everythingwentblack

I installed my injectors the day I got my chipped ECU from Phearable.net. I Gave them all my specs injectors and setup and all, so the day I got my ecu was the day I ripped out my VAFC, FMU and replaced my stock injectors with DSM's. In the video of the engine bay, you can't hear it all effed up as much as the exhaust shot. The motor is literally "Violently shaking" back and forth. I don't even know where to start with this one. I tried to eff with the idle screw on the TB, but to no avail. I replaced the plugs, 1 step colder and gapped at .28 like they should be, but to noo avail. I have an adjustable FPR coming in, but hasn't arrived yet (its like two weeks over due).

Something worth note- When installing my dsm's, two of the green plastic caps fell off. Would the spray effect my car driving like ****?

Thanks for the help, and some info on where to start would verddy niieeecee.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8kGxWoTR5bw

Bakeoff

I don't see any mention of a resistor box...

twkdCD595

Did you install a resistor box or inline resistors for those injectors?

DSM injectors are low impedance and the ecu's injector driver will not properly operate them and can potentially be damaged without.

1DayIllBFast

im pretty sure that is the problem. once i read the thread name that was the first thing that came to mind was he is not using a resistor box.

everythingwentblack

Yeah I have a resistor box, I wired it and nicely tucked it away in the little pocket by the clutch reservoir thats why you didn't see it

everythingwentblack

I know its wired correctly, I double and triple checked, and followed all the pinouts on every single website I looked at, thats why I'm at a loss. I know my IACV is a little dirty or completely effed since I had a slightly bad idle before (but that was only when it was warming up, once it was warm it was perfect) but other then that everything was in perfect working order prior to install. I need to fix all this garbage before I go get it dynoed

093turbo16

iTrader: (2)

Have you checked the plugs yet? That will tell you what is going on.

If all the plugs are fairly normal meaning burning about the same, then I would say the car just needs to get tuned.

coneheadsracing

CEL? Make sure the chip is in the computer the right way, and fully seated. How did you do the dsm's? When i installed mine, you had to use an ohm meter and check continuity.

HiProfile

Have you checked the INJECTORS? Some DSM injectors will be sold in ruined form by ******** trying to cover the costs of their now-ruined motor. The pintle caps don't have much of an effect, but if one is off, they all should be of IMO.

Another thing, w/o a narrowband to correct the AFR's, or a wideband to tell you what they are, you could be idling at 18:1, or 8:1. As little as 10% less fuel can make a car idle like crap. As good as phearable can be, they can't anticipate a motor's needs like GOD himself. A basemap is simply that - a base to start from, to get you from your house to your garage.

My suggestion is to get an adjustable FPR to see if that helps. If it does, do a light "pull" to check the AFR's via the spark plug reading method. If you had to lean it out to idle, and WOT is now lead, or vice versa, you'll have to live with a crapy idle or reinstall the VAFC to correct your idle.

everythingwentblack

I was actually going to break off the caps for continuity purposes. How would I check the injectors? I ordered a b&m adjustable FPR in september and still didnt get it yet. Postal service is killing me here, hasn't updated my tracking in a week. I also have a uego waiting to be installed, was going to do it last week but got caught up with midterms. The vafc isn't goin back in since I'm going to get my car dyno tuned once I figure all this garbage out. I'm going to check for CEL's tomorrow


I also did pull the plugs and noticed even wear for all four BTW and I have no idea what WOT stands for

everythingwentblack

I took the pinout from somewhere online, I believe it was off hondata. i checked continuity but only got continuity from one out of the remaining seven wires. Then my tester broke FML

slow96lude

WOT wide open throttle

slow96lude

what he is saying is, if you use your FPR and lean it out or richen it to get a better idle its going to be way off at WOT. I would get to a tuner asap. What program does phearable use btw?

everythingwentblack

I'm not lookin to get it perfect to where I can beat the **** out of it, or WOT at all. I just need it to run smooth as I fix all the stupid small stuff before i get it tuned that way a $500 tune doesnt turn into a $1400 tune

everythingwentblack

If i had that gdamn adj FPR by now I'd be better off. I just need to fix the small stuff like broken wheel studs and whatnot before I get it tuned

HiProfile

You'd check the injectors via an injector flow bench. Making your own flowbench is not for the faint of heart, I have experience there. They'd be able to tell you if one is locked open, or locked shut. Some times you can diagnose them by using an ohm meter on the coil (the 2 pins), they should all be 6-8 ohms IIRC, all within 1/2 an ohm of each other.

The DIY thing you can do is test them yourself, assuming you can't use the spark plug method. Ziptie the injectors to the fuel rail, pull the fuel rail/injectors out of the manifold, and secure cups or small bottles under them. FYI they fit perfectly into those tiny 6-8oz soda bottles with normal caps. Then crank the engine over for 20-40 seconds or so w/o killing the battery. If one of the cups has a lot more or lot less fuel in it than the others, that injector is junk.


You can imediately check to see if it's too lean by pulling the stock FPR's vac line off, and pluggin the manifold hole. That will increase the fuel by about 15%.

Bullettdsm

Actually running without the resistor box will work OK, for a little while. Adjustment can be slightly screwy, but it will work fine for a bit (I have done this on a couple of set-ups. One the box broke down after install - oddly these injecotrs were 450 DSM's - and the other was just my screw up of me forgetting to put the box back in after stealing mutliple parts off that car to fix another car, lol).

I bring this up for my next point, as the injector breaks down from not having the box installed, You can run into problems of coil resistance in the injectors being different than the ECU is expecting and the adjustment off accordingly.

Which brings me to the the whole point , if everything you have done seems correct, then you may have a set of injectors that are no good (sold by an unknowing or uncaring seller) due to the aforementioned problem. These injectors can be static tested fine and flow tested fine but still not be good. They would need to be dynamically tested to be sure.

You may want to get some known good injectors and try them if you can't solve this problem so simply. Unless you got some injectors handy I would check the FPR avenue first, though.

Not knowing the previous history of injectors is what makes me never want to buy used injectors. It not necessarilly about the mileage as it is about the use.

Just some thoughts from a long azz troubleshooting probelm that I encountered.

MB

everythingwentblack

I only had enough time before work to break off the other two pintle caps, as well as install a FP gauge. I idle at about 38psi, then I pulled the FPR line and plugged the manifold and Idled at about 43psi. This didnt fix the idle completely, but made a noticable difference in helping the problem. Tomorrow Im going to try and soda can flow test the injectors, (hopefully my adjustable FPR will arrive) and just found out one of my friends has a set of dsm bluetops so I may try and switch them out to see if this corrects the problem