Hey sup keep the build going.

 

WOW im shocked.

 

keep it up man lol

 

it's 1/2 off day at pick 'n' pull... I am at work untill 2:45, then I get word back from a scout looking for a replacement turbo $35 for a good turbo? I can't pass that up.

All it will take is 30 min to pull and bam... time to get a DP flange etc....

 

what the hell is that !!! LOL you guys must be joking, that thing will not make it to 150hp, LOL

 

someone said something about the VW 1.8 20V motor being weak

how about 715 BHP on stock pistons

lets see a honda do this

jared use 2 k03's make 400whp and show them whats up

 

Jacking my own thread??? lol, I see a chart that looks like it was drawn in excel... but I can understand it... but think about how much money it cost to get that motor up to that HP level... But I could build a smaller displacement motor, that would have a better Hp to Tq ratio as to need less HP, to be just as "quick".... it all depends on powerband, spool time/rpm, and "usable" powerband size and location... VW's can get juice... but they act like a 700HP+ supra.... no actual utilization of the power's potential untill 4th... sometimes 3rd gear. =P

But... These things can be debated up and down.... Nice to see those #'s out of a VW... though it probably cost more than it was worth... odd that internals int he motor are still holding up at those power levels... it must be a good tune and right near the breaking point for the rods/pistons.


Anyways, today was 1/2 off day at pick 'n pull.... after hearing my scout never went to pick n' pull, I got off work and picked him up for the trip. He realized once we got there he forgot the tools. %$#%!!!

We found a stubby phillips, channel locks, a 10mm & 13mm box wrenches. That's it. So it looks like the turbo hunt would be put on hold. I scouted and found a 95EX with perfect doors, and lots of parts I need... including a rear disc setup. Fark, I hope it is there tomorrow.

Anyways, When browsing I found a talon turbo... the turbo's center housing was sitting in the dirt with the housings removed, and the turbines showing. I looked and the hood latch was stuck... after prying and seeing anyways, the BOV was missing and the injector clips were poped... but I could not see them... so I reached and the fuel rail was still bolted in! Score.

I tried the 13mm, too big.. expletive.... 12mm. I ran around, and on the way to get the vise grips from Troy, I found a guy to lend me a 12mm box wrench. 5 min later, he met me at the car for his wrench, and I had 4 DSM450's in AWESOME shape... didn't check the mileage... but there was minimal oil buildup on the turbo piping/area... and the injectors were clen too... inside and out.

Look what I got for $26:







Booyah! Now time to make a resistor box.

*edit: Added details to post.


Modified by JaredKaragen at 1:16 AM 7/8/2007

 

oah yeah, and to add to the thread: here's the motor out of that jetta... waiting to be sold... tis what it is good for! ... lol j/k

 

Updates: I need to go to pick 'n pull again and pick up a resistor box for the injectors... I don't feel like soldering in some huge resistors to do the job.

I just now need to find a connector to be able to plug and unplug the resistor box from the drivers side where the "dummy plug" is. I might just wire the resistor box into the harness where the dummy plug plugs in.

I have the injector oring kit, but it is for the OEM injectors, so it doesn't have the thick lower oring/collar it only came with the thinner one, so I need to get another injector kit to fit them to the intke mani.

As soon as I get my check on Friday, I am taking a trip to the DMV... I have been lazy or sleeping every chance I have had to go to the DMV, so I need to get in gear and get the ricer registered so I can sell the 4D and finish the build.

For a short time, this car will be my daily driver... and It will be ugly as hell. Whatever to that... I don't give a rats ***.

as far as the piping, etc. that I have installed already, I have it out of the way and the stock airbox installed already for smogging so things are ready to go... I just hope the catalytic converter in it (pretty small one might I add) isn't tired.... if it turns out bad I will go ahead and do the full exhaust setup on it using the CAT from the Jetta... it is high-flow 2 1/4" unit that is made for a turbo'd car so it should work nicely!


Anyways, more updates to come!

 

hey jared love the idea u have for your turbo needs... keep up the work and im sure this thing will run fine with the right tuning...im anxious to see it done..


and ps expletive all you haters ..bitches

 

Updates: I need to go to pick 'n pull again and pick up a resistor box for the injectors... I don't feel like soldering in some huge resistors to do the job.

I just now need to find a connector to be able to plug and unplug the resistor box from the drivers side where the "dummy plug" is. I might just wire the resistor box into the harness where the dummy plug plugs in.

I have the injector oring kit, but it is for the OEM injectors, so it doesn't have the thick lower oring/collar it only came with the thinner one, so I need to get another injector kit to fit them to the intke mani.

As soon as I get my check on Friday, I am taking a trip to the DMV... I have been lazy or sleeping every chance I have had to go to the DMV, so I need to get in gear and get the ricer registered so I can sell the 4D and finish the build.

For a short time, this car will be my daily driver... and It will be ugly as hell. Whatever to that... I don't give a rats ***.

as far as the piping, etc. that I have installed already, I have it out of the way and the stock airbox installed already for smogging so things are ready to go... I just hope the catalytic converter in it (pretty small one might I add) isn't tired.... if it turns out bad I will go ahead and do the full exhaust setup on it using the CAT from the Jetta... it is high-flow 2 1/4" unit that is made for a turbo'd car so it should work nicely!


Anyways, more updates to come!

 

So, Here's the pics of the intercooler and how I cut/mounted it... it worked pretty well.







As far as the car, here is it's current state:

Yes that is underglow... and yes, there are 2 tubes in there.


Dirty, but it's gettin better.


Bling... for only $100.


It's gonna be painted black when I re-install the turbo setup.

Here's the kicker for this post: My buddy works at Kragens... which means I get a huge discount and buy lots of parts for a good discount on a commercial account. I got a phonecall that he was putting a bunch of APC products on an "all-sales-final" super clearance on all the old APC products they didn't sell.

Now it looks like the APC fairy puked all over the dash:




Turbo as soon as it is on the road registered (if it passes smog Friday when I go to register it. Hopefully it passes and I don't need to cut out the cat and weld in the one from the jetta. More TBA!

 

Ok, I forgot these 2 so you can see what I mean about 2 tubes under the hood:

 

Ugh

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93CX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ugh </TD></TR></TABLE>

Haha, it's a joke for right now, it isn't going to stay there for long... just for a laugh and pics.

I have it registered and insured now. Just got back from running those errands, and the windshield is going on around 5-6PM (PST) so once it is in and cured enough, I will be driving it.

I just am waiting for the windshield to drive it to avoid pullovers.

I have a month pass untill I can get to getting it smogged. I will probably do that Monday or Tuesday. Things are going good for this project, but I need to solve the tip-in issue I am having... when the motor is cold, it acts like the valves are out of adjustment, but the valves are tight and make no noise above a new sounding motor. Aside from that, it runs awesome and strong.

Wish me luck at the smog ststion... I know he's gonna trip about the intercooler and piping still being there... but I will clearly point out that it is not hooked up whatsoever. The only dillema I am having is if I should tune it to smog, or run a stock P06 on it.

 

Well, the glass guy picked up the wrong windshield... he got one from a 90 Civic. So, he will be installing it tomorrow when I am at work. That way... no pull-overs. If I get pulled over by CHP for the intercooler, I am going to walk him to the hood, and show him it is disconnected... and drive away. Works every time. Also, If I get pulled over tonight for the windshield, I have an invoice to show a cop so he lets me go.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JaredKaragen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You got that right, out of a volvo... I used one of the oil flange bolts to atach it to the oil drain flange whn I got the turbo from pick 'n pull.

Anyways, I am waiting to get myself a new T3 because I won't have the time to fab up a manifold for the K03 Sport....

With the piping: Right now, it is going from the TB to the intercooler on the passenger side, through the core, and it goes out of the core to a filter that is mounted there untill I get the turbo back on.

Those tires.... they don't hold air for longer than 48 hrs. They are just on there untill I get a new set of rims for it, or I feel like getting another new set for the 16's, but I always manage to get a slow leak out of one or two of the rims so that is why I am reluctant right now.

Also:

I still need to smog/reg and swap the D15B into the ricer... then things will really start to progress.

Hey... if anyone in the San Jo' area have an extra T3 lying around... hit me up!



Need a light?

Modified by JaredKaragen at 4:56 AM 7/1/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>


You should both really invest in some safety glasses.Keep up the hard work looks like a good old fashioned low buck build

 

Update: The car drives awesome. I can't wait to get the energy suspension bushings in to get a better feel... I do want to transfer over my power steering pump cause not having it sux.

Hopefully I will get a new turbo soon... I am now taking it easy on this project to concentrate on a few I have lined up: Buy a 4dr civic (80's model) for $80, sell it for $600, spend $200 on a 89 Eagle Talon TSI AWD (turbo) finish putting in all the new parts it already has [long story short, a guy is going to prison, and was finishing his rebuild so he is selling the car], then sell that car for a few K.

So, more budget build $$$ will be on the way... I think I will get the body fixed up with that cash... aside from completing the boosting project.

 

Windshield is in... I got a new upper trim strip too, and He fixed the side trim strips, so it's on to fixing the dents.

I took the time today after work to clean up some of the interior, I attempted to install an old deck I have, the wiring job in this thing is shot. I am gonna have to get a new dash harness for the stereo.

I swapped taillights with the 4Dr, so now the wiring and plugs on them is correct. I need to clip the plugs and wiring from a pick 'n pull car to solder into the front turn signals/marker lights because they were re-wired with new plugs and they are th wrong ones. The signals blink all turbo status... the right one not lighting at all when blinking, and the left one blinking fast and lightly. The emergency lights light up the rear ones and the drivers front light, but not the right, but it blinks at the correct rate. This is a major problem for me... I need this car to be as legit as possible to avoid bullshit.

Smog comes later this week probably. Tires are in the near future, maybe rims at the same time... who knows.

I am still lookin out for a turbo... I would have a brand new T3/T4... but I spent a little more this weekend than I wanted to.

I replaced the radiator and cooling fan with the one off the 4d, and the one off the ricer is getting warrantied out for when I do the motor swap.

I still have alot to straighten out... My friend started to sand the bondo a little... it is a solid base, but needs to be taken down to layer properly. I might end up having a shop straighten it out.

Now... it looks like a 1/2 way decent car. The red on the dash/etc. is gonna stay... I think I will just go off that... red and blue everywhere... but the car is going to start as a flat black primer, and work from there. Might go as far as a flat black paintjob, and clear that... 3-7 layers of clear though... I don't care about the weight, it is for the candy shell look. It will have a turbo so it will be able to compinsate.

Minimal clutch slippage right now. It's actually doing good... starting to feel like a clutch that is barely starting to go out. So I think another tank or 2 of gas and it should be pretty firm... it is hella smooth right now.

I need to track down a rattle... well, I know what it is, but I don't wanna fix it because: it is the tube coming off the drivers side of the FMIC with the air filter on it. It is too long so it holds the bumper out of alignment. Once the turbo is back in with the new charge piping, it will be trimmed to fit properly... untill then, the bumper is cocked slightly as was seen in the last row of pics.

No pics today, I will probably take some tomorrow.

 

No new pics today; sorry... but it's all cleaned up with the deck installed with a new amp (car came with a blown one) anyways, here's the first set of pics I took when I got the car off the trailer and put the interior peices back where they belonged:


































Look at the head that came off the $50 D15B8!!!

 

Updates:

Wideband is installed in the ricer now. Even though the external display does not work ATM, I am waiting for a replacement unit that should solve that issue.

I trimmed up the rest of the bumper, it fits like a glove. I also took the time to get rid of some rattles and whatnot. Things are starting to progress again.

I picked up a resistor box from an early 80's civic... one of the longer tin covered ones, not the ribbed one off an 86+. I got it with the plug, so all I need to do is splice it into the injector harness near the bulkhead [firewall] plug and that way I can unplug the resistor box, and re-insert the dummy plug into the stock harness to run stock injectors in the future. The only thing I need to do is wire up the harness near the connector so that the accessories that get power from that plug also get voltage if the plug is removed.

I am waiting on the correct injector o-ring kits to come in for the injectors... and I need to do the solder/splice work to get the resistor box able to be plugged in. I was able to use a stock mounting point and bolt and it looks like the resistor box belongs there

The radiator support was repaired the rest of the way, near the bottom of the subframe where it meets the unibody rails, it is folded over the lip and re-atached instead of sticking out foreward and vibrating all the time. I will eventually go in and weld it on for more durability, but it isn't actualy necessary.

The front left blinker has finally started to blink at the correct speed... it just happened one day... the right one has yet to blink. It works, but won't blink. It's really pissing me off, and I am getting ready to pull the fender and run new wires from the fusebox to the blinker.

I have decided 100% to not install the K03 sport. It's just too damned small, and won't get me to the numbers I am seeking for... plus I want a later spooling turbo, not a quickie. Being in Cali, it is easier to get by without spooling sounds when driving slow; but this isn't the only reason, just one of many that I have come to the realization of in the past few weeks. I could make an adaptor plate... but it is waaaaaaaaaaay too restrictive, and I would have to keep the internal WG on the turbo (non-removable) so it is a major flow restriction.

My friend has already begun sanding down the horrible bondo patch on the side... getting it ready for a second layer. This will be nice, because it means my car is getting that much closer to being straight and getting a new paint job. Primer first... and I think it's gonna start happening sooner then later. I want to get the numpers/fender off, as well as the doors to get them sanded good and primered.

Next I need to look into some good plastic filler if I want to fix soome of the small gouges in the front bumper... but I eventually am going to replace the bumpers and skirts with a body kit... nothing too ricer, just something different. (craigslist).

more TBA when I get a sec... more to say... oah so more to say!

 

Continuing....

So, after pulling the WB02 out of the 4D and putting it in the ricer I had an abnormal amount of black soot built up on the o2. I knew the 4D's D15B was buning oil, and it wasn't burning it as fast as the last, but it is more than enough to make me want to rebuild the motor before I swap it. I was only thinking that the valveguide seals in the motor were gone because it was a crate motor, then attempted to be installed by someone else, who gave up on the OBDI swap in his rex, and sold it to me. Obviously, when I got the motor, I took everything apart (except taking the head off) and it was sooty on the inside (oil stained) and all accessories like the IACV, FITV, IM, valvecover, etc. were RTV's on, and in places where excess RTV would block passages, it did. Good thing I did this check or I woulda had alot of odd problems to deal with... on top of the cam issues I was having before (some jackass did a Y8 cam swap on it... $%%$@#$ ********!)

I am torn between just R&R'ing the head and a new HG then piping it in the ricer, or tearing it down to a bare block and starting from scratch... the most recent instances of oil pressure losses in it make me want to take it completely apart.

For the last 300 miles or so on the other car, my oil pressure was hanging pretty low. So I changed the oil and installed a K&N oil filter on it... the oil pressure went back up from 5-10 at idle to 40 at idle right after the change, but after doing a 5 mile run through the hills to warm everything up I was back to 10psi of idle pressure.. when I was never seeing under 15 on thew hottest day when I am at 5,000 of the 6,000 miles on the oil change. Cold start-up I used to get 80-100+PSI, now it shows 65PSI cold.... So I am wondering what gives on that note. The max I see is 70PSI on it now... it worries me. Meanwhile my D15B8 is still pushing 100+ cold and 25-45 hot; this is good.


So... where should I go with this one? If I tear the block down I will be getting some vitaras and some rods... I might as well right?

Anyways, the project is soaring pretty good now.

For asthetics, I need to find a good place to mount my AFR display. I was considering getting a JDM center console to add a SVGA touchscreen for a small car PC to control the ostrich, do datalogging, etc. This will make adjustments painless and seamless.

Next: to find a motor and tranny for the 4D so I can get it sold and get the rice to the nice status. That being finish the body and get at-least a coat of primer on it, get a turbo, make a DP (with external WG dump routed to it), and finish the rear swaybar install [I am missing the 2 bishing that the endlinks hook to in the swaybar, and the endlinks].

 

I cant wate to see some videos.

 

Update: I installed the resistor box after work (where I posted from yesterday).

I thought it through, and came to a conclusion:

The resistor box is wired into the engine-side of the harness. Hooked up the the injector likes like it should, and the one wire to the +12 source, wrapped up all nice and neat, and the resistor box is bolted to the body in the corner by the bulkhead/clutch resivoir. I did leave the stock OBD0 connector on the resistor box ao I could seperate it from the engine side harness easily.

Now: The "Dummy plug" plugged into the harness on the D/S near the bulkhead [firewall] needs to be removed, and changed out for another that has the pins for power to the injectors cut-out. That way, when I take out the plug that gives the +12 to all injectors, I can put in the other plug and it will still power the accessories, and not the injectors.

Conclusion:

All I need to do to change types of injectors, is take out the dummy plug, and swap it for the other and the injectors will get their power through the resistor box. If I put the stock dummy plug back in, the resistor box is automatically bypassed (+12V to all pins) thus it does nothing to the system, and the stock injectors work like a charm.

Easier than cutting up the harness and splicing wires together eh?

 

I stole the Dummy plug off of my 92 4D, and spliced all the wires together on the engine-side harness. Then, cut out the required pins, and presto! The plug works (verified with a multimeter) so all I need to do is get off my *** to put the 450's in and get the vac maps tuned.