months, I'm planning this:

-Eagle 95mm crank
-Eagle 134mm rods (B16 length)
-81mm 10.5:1CR JE pistons

So the plan is 2.0liter on stock bore (i.e Stock sleeves), with similar to stock CR (Response, and if I ever decide to go back to all motor, I'll still have some CR to work with, without tearing the engine back apart. Single layer headgasket, some head milling, and I'd be in good shape for some lopey cams), with 12psi or so.

I really don't want to drop the dime on sleeves, as I'm not looking to exceed 400whp maximum... I'll be running around on 250whp on the streets. So there's no point for sleeves. I just want the torque of 2.0liters.

However, is the Rod/Stroke something to be concerned about? Will there be a problem there? Would I still be ok to turn to 8,700RPM SAFELY? Also, what oil pan would I have to run with such a large crank, Moroso?

Any input is appreciated.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I searched, I couldn't find anything too useful.

I'm starting some building plans for my boosted Type-R. For now, it's simple, GReddy kit, 6psi on stock engine. But in months, I'm planning this:

-Eagle 95mm crank
-Eagle 134mm rods (B16 length)
-81mm 10.5:1CR JE pistons

So the plan is 2.0liter on stock bore (i.e Stock sleeves), with similar to stock CR (Response, and if I ever decide to go back to all motor, I'll still have some CR to work with, without tearing the engine back apart. Single layer headgasket, some head milling, and I'd be in good shape for some lopey cams), with 12psi or so.

I really don't want to drop the dime on sleeves, as I'm not looking to exceed 400whp maximum... I'll be running around on 250whp on the streets. So there's no point for sleeves. I just want the torque of 2.0liters.

However, is the Rod/Stroke something to be concerned about? Will there be a problem there? Would I still be ok to turn to 8,700RPM SAFELY? Also, what oil pan would I have to run with such a large crank, Moroso?

Any input is appreciated. </TD></TR></TABLE>

For 250whp and boost like that, no. That's really only a concern for a lot of high revving applications. that's no worry whatsoever.

GO-FIGHT-KILL

Cool.

So 8,700RPM would still be no problem at all? And what oil pan would I have to run with that crank?

Chris Tune

oil pan... stock... why would u need anything bigger?

HiProfile

You may be able to hit 8700rpm, but who's to say you'll make power up there? Your piston speeds will be worse than that of an H23 due to the R/S. You will find out that [low-end] torque is overrated on a high revving dohc motor running lots of boost. I can't find a silver bullet in your setup to dissuade you, but a sleeved 1.6L is by FAR more useful than a stock-sleeve 81mm 2.0L.

IMO you should really think about using the stock parts, resleeving, and just buying a small turbo atm, then a larger one later. You'll find you have no need for displacement with a turbo that's making 250whp at 15psi, and couldn't give two ***** about low-end torque when you can downshift and make 300wtq with the larger turbo on.

I don't mean to sound like an ***, but you really should drive as similar a build as you can before you make a decision on paper. Keep an open mind to the possibilities, and you'll end up happy.

GO-FIGHT-KILL

I remember hearing that GSR/Type-R cranks come quite close to the stock oil pan... I wasn't sure if the added 7.8mm would make a difference. And I'm not even sure if my original statement is even true, haha. So I just thought I'd ask.

Chris Tune

wow.. kill whoever sayed that.. the oil pan is like 1/2 a foot from the crank the things that can get you trouble if any are the oil squirters, and maybe is the baffle which i HIGHLY doubt.

GO-FIGHT-KILL

Well the stock oil squirters need to be bent back for even 89mm stroke... So 95mm, uhhhhh, haha.

It's best to remove them with forged internals anyway, so they'll be finding their way out.

Chris Tune

thats why i said that the oil squirters might give you trouble... i usually just toss them

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You may be able to hit 8700rpm, but who's to say you'll make power up there? Your piston speeds will be worse than that of an H23 due to the R/S. You will find out that [low-end] torque is overrated on a high revving dohc motor running lots of boost. I can't find a silver bullet in your setup to dissuade you, but a sleeved 1.6L is by FAR more useful than a stock-sleeve 81mm 2.0L.

IMO you should really think about using the stock parts, resleeving, and just buying a small turbo atm, then a larger one later. You'll find you have no need for displacement with a turbo that's making 250whp at 15psi, and couldn't give two ***** about low-end torque when you can downshift and make 300wtq with the larger turbo on.

I don't mean to sound like an ***, but you really should drive as similar a build as you can before you make a decision on paper. Keep an open mind to the possibilities, and you'll end up happy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was afraid if he was going to slippery slope that.. Going 8700rpms just to try and make power when a more efficient turbo is used is a much better plan. HiProfile is right on this one, experience makes a difference, so look at builds and power levels that are more for your needs, and don't worry about the calculations of R/S ratio. Being overly safe, Keeping it Simple, and going with what works for you is the best way about going about your project

GO-FIGHT-KILL

Good information.

I don't know how I skipped over HiProfile's post, I didn't see it until now. That's why I created this thread, to see if the components I had in mind would be a problem, or even necessary.

I think when it comes time to build the engine (Not for a while, hopefully), I'll either do a ***** out build, or stock length forged rods and forged pistons, with stock stroke/bore, on stock sleeves. That'll be fine for the power level I'm looking for.

Thanks for the information guys.

0morgan@synapse motorsport

if your motor is healthy, theres no reason you couldnt make ~400whp/275-300wtq with a stock sleeved built block. on stock type r head and tranny.

my buddy runs this setup, its working great for him. we just made 496whp/353wtq on it, so far bested a 11.0 at the track soon to be faster.

the money spent on an aftermarket crank could be better spent elsewhere imo, almost everyone here will tell you the same.

JDogg

yeah, save the money on the crank and sleeve the block

short rods work very well and make really good power (the last short rod.. 89mm crank, crower 5.276inch rods.. motor i did made 340hp on 8psi and 480 at 20psi on pump gas, stock b16 head and cams). yours will be even worse than this one w/the 95mm crank.

i would not do that setup with stock sleeves, it stresses the sleeves even more and 250hp on a turbo is still pretty slow and you're gona want more. i wont recomend over 350 on stock sleeves, especially w/that setup. Also make sure whoever builds it KNOWS what they are doing or it wont last

i dont like big cranks in daily driver/street cars.

93supercoupe

to the OP:Uve been blessed w/ some good info from some VERY reliable sources, so listen to them and have fun.

GO-FIGHT-KILL

^ Sure have been. I appreciate the help guys, that's why I asked.

EARLdaSQUIRREL

if your wanting all that tq just go with ls crank/rods and a smaller turbo for around 250-350hp a gt28rs would be perfect and have plenty of low end and will flow very well in the high rpm's