What do I need to pay attention to to be able to spin my stock sleeve b18c to 9500rpm and higher..reliably. Going drag racing

crank? crank pulley? clearances? valvetrain?

I'm looking for some specifics. Looking to make 500 - 530 on the stock sleeves with efficiency vs brute force.

setup so far:

b18c block
cp pistons
manley rods
arp mains, arp headstuds
acl rod, main, thrust
b16 head - mild headwork
victor X
id1000s
skunk2 tuner 2 cams
precision 6262 t4 .58 a/r
supertech turbo valvesprings/retainers
supertech black nitride valves

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

your block is not going to last on stock sleeves

 

Oh it can last, but it has to be an emaculate tune!!! About 500-520 seems to be the reliable limit for stock sleeves even with a good tune, and the word reliable is stressed here! LOL

 

Way to totally answer the question of the op bro

 

Car will run on wastegate pressure daily on pump gas, 500 - 530 on c16 maybe four times a year.

I've seen it done @ 550 running for over a year with a simpler setup, this just needs to last until I have my $$ saved up for ERL to build my 84mm sleeved block.

Anyway back to the high rpm issue. Suggestions?

 

i hear alot of people doing 9800........
but no one wants to share

 

RPM can be just as detrimental to stock sleeve life as the power level can be, if you dont need to rev it that high personally I wouldnt if you want it to last somewhat, every engine is different... 500 reliable stock sleeve hp is already alot to ask, assuming your 81.5mm?

If your on a 24.5" tire with a GSR tranny your not going to need to rev much past 9k at that power level anyway.

 

Get some supertech springs and retainers. Might have to rethink the hotside a/r sounds like its definitely gonna choke you out before 9500.

 

the sleeves can take the rpm
it s the crank

we re doing 10k on a stock b16 @ 518whp
snap a crower cams and found the bottom end is still in mint condition lol......

 

What are standard cranks good for?

 

i ran mine standars crank making 650/408 on it reving it to 8900

alot of people stick with stock cranks because they are strong

 

I would be putting some form of damper, whether it be a fluidamper or something else.

It's really not the cranks, they're fine. It has to do with stresses on the bearings, oil pump being able to keep up, any kind of detonation or preignition that may occur, etc etc etc. You're going to need to keep unnatural vibrations to a minimum (which is why you use the harmonic dampener), make sure oil flow is good, and if you detonate at those RPMs you can kiss your bearings goodbye before long.

Might I also point out that there is absolutely no point in pushing the engine that high if you're not making power all the way up there. Revs kill engines, exponentially.

 

There is nothing wrong with the stock crank, they are in motors making over 1200hp/11k+ rpm...

 

no point in pushing the engine that high if you're not making power all the way up there

this is an awsome bit of advice the dyno will show you at what rpm you will stop making power by the sudden drop off thats where you stop, and if you keep pushing pas that it doesnt matter one bit your tapped out like your build is.

 

Stock sleeves won't be able to withstand 9500RPM and big power at the same time.

As you go higher on the RPM's, the block will flex and the sleeves will walk, then eventually, cracking them very shortly.

Choose to either make big power but keep the revs low, or go conservative on the power but higher redline. You can't have both reliably.

 

never thought of it that way...thought I'd be putting less stress on the block by keeping the torque lower and just spinning the motor higher to make the power.

I suppose I will stick with 9000rpm then.

@xohcef - I was told that .58 t4 is similar to a .82 t3..wouldn't have thought it would have become a limitation for a 1800cc motor at 9500.

 

I agree completely...I've modeled some of my setup off of gringo's stock sleeve build...as my goals are similar...read somewhere where he said he was spinning it to 9800rpm at the track...so I thought I'd look into what it would take to spin the motor up there safely before I start investigating ways to make power that high

 

everything looks good in my opinion. just no reason to turn over 9200.... sure theres stuff to change but youll be alright with a goooood tune. the stock rods and pistons are the weak link on them.

 

Damn I didnt know that. I'm on a t3 trip anyway. Run one on my single cam didn't know there was a big difference between t3/4

 

what would you change?

 

that don t last and have to mantain the bearings...........

 

Hate to burst your bubble, but bearings are a wear item that need to be maintained no matter what crank is in the motor.

By your reply your stating there is a better crank out there for us.... I have yet to lay eyes on it, care to share your info with us?

 

i think he means changed often at that high of horsepower. i think i read article once where jeff evans was planning on changeing bearings every 2k miles in an engine he was building for himself.

 

It's true to a certain extent... It is good to keep the torque low and make the power higher, but stock sleeves start running into problems past 9k RPM usually, and it is also dependant on the stroke (LS or B20 crank for example).

Power related failure usually has a warning and comes with detonation or aggressive tune. But RPM failure has little warning, and it is better not to attempt it with too high of a redline IMO.

 

How do you figure the stock cranks dont last? There stronger then just about everything else out there for a honda engine except the big big dollar cranks. at 500whp the stock crank isnt going to be a problem at all. To the OP dont beso hung up on rpm. be sure bearing clearences are spot on, the engine is built well and the tune is spot on and reach your power goal. i it means you only rev to 8700 then thats all you rev to. RPM isnt the deciding factor in power production is proper setup and tune and engine capabilities