Finally boosted.. well almost...
Ok, I got a little squirrley just now, and bought these off ebay:
The turbo: It's cheap, and worth rebuilding if it blows oil. I am slightly worried about that because you can not see the metal/white color on a clean burning turbo.. then again, it could have come off a motor that blew a piston or had a dirty system/etc. If blown I will rebuild it myself.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW
and second: the fittings: A necessary part, and a Function7 brand. I will buy the oil line, vaccum block, and downpipe flanges so I can do the install fab up a DP.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...sting
I'm very close... hopefully the smog guy doesn't make me take the IC out completely... [like an ***] but just incase, I have a set of clippers (for zipties) and a phillips to pull the bumper off and a flathead to take the clamps apart and piping out.
The turbo: It's cheap, and worth rebuilding if it blows oil. I am slightly worried about that because you can not see the metal/white color on a clean burning turbo.. then again, it could have come off a motor that blew a piston or had a dirty system/etc. If blown I will rebuild it myself.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW
and second: the fittings: A necessary part, and a Function7 brand. I will buy the oil line, vaccum block, and downpipe flanges so I can do the install fab up a DP.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...sting
I'm very close... hopefully the smog guy doesn't make me take the IC out completely... [like an ***] but just incase, I have a set of clippers (for zipties) and a phillips to pull the bumper off and a flathead to take the clamps apart and piping out.
ok, I lied, I ordered:
The turbo, oil inlet and drain fittings, a 1/8NPt to -3an adaptor, -3an Earls oil line, -10AN to barb earls drain fitting (drain line), 5 bolt DP flange, and have made a deal on a Apexi Turbo timer fron Craigslist.
I took the ricer to be smogged on my lunch break; now, when I pulled up, I totally forgot the W02 was hooked up, and I was still running off the ostrich. After pulling up I decided, expletive it, and I would smog anyways... that way I can still get another month pass to keep it on the road.
The guy saw the intercooler and asked if I had a turbo. I showed him and he didn't care about the IC and piping. I told him about the ostrich and how my low end was slightly rich, he didn't care. [mind you this is in cali at a test-only station] Once up on the ramps, I asked him if it passed the vistual inspection.. he said yes... I asked about the WB02, and he in turn asked me if there was a CEL; I said no. He asked if I wanted him to still smog it.
Well, after running it, it failed the low speed HC, 92 max, 168 measured. not bad.. considering I didn't trust that catalytic converter.
So..
After work I messed around with the low-end portion of my maps, and fixed a tip-in issue (for some reason, everytime you gave it a little gas it would drop to 12.5:1, so I installed fuel tools, fixed the tip-in enrichment, and presto... solid 14.7 all over the board.
Now I plan on going in tomorrow, to have him put it in test mode so I can make adjustments while it is on the smog dyno... youheard me right.. he is intrigued by the RTP capability, and even admitted he wasn't watching the smog machine when smogging it, he was staring at my AFR readout =P
HAHAHA! For all those who say that cali smog is hard to beat.. it all depends on how you approach the smog tech from the beginning
Ok, now that I have that part out of the away:
smog will be done tomorrow, and thats when I start hooking everything back up. I am just debating if I will flat black the IC core. I think I might... but I am not sure presently.
I would be installing the injectors right now, but the local store only had 3 out of the 4 injector oring kits I need... so I need to go elsewhere to get the last one.
I did however manage to get myself a set of brake pads for pretty cheap; thank god for 1/2 off at Kragens! So it looks like im gonna be doing a front brake job in a few hours!
The turbo, oil inlet and drain fittings, a 1/8NPt to -3an adaptor, -3an Earls oil line, -10AN to barb earls drain fitting (drain line), 5 bolt DP flange, and have made a deal on a Apexi Turbo timer fron Craigslist.
I took the ricer to be smogged on my lunch break; now, when I pulled up, I totally forgot the W02 was hooked up, and I was still running off the ostrich. After pulling up I decided, expletive it, and I would smog anyways... that way I can still get another month pass to keep it on the road.
The guy saw the intercooler and asked if I had a turbo. I showed him and he didn't care about the IC and piping. I told him about the ostrich and how my low end was slightly rich, he didn't care. [mind you this is in cali at a test-only station] Once up on the ramps, I asked him if it passed the vistual inspection.. he said yes... I asked about the WB02, and he in turn asked me if there was a CEL; I said no. He asked if I wanted him to still smog it.
Well, after running it, it failed the low speed HC, 92 max, 168 measured. not bad.. considering I didn't trust that catalytic converter.
So..
After work I messed around with the low-end portion of my maps, and fixed a tip-in issue (for some reason, everytime you gave it a little gas it would drop to 12.5:1, so I installed fuel tools, fixed the tip-in enrichment, and presto... solid 14.7 all over the board.
Now I plan on going in tomorrow, to have him put it in test mode so I can make adjustments while it is on the smog dyno... youheard me right.. he is intrigued by the RTP capability, and even admitted he wasn't watching the smog machine when smogging it, he was staring at my AFR readout =P
HAHAHA! For all those who say that cali smog is hard to beat.. it all depends on how you approach the smog tech from the beginning

Ok, now that I have that part out of the away:
smog will be done tomorrow, and thats when I start hooking everything back up. I am just debating if I will flat black the IC core. I think I might... but I am not sure presently.
I would be installing the injectors right now, but the local store only had 3 out of the 4 injector oring kits I need... so I need to go elsewhere to get the last one.
I did however manage to get myself a set of brake pads for pretty cheap; thank god for 1/2 off at Kragens! So it looks like im gonna be doing a front brake job in a few hours!
Ok, Passed smog today, no problem. The stock airbox came off once again. I have the bov plumbed up, and all the accessories gathered ready for the final install.
I need to find some tubing to use as the charge pipe going from the turbo to the drivers side. I put the wiper resivoir back, and the piping in the front was kinds in the way so I had to improvise... I need a better solutin then what I am using currently.
The turbo, line, and fittings I am missing should be here sometime this coming week... they are all getting shipped to my work.. as we are a major harley parts distributor
I am working on getting my homebuilt wideband into some type of enclosure. I am also trying to hash out a location for the display it has... I might have to do some custom mod to the dash to mount it, or make a clever enclosure for it. but as for the enclosure for the wideband controller, it is a junction box... waterproof, and has many grommet holes for wires in and out. I will be also routing all the usb functions of the car to the hub in there, and it will make alot cleaner and centralized location for that.
I found my old autometer AFR gauge, it will go in the pillar pod hooked up to one of the auxilary outputs. That makes one more wire I need to run to the pillar. When I do that gauge install, I will pull the whole pillar off and run the wires/tubes behind it, and cut holes for them to get to the pods... once the pod is finally atached, I will clean up the wires and re-install the pillar for a cleaner look, not to mention it will give me a chance to trim the oversized portions of the pillar pod.
My car blew a coolant hose today... serves me right for not just changing them when I did the swap.. but it was budget... I was almost home, and the system still had water in it, but was just leaking from the port under the dist. on the head. I kept it cool by turning off the ignition, and holding the pedal full throttle to cool off the head/cylinders, and it worked pretty well... it got me the 1/2-1 mile to my destination, all with barely getting to 3/4 on the temp scale, moving up and down while coasting. All is well, a new hose gets put in tomorrow... and I will replace them all. No more chance of this BS happening anymore. I must say one thing though, it runs hot for some reason.. I have no clue why. Since the motor was first run, it just liked getting to hot, then would cycle the fan 2 min after it turns off...
I wanna do a re-cal of my WB02 and do another tune on it... I think it is possible even on the P06 maps (chip off) it is running lean.
I plan to install a brand-new fuel pump, and main relay (freshly rebuilt by me). The fuel pump will give me a chance to check the seal back there... I think the seal for the fuel pump cover is bad... I smell a touch of gas every once in a while when turning hard.
Moe TBA
I need to find some tubing to use as the charge pipe going from the turbo to the drivers side. I put the wiper resivoir back, and the piping in the front was kinds in the way so I had to improvise... I need a better solutin then what I am using currently.
The turbo, line, and fittings I am missing should be here sometime this coming week... they are all getting shipped to my work.. as we are a major harley parts distributor

I am working on getting my homebuilt wideband into some type of enclosure. I am also trying to hash out a location for the display it has... I might have to do some custom mod to the dash to mount it, or make a clever enclosure for it. but as for the enclosure for the wideband controller, it is a junction box... waterproof, and has many grommet holes for wires in and out. I will be also routing all the usb functions of the car to the hub in there, and it will make alot cleaner and centralized location for that.
I found my old autometer AFR gauge, it will go in the pillar pod hooked up to one of the auxilary outputs. That makes one more wire I need to run to the pillar. When I do that gauge install, I will pull the whole pillar off and run the wires/tubes behind it, and cut holes for them to get to the pods... once the pod is finally atached, I will clean up the wires and re-install the pillar for a cleaner look, not to mention it will give me a chance to trim the oversized portions of the pillar pod.
My car blew a coolant hose today... serves me right for not just changing them when I did the swap.. but it was budget... I was almost home, and the system still had water in it, but was just leaking from the port under the dist. on the head. I kept it cool by turning off the ignition, and holding the pedal full throttle to cool off the head/cylinders, and it worked pretty well... it got me the 1/2-1 mile to my destination, all with barely getting to 3/4 on the temp scale, moving up and down while coasting. All is well, a new hose gets put in tomorrow... and I will replace them all. No more chance of this BS happening anymore. I must say one thing though, it runs hot for some reason.. I have no clue why. Since the motor was first run, it just liked getting to hot, then would cycle the fan 2 min after it turns off...
I wanna do a re-cal of my WB02 and do another tune on it... I think it is possible even on the P06 maps (chip off) it is running lean.
I plan to install a brand-new fuel pump, and main relay (freshly rebuilt by me). The fuel pump will give me a chance to check the seal back there... I think the seal for the fuel pump cover is bad... I smell a touch of gas every once in a while when turning hard.
Moe TBA
Honestly, On this block, I need to see where I am I think my ignition maps need changed, due to the D15B8 block, PM3 head, and MLS headgasket... Something doesn't seem right.
Honestly, on this block, I don't expect to see more than 160-180... after tuning; slightly above .5bar... depends on how efficent that turbo is at a given RPM. I think I am going to see full spool at 3-4K... which will keep it a good gas DD and more power.. but I really am going to end up building my D15B.
I will be using the D15B I currently have sitting in my 4D.
Setup plans:
D15B: Tanked and baked, notched
Eagle H-beams
Vitara pistons (stock bore if block allows)
Posted block, blockguard if I feel like paying for something (installed by me)
Oil pump mods (performed by yours truly)
ARP hardware all the way around
mild headwork
possibly a stgII boost cam with springs/retainers
I think a Super60 would do nicely.
bolt-ons from there. Lookin for 250+
This current motor is going to be treated well, and kept as a smogging motor. I will also use it in the mean time for installing different turbos to see how they look from a tuning ign/fuel aspect.
Honestly, on this block, I don't expect to see more than 160-180... after tuning; slightly above .5bar... depends on how efficent that turbo is at a given RPM. I think I am going to see full spool at 3-4K... which will keep it a good gas DD and more power.. but I really am going to end up building my D15B.
I will be using the D15B I currently have sitting in my 4D.
Setup plans:
D15B: Tanked and baked, notched
Eagle H-beams
Vitara pistons (stock bore if block allows)
Posted block, blockguard if I feel like paying for something (installed by me)
Oil pump mods (performed by yours truly)
ARP hardware all the way around
mild headwork
possibly a stgII boost cam with springs/retainers
I think a Super60 would do nicely.
bolt-ons from there. Lookin for 250+
This current motor is going to be treated well, and kept as a smogging motor. I will also use it in the mean time for installing different turbos to see how they look from a tuning ign/fuel aspect.
Ok, Passed smog today, no problem. The stock airbox came off once again. I have the bov plumbed up, and all the accessories gathered ready for the final install.
I need to find some tubing to use as the charge pipe going from the turbo to the drivers side. I put the wiper resivoir back, and the piping in the front was kinds in the way so I had to improvise... I need a better solutin then what I am using currently.
The turbo, line, and fittings I am missing should be here sometime this coming week... they are all getting shipped to my work.. as we are a major harley parts distributor
I am working on getting my homebuilt wideband into some type of enclosure. I am also trying to hash out a location for the display it has... I might have to do some custom mod to the dash to mount it, or make a clever enclosure for it. but as for the enclosure for the wideband controller, it is a junction box... waterproof, and has many grommet holes for wires in and out. I will be also routing all the usb functions of the car to the hub in there, and it will make alot cleaner and centralized location for that.
I found my old autometer AFR gauge, it will go in the pillar pod hooked up to one of the auxilary outputs. That makes one more wire I need to run to the pillar. When I do that gauge install, I will pull the whole pillar off and run the wires/tubes behind it, and cut holes for them to get to the pods... once the pod is finally atached, I will clean up the wires and re-install the pillar for a cleaner look, not to mention it will give me a chance to trim the oversized portions of the pillar pod.
My car blew a coolant hose today... serves me right for not just changing them when I did the swap.. but it was budget... I was almost home, and the system still had water in it, but was just leaking from the port under the dist. on the head. I kept it cool by turning off the ignition, and holding the pedal full throttle to cool off the head/cylinders, and it worked pretty well... it got me the 1/2-1 mile to my destination, all with barely getting to 3/4 on the temp scale, moving up and down while coasting. All is well, a new hose gets put in tomorrow... and I will replace them all. No more chance of this BS happening anymore. I must say one thing though, it runs hot for some reason.. I have no clue why. Since the motor was first run, it just liked getting to hot, then would cycle the fan 2 min after it turns off...
I wanna do a re-cal of my WB02 and do another tune on it... I think it is possible even on the P06 maps (chip off) it is running lean.
I plan to install a brand-new fuel pump, and main relay (freshly rebuilt by me). The fuel pump will give me a chance to check the seal back there... I think the seal for the fuel pump cover is bad... I smell a touch of gas every once in a while when turning hard.
Moe TBA
I need to find some tubing to use as the charge pipe going from the turbo to the drivers side. I put the wiper resivoir back, and the piping in the front was kinds in the way so I had to improvise... I need a better solutin then what I am using currently.
The turbo, line, and fittings I am missing should be here sometime this coming week... they are all getting shipped to my work.. as we are a major harley parts distributor

I am working on getting my homebuilt wideband into some type of enclosure. I am also trying to hash out a location for the display it has... I might have to do some custom mod to the dash to mount it, or make a clever enclosure for it. but as for the enclosure for the wideband controller, it is a junction box... waterproof, and has many grommet holes for wires in and out. I will be also routing all the usb functions of the car to the hub in there, and it will make alot cleaner and centralized location for that.
I found my old autometer AFR gauge, it will go in the pillar pod hooked up to one of the auxilary outputs. That makes one more wire I need to run to the pillar. When I do that gauge install, I will pull the whole pillar off and run the wires/tubes behind it, and cut holes for them to get to the pods... once the pod is finally atached, I will clean up the wires and re-install the pillar for a cleaner look, not to mention it will give me a chance to trim the oversized portions of the pillar pod.
My car blew a coolant hose today... serves me right for not just changing them when I did the swap.. but it was budget... I was almost home, and the system still had water in it, but was just leaking from the port under the dist. on the head. I kept it cool by turning off the ignition, and holding the pedal full throttle to cool off the head/cylinders, and it worked pretty well... it got me the 1/2-1 mile to my destination, all with barely getting to 3/4 on the temp scale, moving up and down while coasting. All is well, a new hose gets put in tomorrow... and I will replace them all. No more chance of this BS happening anymore. I must say one thing though, it runs hot for some reason.. I have no clue why. Since the motor was first run, it just liked getting to hot, then would cycle the fan 2 min after it turns off...
I wanna do a re-cal of my WB02 and do another tune on it... I think it is possible even on the P06 maps (chip off) it is running lean.
I plan to install a brand-new fuel pump, and main relay (freshly rebuilt by me). The fuel pump will give me a chance to check the seal back there... I think the seal for the fuel pump cover is bad... I smell a touch of gas every once in a while when turning hard.
Moe TBA
Thanks! I think im gonna need it right now...
So... on my way home from fremont, my alternator belt started to squeak, so I drove nicer, untill the charge light came on... so the belt shreaded. great... 20 miles into the hills, and no charge to keep my headlights going... well, doin 80 with my lowbeams on in the back hills, to get my *** home wasn't the best thing... cause of deer, and the fact my lobeams pointed about 10-15ft in front of me (never adjusted them yet)
Anyways, I took my lunch break today to put a new belt in... on my way to work, it was squeaking, and it shreaded that belt too... WTF?!?
The pulleys are good, no buildup or anything of the sort on them, and they are both straight and the tension was right.
I found an oil leak.... it is somewhere behind the timing belt covers... I am thinking it is the cam seal because that head was on the top shelf at a machine shop for some time before I bought it... I wouldn't think that would cause it to go bad though...
anyways, I have another belt, and a new seal ready to pickup when I get out of work.
I sisn;'t get any more parts in the mail today, I expect them later in the week.
The 4D is pretty much sold... from the point I posted a 92 with a clean title on craigslist with pics of all the body damage, I got emails left and right, and even a guy that wants to pay 1,100 for the shell... AWESOME. So if he calls me tonight, I will pull the motor/trans, etc and get it ready for him to pick-up.
This will bring pleanty of cash for getting the D15B's internals, and getting the block re-worked.
And...
It would be nice to have the tranny back out of that car, so I can finally get to installing the ZC 3/4th gears into it =D
ok... more TBA... gotta get back to work!
So... on my way home from fremont, my alternator belt started to squeak, so I drove nicer, untill the charge light came on... so the belt shreaded. great... 20 miles into the hills, and no charge to keep my headlights going... well, doin 80 with my lowbeams on in the back hills, to get my *** home wasn't the best thing... cause of deer, and the fact my lobeams pointed about 10-15ft in front of me (never adjusted them yet)
Anyways, I took my lunch break today to put a new belt in... on my way to work, it was squeaking, and it shreaded that belt too... WTF?!?
The pulleys are good, no buildup or anything of the sort on them, and they are both straight and the tension was right.
I found an oil leak.... it is somewhere behind the timing belt covers... I am thinking it is the cam seal because that head was on the top shelf at a machine shop for some time before I bought it... I wouldn't think that would cause it to go bad though...
anyways, I have another belt, and a new seal ready to pickup when I get out of work.
I sisn;'t get any more parts in the mail today, I expect them later in the week.
The 4D is pretty much sold... from the point I posted a 92 with a clean title on craigslist with pics of all the body damage, I got emails left and right, and even a guy that wants to pay 1,100 for the shell... AWESOME. So if he calls me tonight, I will pull the motor/trans, etc and get it ready for him to pick-up.
This will bring pleanty of cash for getting the D15B's internals, and getting the block re-worked.
And...
It would be nice to have the tranny back out of that car, so I can finally get to installing the ZC 3/4th gears into it =D
ok... more TBA... gotta get back to work!
Sucks about the alternator belt.I like this build.
I have a question for you.Are you runing a jaw wideband? How do you like it.I didn't read this entire thread but I swear I saw on pgmfi you were.Im considering buying it but I haven't seen enough reviews and user info on it.
I have a question for you.Are you runing a jaw wideband? How do you like it.I didn't read this entire thread but I swear I saw on pgmfi you were.Im considering buying it but I haven't seen enough reviews and user info on it.
its kinda crappy how ppl hated on this build in the beginning... if he would have posted the pics he has now he woulda started off with more respect im sure, but i kinda like to see how he started off and got better along the way....
but im in for more pics lol and a vid if ya can!
but im in for more pics lol and a vid if ya can!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by trav95civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its kinda crappy how ppl hated on this build in the beginning... if he would have posted the pics he has now he woulda started off with more respect im sure, but i kinda like to see how he started off and got better along the way....
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I liked it! its awesome i cried laughning on some of the pics but i didn't read everything that was going on thanks for that, but its turning out great!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I liked it! its awesome i cried laughning on some of the pics but i didn't read everything that was going on thanks for that, but its turning out great!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by trav95civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its kinda crappy how ppl hated on this build in the beginning... if he would have posted the pics he has now he woulda started off with more respect im sure, but i kinda like to see how he started off and got better along the way....
but im in for more pics lol and a vid if ya can!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's hater-tech for you
Good job man, keep it up!!!
but im in for more pics lol and a vid if ya can!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's hater-tech for you
Good job man, keep it up!!!
Thanks all!
Yeah, I purposefully omitted the build pics etc to get all the flamers, ao me and my mech buddy (he's a VW guy) could laugh insanely =P He didn't imagine the scale of it... but we got some laughs.
Anyways,
The belt:
Stupid me. I should have payed more attention to the 3 grooved pulley on the alternator from a pre92 car... came with the D15B8.
My fizz is that we banched on this thing breaking it in (already broken in bottom, so no issues with break-in aside from initial warmup(s) and test drive), I have put over 2,000 miles on it, and it never had a problem....
But, I have found the cause, I need to get rid of the black breather filter box from the B8 if im gonna run my dual PCV setup... that box must be gummed up bad or something..
not enough flow for the system, and it was pressurizing the block under high r's (6k+) and I was pushing a little oil past the oil slinger in front of the crank.... either that or past the oil pump... the oil got out to the pulley, and got on the belt... you know the rest.
Anyways, I took the new alt from the 4D and put it in... no problems now.
What a %$@#$ mess though... god damn... I need to find something that can eat belt mixed with oil... ill get pics as soon as I find a digital camera.
Videos: yeah... they come soon.. I think I have a link to a vid I posted on MS... lemme look for it... this was my EG 4D, before the Z6 IM swap.. and if you turn it up, you can hear the echo on the hills... EVERYONE... said it was loud as ****. I almost got banned from a VW meet because my car was "loud"... lol. Till the guy realized who I was, and his threats woulda put him in a bad place... (long story involving family member(s) that work for the local PD etc....
http://vids.myspace.com/index....43830
This one is me laying it down in my buddies Ford Ranger:
http://vids.myspace.com/index....32611
laughable for sure. I love the interview... "Well; He's a good driver. -I won't take your word for it..."
try that link.
Yeah, I purposefully omitted the build pics etc to get all the flamers, ao me and my mech buddy (he's a VW guy) could laugh insanely =P He didn't imagine the scale of it... but we got some laughs.
Anyways,
The belt:
Stupid me. I should have payed more attention to the 3 grooved pulley on the alternator from a pre92 car... came with the D15B8.
My fizz is that we banched on this thing breaking it in (already broken in bottom, so no issues with break-in aside from initial warmup(s) and test drive), I have put over 2,000 miles on it, and it never had a problem....
But, I have found the cause, I need to get rid of the black breather filter box from the B8 if im gonna run my dual PCV setup... that box must be gummed up bad or something..
not enough flow for the system, and it was pressurizing the block under high r's (6k+) and I was pushing a little oil past the oil slinger in front of the crank.... either that or past the oil pump... the oil got out to the pulley, and got on the belt... you know the rest.
Anyways, I took the new alt from the 4D and put it in... no problems now.
What a %$@#$ mess though... god damn... I need to find something that can eat belt mixed with oil... ill get pics as soon as I find a digital camera.
Videos: yeah... they come soon.. I think I have a link to a vid I posted on MS... lemme look for it... this was my EG 4D, before the Z6 IM swap.. and if you turn it up, you can hear the echo on the hills... EVERYONE... said it was loud as ****. I almost got banned from a VW meet because my car was "loud"... lol. Till the guy realized who I was, and his threats woulda put him in a bad place... (long story involving family member(s) that work for the local PD etc....
http://vids.myspace.com/index....43830
This one is me laying it down in my buddies Ford Ranger:
http://vids.myspace.com/index....32611
laughable for sure. I love the interview... "Well; He's a good driver. -I won't take your word for it..."
try that link.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ej8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's hater-tech for you
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats why reading owns h-t lol. Im ready to see this thing up and running and out on the track
That's hater-tech for you
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats why reading owns h-t lol. Im ready to see this thing up and running and out on the track
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ej8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Everyone nice should build a LS-T setup because we are pretty cool over at our thread Kyle, lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats because VTEC people are angry people lol
Thats because VTEC people are angry people lol
I wouldn't call myself angry...
lol
anyways, did the vid links work?
Also:
38" Earls -3AN line came in.. nice peice... I got the extra 2" to have room to play with so I can strap/tie it down properly, and consider different routing options.
The -10 barb is the sister to the one that came on the oil pan so no issues there.
Now just need the turbo, inlet/outlet flanges, and downpipe flange to come in and I can bolt it up make a DP and drive away!
lol
anyways, did the vid links work?
Also:
38" Earls -3AN line came in.. nice peice... I got the extra 2" to have room to play with so I can strap/tie it down properly, and consider different routing options.
The -10 barb is the sister to the one that came on the oil pan so no issues there.
Now just need the turbo, inlet/outlet flanges, and downpipe flange to come in and I can bolt it up make a DP and drive away!
Thanks! I think im gonna need it right now...
So... on my way home from fremont, my alternator belt started to squeak, so I drove nicer, untill the charge light came on... so the belt shreaded. great... 20 miles into the hills, and no charge to keep my headlights going... well, doin 80 with my lowbeams on in the back hills, to get my *** home wasn't the best thing... cause of deer, and the fact my lobeams pointed about 10-15ft in front of me (never adjusted them yet)
Anyways, I took my lunch break today to put a new belt in... on my way to work, it was squeaking, and it shreaded that belt too... WTF?!?
The pulleys are good, no buildup or anything of the sort on them, and they are both straight and the tension was right.
I found an oil leak.... it is somewhere behind the timing belt covers... I am thinking it is the cam seal because that head was on the top shelf at a machine shop for some time before I bought it... I wouldn't think that would cause it to go bad though...
anyways, I have another belt, and a new seal ready to pickup when I get out of work.
I sisn;'t get any more parts in the mail today, I expect them later in the week.
The 4D is pretty much sold... from the point I posted a 92 with a clean title on craigslist with pics of all the body damage, I got emails left and right, and even a guy that wants to pay 1,100 for the shell... AWESOME. So if he calls me tonight, I will pull the motor/trans, etc and get it ready for him to pick-up.
This will bring pleanty of cash for getting the D15B's internals, and getting the block re-worked.
And...
It would be nice to have the tranny back out of that car, so I can finally get to installing the ZC 3/4th gears into it =D
ok... more TBA... gotta get back to work!
So... on my way home from fremont, my alternator belt started to squeak, so I drove nicer, untill the charge light came on... so the belt shreaded. great... 20 miles into the hills, and no charge to keep my headlights going... well, doin 80 with my lowbeams on in the back hills, to get my *** home wasn't the best thing... cause of deer, and the fact my lobeams pointed about 10-15ft in front of me (never adjusted them yet)
Anyways, I took my lunch break today to put a new belt in... on my way to work, it was squeaking, and it shreaded that belt too... WTF?!?
The pulleys are good, no buildup or anything of the sort on them, and they are both straight and the tension was right.
I found an oil leak.... it is somewhere behind the timing belt covers... I am thinking it is the cam seal because that head was on the top shelf at a machine shop for some time before I bought it... I wouldn't think that would cause it to go bad though...
anyways, I have another belt, and a new seal ready to pickup when I get out of work.
I sisn;'t get any more parts in the mail today, I expect them later in the week.
The 4D is pretty much sold... from the point I posted a 92 with a clean title on craigslist with pics of all the body damage, I got emails left and right, and even a guy that wants to pay 1,100 for the shell... AWESOME. So if he calls me tonight, I will pull the motor/trans, etc and get it ready for him to pick-up.
This will bring pleanty of cash for getting the D15B's internals, and getting the block re-worked.
And...
It would be nice to have the tranny back out of that car, so I can finally get to installing the ZC 3/4th gears into it =D
ok... more TBA... gotta get back to work!
Well, I think I just need to budget my DP and I will put it all in...
That is when the turbo, turbo inlet/outlet Function7 flanges, and exhaust 5 bolt flange come in... maybe a week, or 2?
That is when the turbo, turbo inlet/outlet Function7 flanges, and exhaust 5 bolt flange come in... maybe a week, or 2?
5 bolt flange is in... BOOYAH... now for the oil flanges and turbo and I am good to go to the exhaust shop. If it doesn't come this weekend, I will bolt it all up with my old turbo's exhaust housing so I can at-least fab up my DP from scrap lying around... untill I can get material to make a nice DP.
Turbo came....
Exhaust housing is cracked at the wastegate port (visible from the inlet flange)... that sux... but hopefully it is salvagable. The turbine has 1mm side to side play, and no in and out. Good there. The turbo has been rebuilt before... it has a longer turbine shaft than the OEM one.
The exhaust has some nasty-*** buildup on it.. .like it was burning oil, like in the pics.
The good news is that on the inlet side of the hot housing, it was just as nasty, so that narrows it down a little: The motor either burned hella oil, the compressor side has a blown seal, or the motor it came off of blew.
I think the motor it came off of blew because of the buildup being even throughout the whole hot side and the way it looks... more often than not, the wastegate line breaks off, and the turbo overboosts the motor, it pops, and u get a goods turbo off it.
no function7 flanges yet.... grrr!!!! I am going to hold out that they are going to come in a later dropoff time (we have many because we are a parts distributor).
Exhaust housing is cracked at the wastegate port (visible from the inlet flange)... that sux... but hopefully it is salvagable. The turbine has 1mm side to side play, and no in and out. Good there. The turbo has been rebuilt before... it has a longer turbine shaft than the OEM one.
The exhaust has some nasty-*** buildup on it.. .like it was burning oil, like in the pics.
The good news is that on the inlet side of the hot housing, it was just as nasty, so that narrows it down a little: The motor either burned hella oil, the compressor side has a blown seal, or the motor it came off of blew.
I think the motor it came off of blew because of the buildup being even throughout the whole hot side and the way it looks... more often than not, the wastegate line breaks off, and the turbo overboosts the motor, it pops, and u get a goods turbo off it.
no function7 flanges yet.... grrr!!!! I am going to hold out that they are going to come in a later dropoff time (we have many because we are a parts distributor).



