h-t afc hack info
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quade »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone know if 440cc Nissan GTIr injectors will work in the prelude H22A?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i kno i tried my buddy's SR20DET injectors and they're shaped differently, a little bigger than our's, you could bore out your manifold to fit them or something, but that just wouldn't be worth it.
i kno i tried my buddy's SR20DET injectors and they're shaped differently, a little bigger than our's, you could bore out your manifold to fit them or something, but that just wouldn't be worth it.
Just wanted to say that i spent the last 45mins reading nearly all of this thread and im not even boosted yet! I plan on purchasing a greddy kit for my zc within the next 3-4months and run 7psi daily driven. Now do i ditch the blue box and injectors for the safc and dsm injectors? Or would i just be fine running the greddy kit @ 7psi?? Anyways, to all that have contributed to this thread
-Jared
-Jared
wait a sec. Apparently retarding the distributor back doesn't work very well.
BUt does the ECU advance timing exponetially when it reaches higher RPM's or no?
Cuz if this were the case, a little retarding at idle would have a larger effect up top.
ANYONE KNOW????
it would seem like it
BUt does the ECU advance timing exponetially when it reaches higher RPM's or no?
Cuz if this were the case, a little retarding at idle would have a larger effect up top.
ANYONE KNOW????
it would seem like it
the values stored in the ecu are in addition to the base timing at the distributor, ie 16 + 16.02.. 16 + 23.. 16 + 39, etc. you retard 2 and you only take 2 off the whole map, ie 14 + 16.02, 14 + 23, 14 + 39, etc.
heres an example of a pm6 map using the now defunct ghettodyne
as you can see ignition ranges from 16 to 36. the advance occurs because by scaling the map signal, you effectively only use the left part of the map for the entire rpm range. notice that your high end now resides in the RED zone instead of yellow.
copy and paste http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg for a clearer view.
fyi ghettodyne is unfortunately no longer available, but turboef9 is doing a great job accepting the torch and you can use TurboEDIT to view roms at his site here http://www.driftkids.com/editor/index.php
heres an example of a pm6 map using the now defunct ghettodyne
as you can see ignition ranges from 16 to 36. the advance occurs because by scaling the map signal, you effectively only use the left part of the map for the entire rpm range. notice that your high end now resides in the RED zone instead of yellow.
copy and paste http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg for a clearer view.
fyi ghettodyne is unfortunately no longer available, but turboef9 is doing a great job accepting the torch and you can use TurboEDIT to view roms at his site here http://www.driftkids.com/editor/index.php
The timing problem is at the LOW END building up boost, not WOT full boost..
Like.... Lets say your cruising and a school bus wants to race. you don't drop it into 2nd gear and go F&F style. You just stay in 4th and lean on the throttle ( not even flooring it ). When the boost comes on, its a problem b/c the car is advancing the timing, and your adding boost. If you were to go "F&F style", grab 2nd and floor it, the ecu goes into a different setting and everything is different and your fine. If you think about it, its kinda cool... Its better to beat on your motor harder than to take it easy on it !!!
Like.... Lets say your cruising and a school bus wants to race. you don't drop it into 2nd gear and go F&F style. You just stay in 4th and lean on the throttle ( not even flooring it ). When the boost comes on, its a problem b/c the car is advancing the timing, and your adding boost. If you were to go "F&F style", grab 2nd and floor it, the ecu goes into a different setting and everything is different and your fine. If you think about it, its kinda cool... Its better to beat on your motor harder than to take it easy on it !!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89dxhunchback »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The timing problem is at the LOW END building up boost, not WOT full boost..
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um so you dont have a problem with running more timing in wot boost when others are spending hundreds of dollars to remove it?
i think what youre referring to is closed loop boost- which is why im not boosted yet. (boost under 80% throttle, where air/fuel is determined with readings from the o2 sensor to shoot for 14.7:1- dangerously lean).
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um so you dont have a problem with running more timing in wot boost when others are spending hundreds of dollars to remove it?
i think what youre referring to is closed loop boost- which is why im not boosted yet. (boost under 80% throttle, where air/fuel is determined with readings from the o2 sensor to shoot for 14.7:1- dangerously lean).
Talking about me..... I could careless about it increasing timing at ANY point.. I have 8.4/1 compression..
High timing, 87 oct., 25psi, tdo4 turbo, no intercooler !!! I can do it all !!! J/K...
But in my personal set-up, timing isn't a problem...
High timing, 87 oct., 25psi, tdo4 turbo, no intercooler !!! I can do it all !!! J/K...
But in my personal set-up, timing isn't a problem...
would i run into probs running a greddy kit with the safc mod & dsm injectors or should i just use what comes with the kit............
i already have a FPR installed.
for daily driving at 7psi.......
thanx
i already have a FPR installed.
for daily driving at 7psi.......
thanx
alot of greddy turbo owners already run this system. and most greddy owners get rid of the blue box and injectors that comes with there kits. I just tried it on my b16a turbo, works great
Sorry but i have read about as much as this as i can stand. Here's my question(s)
with the afc hack can i run my 310 injectors with inline fuel pump and fmu? Or should i ditch both and get the 450's, or get 450's and keep both? Is fmu going to cause any problems with the hack or should i just keep it in there because i already have it? thanks.
with the afc hack can i run my 310 injectors with inline fuel pump and fmu? Or should i ditch both and get the 450's, or get 450's and keep both? Is fmu going to cause any problems with the hack or should i just keep it in there because i already have it? thanks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89dxhunchback »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The timing problem is at the LOW END building up boost, not WOT full boost..
Like.... Lets say your cruising and a school bus wants to race. you don't drop it into 2nd gear and go F&F style. You just stay in 4th and lean on the throttle ( not even flooring it ). When the boost comes on, its a problem b/c the car is advancing the timing, and your adding boost. If you were to go "F&F style", grab 2nd and floor it, the ecu goes into a different setting and everything is different and your fine. If you think about it, its kinda cool... Its better to beat on your motor harder than to take it easy on it !!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
no. say you are pulling -35% out of hte hack and boosting 7psi. this will give you teh value at 13.5psi or 13.5/14.7atm... this is going to be a value LESS than say the value you would pull at WOT, which is 1atm or 14.7psi. becasue of this a few degrees of timing will be added in addition to the base timing one would normally have at wot. Also you cant do any BTM style retarding with the hack. Why would you spend $300 on a unit that manipulates map voltatge to get a fuel value and ignition value when you can have a programmable system (uberdata) for less? makes no sense.
Like.... Lets say your cruising and a school bus wants to race. you don't drop it into 2nd gear and go F&F style. You just stay in 4th and lean on the throttle ( not even flooring it ). When the boost comes on, its a problem b/c the car is advancing the timing, and your adding boost. If you were to go "F&F style", grab 2nd and floor it, the ecu goes into a different setting and everything is different and your fine. If you think about it, its kinda cool... Its better to beat on your motor harder than to take it easy on it !!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
no. say you are pulling -35% out of hte hack and boosting 7psi. this will give you teh value at 13.5psi or 13.5/14.7atm... this is going to be a value LESS than say the value you would pull at WOT, which is 1atm or 14.7psi. becasue of this a few degrees of timing will be added in addition to the base timing one would normally have at wot. Also you cant do any BTM style retarding with the hack. Why would you spend $300 on a unit that manipulates map voltatge to get a fuel value and ignition value when you can have a programmable system (uberdata) for less? makes no sense.
I am in the process of installing my turbo now> And i was about to order the msd 6 BTM (because that will take care of my skunk2 chip in my ecu, the advanced timing part anyway) But i was also going to try the hack when we got it all in. So your saying that you cant use the BTM with the AFC hack? More info would be appreciated> I am trying to understand it. thanks.
from what i have been hearing, no one where i am from knows how to tune hondata. Plus i know very little about it, and would probably rather go with something the people i know, know how to mess with. besides just wasting my money do you seen any other reason not to get msd with the hack?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94goldjungsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
no. say you are pulling -35% out of hte hack and boosting 7psi. this will give you teh value at 13.5psi or 13.5/14.7atm... this is going to be a value LESS than say the value you would pull at WOT, which is 1atm or 14.7psi. becasue of this a few degrees of timing will be added in addition to the base timing one would normally have at wot. Also you cant do any BTM style retarding with the hack. Why would you spend $300 on a unit that manipulates map voltatge to get a fuel value and ignition value when you can have a programmable system (uberdata) for less? makes no sense.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok that made like no sense whatsoever, but i think we're all on the same track
no. say you are pulling -35% out of hte hack and boosting 7psi. this will give you teh value at 13.5psi or 13.5/14.7atm... this is going to be a value LESS than say the value you would pull at WOT, which is 1atm or 14.7psi. becasue of this a few degrees of timing will be added in addition to the base timing one would normally have at wot. Also you cant do any BTM style retarding with the hack. Why would you spend $300 on a unit that manipulates map voltatge to get a fuel value and ignition value when you can have a programmable system (uberdata) for less? makes no sense.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok that made like no sense whatsoever, but i think we're all on the same track
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16Tcivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">from what i have been hearing, no one where i am from knows how to tune hondata. Plus i know very little about it, and would probably rather go with something the people i know, know how to mess with. besides just wasting my money do you seen any other reason not to get msd with the hack?</TD></TR></TABLE>
tuning hondata is one of hte most overrated things in the world. make a rich basemap, take out fuel. keep timing conservative. guaruntee you will make power. "tuners" are imho very overrated! but honda-tech isnt a good place to express that opinion
tuning hondata is one of hte most overrated things in the world. make a rich basemap, take out fuel. keep timing conservative. guaruntee you will make power. "tuners" are imho very overrated! but honda-tech isnt a good place to express that opinion
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94goldjungsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
tuning hondata is one of hte most overrated things in the world. make a rich basemap, take out fuel. keep timing conservative. guaruntee you will make power. "tuners" are imho very overrated! but honda-tech isnt a good place to express that opinion
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Yea you could use a rich base map hondata and then use an afc to fine tune it.
liam
tuning hondata is one of hte most overrated things in the world. make a rich basemap, take out fuel. keep timing conservative. guaruntee you will make power. "tuners" are imho very overrated! but honda-tech isnt a good place to express that opinion
</TD></TR></TABLE>Yea you could use a rich base map hondata and then use an afc to fine tune it.
liam
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mattb16a1civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was wondering if this would work on a 91 hatch with a b16 and a zydene ecu??????????</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep it will.
liam
yep it will.
liam




