help....all BOV's sound the same.
I'm probably hearing wastegate flutter over the bov, but no matter what bov I put on this car it just sounds like fluttering air. I hate it. Any suggestions?
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what kind of turbo setup are you running (turbo size, wastegate size, manifold design, power levels?) this will help us properly pick a valve that works
first off, stay away from any eBay/chinese valves, they are pure ****
what valves have you tried so far? have you tried adjusting spring tension using the adjuster? does the valve have its own dedicated pressure source? I.e. not shared with the fpr or boost gauge?
most of the time it comes down to what spring is in the valve (if the model has optional springs) and how they are adjusted
first off, stay away from any eBay/chinese valves, they are pure ****
what valves have you tried so far? have you tried adjusting spring tension using the adjuster? does the valve have its own dedicated pressure source? I.e. not shared with the fpr or boost gauge?
most of the time it comes down to what spring is in the valve (if the model has optional springs) and how they are adjusted
Yeah if your getting flutter then you should check your spring tension. If its not adjustable then you might have to change the spring. I have two boosted cars one with an HKS and the other with a tial Q. The really don't sound the same at all. The flutter your hearing us usually coming from the filter because of compressor surge. If you don't want to deal with adjustments or spring changes your best options are a HKS or Synapse. They both hold closed tighter with boost and don't require adjustment and work good up to about 30-35psi. The Synapse might even hold more. Also, the HKS whistles loudly and the Synapse just sounds like an air rush.
This.
What "flutter" are you referring to, OP?
Most people use that term to describe the sound a turbo makes when the blow off valve does not release any air, or not enough.
You will damage the turbo if you continue this.
What "flutter" are you referring to, OP?
Most people use that term to describe the sound a turbo makes when the blow off valve does not release any air, or not enough.
You will damage the turbo if you continue this.
if you dont like bov noise you should have gone all motor or nitrous.
because any higher hp application is going to create a noticeably distinct noise you cant avoid without problems..
because any higher hp application is going to create a noticeably distinct noise you cant avoid without problems..
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I like the Tial BOV because you can tweak it with different springs. Mine came with the a -7psi spring (black) and I swapped it for the -9psi (white) spring. This solved my compressor surge/flutter at light boost blow offs.
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most people experience surge or flutter when at or slightly above the positive pressure transition, right before you actually make boost, there's enough airflow to stall the compressor but not open the valve
All good info... my set up is...don't make fun of me... but my set up is an emusa turbo .57 trim, and an emusa wastegate, 38 mm. on about 10 psi. LS vtec with a built block.. I've had 2 different eBay bov's, and now I am running a turbo xs bov. I have also heard that vacuum line size can affect this.
I personally had this problem when i was running my bov tee'd off the fpr line...not enough pressure to open the bov being tee'd and tiny hose...ii deleted my stock pcv valve and used that port with a fat hose as a dedicated port and it has been working flawlessly since
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the turbo xs piston type blow off valves leak like a bitch, just fyi
I know those have an adjuster on top for adjusting spring preload, you need to back it off to the point that when you free rev and let off (out of boost) that the valve opens. that's how you'll know it's adjusted properly.
I had to do this adjustment to countless friends and their 240s, had the valves way too tight, on all of them adjusting them like I state above solved the issues... this was with numerous valves from arc gtr units to Greddy type s bovs.
I know those have an adjuster on top for adjusting spring preload, you need to back it off to the point that when you free rev and let off (out of boost) that the valve opens. that's how you'll know it's adjusted properly.
I had to do this adjustment to countless friends and their 240s, had the valves way too tight, on all of them adjusting them like I state above solved the issues... this was with numerous valves from arc gtr units to Greddy type s bovs.
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also, with ebay/chinese turbos compressor surge is a much bigger deal than with quality name brand turbos. this is due to poor material qualities, poor assembly methods, almost non existent balancing practices, and a total lack of any quality control methods
I've personally seen one, literally one, good compressor surge event destroy everything from the thrust bearing assembly, causing immediate bearing and seal failure to one turbo actually cracking almost every blade on the compressor wheel at the hub
so be careful because if you don't get this fixed soon, you'll be looking for another turbo sooner than later.
I've personally seen one, literally one, good compressor surge event destroy everything from the thrust bearing assembly, causing immediate bearing and seal failure to one turbo actually cracking almost every blade on the compressor wheel at the hub
so be careful because if you don't get this fixed soon, you'll be looking for another turbo sooner than later.
Again, its going to do that regardless with just over positive pressure partial throttle body movement. On the less quality valves its just more prevalent. doesn't necessarily mean compressor "surge", just means a slight opening event. Nature of the beast.. Run it recirculating if it bugs you that badly.
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From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
also the turbo xs valves, especially the rfl (what im betting you have) will start to flutter after it blows off and starts to close, the trumpet amplifies it even more
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