Last night I helped put my friend's Apex turbo kit on his d16z6, we didn't run into any problems and the install went as planned. For lack of money we decided to run check valves instead of a missing link. The Apex kit didn't have anything that we could use to secure it to the throttle body, so we used some auto glass silicone to hold it in. Anyway, when we started the car up it ran hella shitty, it kind of sounded like we were running an open header, only it was coming from inside the Intake Manifold. We are almost 100% sure that the silicone has blocked up the MAP sensor hole. We've even taken out the check valves and just plugged in the MAP sensor. Still doesn't run any better. We are boosting but since we don't want to mess anything up he's not driving the car. Does anyone have any ideas on what it could be?

 

bump

Modified by d16eh2 at 8:43 AM 8/22/2003


Modified by d16eh2 at 8:44 AM 8/22/2003

 

Come on guys!

 

BUMP

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d16eh2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ttt</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

 

vacuum leak! somewhere....somehow.

 

you think thats what it is? damn, ill check that when i get home. thanks. anyone else got any ideas? would the MAP sensor hole being plugged up be the cause of my problems? how do you clean it out?

 

first off get a coupling for the throttle body. and clean out all the silicone. that stuff will deystroy oxygen sensors, etc....

 

take a pic of how ur putting the check valves

 

I found this pic on an archived post but it looks exactly like how im doing it, only the plastic coupling was too small to secure itself in the MAP sensor hole. so we tried gluing it

 

man noone helped you.. thats not like h-t.. anyhow.. what is the vafc set at for number one. are your check valves on the right direction, and what are you using for fuel mangement. it sounds like you have too much fuel pressure to me. I ask about the check valves because on my buddies prelude we had to put the check valves in the right way to get it to idle.

 

im using a Vortec 12:1 FMU, ill double check the lines, maybe i got them on wrong or something. can someone give me a diagram on how to install it? o yea, and im not running a VAFC. i took the valves off so it cant be that, im just plugged the map sensor in.

 

bump it up

 

ditch those check valves...

i ran that for a day and it was nothing but trouble.... park the car a few more days and get a missing link thingy.... it will work better....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by si_mekanik &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">vacuum leak! somewhere....somehow.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

damn, thanks alot for the help guys!

 

You have a definite vacum leak, check all your gasket to make sure they are sealed i.e. t-body, intake manifold gasket. Even if your gasket is off just a little it can cause big problems. Just double check them.

 

so you have an fmu and a fuel pump for manegement correct?

 

i second the MISSINGLINK.. i spend 100 and car works great! also did u upgrade your injectors? if so what size, if they are upgraded GET AN AFC.. and i have also had a vac leak, BUT all it did was mess w/ my idel.. just it would drop rev's and rev back up.. nothing to major.. found the leek and boom all set..

 

i just recently went to dyno my car 1989 honda civic si with d16z6 motor i got there and threw code for map sensor pulled 150ish hp. Then had the dyno tuner install check valves three of them. After this run no check engine light but hp suffered greatly 120ish hp. I took the check valve off and got back to my 150ish hp. I dont think check valves work well. Why the car is still having problems with the check valve removed i have no idea.