Finally boosted.. well almost...
not much to update on today... I slept alot.
Aside from that I went and consulted a 05 Civic with a D17. He wants to do a swap to a typeR... so that gives me a future project.
Aside from that I put a lic plate frame on the ricer and also took the sunroof off to lube the rails for it... it was acting sticky. Works great now.
I dug around for myFuel pump; didn't have enough sunlight to dig through the 4D for it... it seems it is either stolen or lost now... I need to search more... so taking the back seat out is going to have to wait.
I got another look at the Tenzo-R's my buddie is gonna sell me. They are in ok shape... pleanty of dings, etc. one has a dent, and one has a bit of the rim edge taken out.. I am trying to see how much I would pay for em. He's going to give me a good deal though, because I have done hella free work on his car for him.
More TBA.
If I can get the digital camera back tomorrow, I will take pics of the work..
Aside from that I went and consulted a 05 Civic with a D17. He wants to do a swap to a typeR... so that gives me a future project.
Aside from that I put a lic plate frame on the ricer and also took the sunroof off to lube the rails for it... it was acting sticky. Works great now.
I dug around for myFuel pump; didn't have enough sunlight to dig through the 4D for it... it seems it is either stolen or lost now... I need to search more... so taking the back seat out is going to have to wait.
I got another look at the Tenzo-R's my buddie is gonna sell me. They are in ok shape... pleanty of dings, etc. one has a dent, and one has a bit of the rim edge taken out.. I am trying to see how much I would pay for em. He's going to give me a good deal though, because I have done hella free work on his car for him.
More TBA.
If I can get the digital camera back tomorrow, I will take pics of the work..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Lobster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
this is just crazy...running 7.7 lbs with no IC also probably losing a good bit of power since your probably suckign in all that hot air from the lack of downpipe...turbo will be shot soon since you are getting compressor surge from lack of BOV.
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I agreed with you up until the point where you started talking about getting compressor surge from 7 pounds of boost.
Let the guy do what he wants with his car people, its obviously just a ghetto setup for fun.
this is just crazy...running 7.7 lbs with no IC also probably losing a good bit of power since your probably suckign in all that hot air from the lack of downpipe...turbo will be shot soon since you are getting compressor surge from lack of BOV.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agreed with you up until the point where you started talking about getting compressor surge from 7 pounds of boost.
Let the guy do what he wants with his car people, its obviously just a ghetto setup for fun.
The surge was when you let off the throttle... but not all the way, let off to coasting... not a good feeling....
It felt like a power surge... that was working against the motor... went away the second I put the BOV on..
also if you were moving or snaped the gas, it would surge as well, but I think that was from the compressor wheel contacting the housings (viewable in the first set of huge pics).
Anyways,
Did some adjusting so the trunk can be clicked not slammed shut.
Misc other preperations were made to get ready for the rebuild fo the other motor...
I gathered all the components needed for the build, put them on the shelf. The flanges are on the turbo, as well as the fittings and oil line.
The tapped -10AN oil pan with gasket is sitting with all the rest of the fittings/hardware/injectors, etc.
I spent some good time looking for my digital cameras and video camera... nowhere to be found. I need to check my parents storage once more... tear through every box.... There are aterior motives for this: As I am going to Oceano (Pismo beach) in a few weeks.
In one or 2 weeks, we will be pulling the D15B and tranny out of the 4D, not too much to say about that other than getting the head and oil pan off to inspect and see how far it needs work. I am pretty sure it needs rings from the amount of oil it liked to burn (1Qt every 1,200 miles). Depends on how long it takes to get the down payment on the 4D. I have also found a few peple that want to do the DP on the setup, so I will work that out too.
I dug out my old ZC gearset. Took the FD off the diff, and cleaned up the gears, etc. I think I might dis-assemble the 4D's tranny, take the main/counter/FD out and replace the FD, mainshaft, 4th and 3rd gears out, see which shift forks between the 2 trannys are the most within spec, then put a good ZC's 3rd/4Th with ZC-FD in. I would be very happy to have the ZC gears back... that FD made all the difference in the world too.
Ok.. more TBA
It felt like a power surge... that was working against the motor... went away the second I put the BOV on..
also if you were moving or snaped the gas, it would surge as well, but I think that was from the compressor wheel contacting the housings (viewable in the first set of huge pics).
Anyways,
Did some adjusting so the trunk can be clicked not slammed shut.
Misc other preperations were made to get ready for the rebuild fo the other motor...
I gathered all the components needed for the build, put them on the shelf. The flanges are on the turbo, as well as the fittings and oil line.
The tapped -10AN oil pan with gasket is sitting with all the rest of the fittings/hardware/injectors, etc.
I spent some good time looking for my digital cameras and video camera... nowhere to be found. I need to check my parents storage once more... tear through every box.... There are aterior motives for this: As I am going to Oceano (Pismo beach) in a few weeks.
In one or 2 weeks, we will be pulling the D15B and tranny out of the 4D, not too much to say about that other than getting the head and oil pan off to inspect and see how far it needs work. I am pretty sure it needs rings from the amount of oil it liked to burn (1Qt every 1,200 miles). Depends on how long it takes to get the down payment on the 4D. I have also found a few peple that want to do the DP on the setup, so I will work that out too.
I dug out my old ZC gearset. Took the FD off the diff, and cleaned up the gears, etc. I think I might dis-assemble the 4D's tranny, take the main/counter/FD out and replace the FD, mainshaft, 4th and 3rd gears out, see which shift forks between the 2 trannys are the most within spec, then put a good ZC's 3rd/4Th with ZC-FD in. I would be very happy to have the ZC gears back... that FD made all the difference in the world too.
Ok.. more TBA
Been workin alt;
Good news: all new brakes in the front, rotors, and a clean-up. The oil leak in my spark plug tube went away; it was from the previous "pressurizing of the block" because of a clogged breather box on the block.
Good news: all new brakes in the front, rotors, and a clean-up. The oil leak in my spark plug tube went away; it was from the previous "pressurizing of the block" because of a clogged breather box on the block.
Ok, more to say:
The person buying the 4D off of me, seems to be backing out; She has to move and does not know where yet.... so it looks like I am still stuck with the 4D.
MAybe I will sell the shell to pick n pull or something.... I dunno... I just wanna get rid of the car so I can continue on with my project.
I really just need to get the 2 motor swaps done so I can put it all behind me but that aint the case right now.
As for the rest; I am going to probably be pulling the 4D's motor and trans this weekend, tomorrow specifically, but maybe next week.
That will give me the time to tear down and assess the motor. The low oil pressure perviously kinda scared me... but whatever; it doesn't cost that much for a new oil pump. The pump I kept from the block that came out of the ricer was scored under the pump gears, so that one is garbage. Once I get the new one I need to port and upgrade it before the install.... not to mention try to find some upgraded rods and order up some vitaras... that is if I can afford it then.
Well; I want to get it over with... and it will hopefully be soon. I have too much **** I am always doingl this is the first day in about 4 months I have had a day to just sit and sleep in; not caring about the rest.
It feels kinds good!
The person buying the 4D off of me, seems to be backing out; She has to move and does not know where yet.... so it looks like I am still stuck with the 4D.
MAybe I will sell the shell to pick n pull or something.... I dunno... I just wanna get rid of the car so I can continue on with my project.
I really just need to get the 2 motor swaps done so I can put it all behind me but that aint the case right now.
As for the rest; I am going to probably be pulling the 4D's motor and trans this weekend, tomorrow specifically, but maybe next week.
That will give me the time to tear down and assess the motor. The low oil pressure perviously kinda scared me... but whatever; it doesn't cost that much for a new oil pump. The pump I kept from the block that came out of the ricer was scored under the pump gears, so that one is garbage. Once I get the new one I need to port and upgrade it before the install.... not to mention try to find some upgraded rods and order up some vitaras... that is if I can afford it then.
Well; I want to get it over with... and it will hopefully be soon. I have too much **** I am always doingl this is the first day in about 4 months I have had a day to just sit and sleep in; not caring about the rest.
It feels kinds good!
Ok, I know it has nothing to do with this thread aside from the fact that I got it for $250, and Spent $10.00 on cleaners to get it 100% up to running and riding condition.

1982 YZ490
2-stroke 487CC (5x5 chassis)
remote resivoir damping adjustable rear mono-shock
It's big, it's not too heavy, but heavy, and it has a shitload of power. Exactly what I am used to as I learned to ride in the sand on a YZ426F... discontinued because too many people were killing themselves... too much power.
Anyways, I hope to have the motor and trans out of the 4D by the time we go to pismo so I can jump head-into that project when I get back.
More TBA

1982 YZ490
2-stroke 487CC (5x5 chassis)
remote resivoir damping adjustable rear mono-shock
It's big, it's not too heavy, but heavy, and it has a shitload of power. Exactly what I am used to as I learned to ride in the sand on a YZ426F... discontinued because too many people were killing themselves... too much power.
Anyways, I hope to have the motor and trans out of the 4D by the time we go to pismo so I can jump head-into that project when I get back.
More TBA
Scored again:
IHI Deisel turbo.
Markings are kinda unclear, something like .38 on exhaust housing (looks like smaller than a .48 on the exhaust housing), and the compressor wheel and housing have .52 cast into them.
It's pretty decent sized turbo, would be good for anyone really. I am considering using it, but the exhaust housing makes it want to be a top-mount if you use the output housing. (4 bolt as seen in pics)







ZERO shaftplay whatsoever... you try hard to move it it stays... I pretty sure this is a ball bearing turbo... anyone got any insight? I currently don't have access to a boroscope anymore. But.. I am putting it on craigslist for some easy cash
IHI Deisel turbo.
Markings are kinda unclear, something like .38 on exhaust housing (looks like smaller than a .48 on the exhaust housing), and the compressor wheel and housing have .52 cast into them.
It's pretty decent sized turbo, would be good for anyone really. I am considering using it, but the exhaust housing makes it want to be a top-mount if you use the output housing. (4 bolt as seen in pics)







ZERO shaftplay whatsoever... you try hard to move it it stays... I pretty sure this is a ball bearing turbo... anyone got any insight? I currently don't have access to a boroscope anymore. But.. I am putting it on craigslist for some easy cash
ok, got some more info:
It's an RHB62?
All the whacks out there never have any solid info on what actual series/specs this turbo is, but I do know one thing,
all of the GM1-5 turbos are exactly the same aside from wastegate routing/location (if any) and housing external shapes/mounts...
same AR, same internals.
People have been reporting these turbos good to 300-400Hp...
If I can find an exhaust housing worthy enough, I will use it instead of the .42/.48... I am told by a few different retailers that it is comperable to the T04E in regards to capability, etc.
any opinions on this?
F.Y.I. Project rice is still in motion; I am waiting on being able to use a rack and equipment to fab my DP... that's the only thing holding me up;
I picked up a few more dummy plugs for the resistor box mod... and a new Main relay. . gotta love pick 'n' pull's 1/2 off days.
Aside from all that, I am scheduling a day with the local CHP for them to inspect my car inside and out; without a ticket that is. It will be good to know what I will be yelled at for, and what I won't be yelled at for.
As for the whole lock-and-key law: There is nothing defining what gives them the right to search your vehicle; I think the laws need to be looked at again; this is rediculous;
here is a direct quote:
Your inquiry has been forwarded to my office in San Jose for review. I have a basic understanding of your concern - you feel you are being unjustly stopped by law enforcement based on the appearance of your vehicle. Without specifics for each stop, however, it is difficult for me to fully answer. Street racing and illegally modified vehicles are major issues in California as evident by the numerous laws enacted by the State Legislature and the high media attention resulting from recent fatal collisions in other parts of the state. CHP officers are charged with enforcing those laws, and as such, CHP officers are given training to identify illegally modified vehicles and take appropriate action.
Some CHP officers have received additional training in street racing and modified vehicle conditions and are even more verse than the average officer on observed violations. Unfortunately, many people purchase after market equipment and install it on their vehicles to personalize the vehicle rather than to knowingly violate statutes. Other car enthusiasts know they're breaking the law but want to increase horsepower.
A traffic stop is a detention based on reasonable suspicion.
Inspecting your vehicle would then be the development of probable cause to arrest (or cite) you. If probable cause is not developed for further action, then the detention must cease and you must be allowed to leave.
Reasonable suspicion can be made for a vehicle with louder than stock exhaust, visible modifications, etc. Alone, these observations may not be enough but coupled with the training and experience of officers, a detention may be justified. The actions of the driver could then lead to a longer detention such as a failure to abide by CVC2804 and allow CHP officers to inspect.
here is the law mentioned above:
A member of the California Highway Patrol upon reasonable belief that any vehicle is being operated in violation of any provisions of this code or is in such unsafe condition as to endanger any person, may require the driver of the vehicle to stop and submit to an inspection of the vehicle, and its equipment, license plates, and registration card.
****THE BOTTOM LINE****
If your car looks rice, it is a just enough cause for you to be considered a street racer and have your vehicle searched.
smells like *** to me.
It's an RHB62?
All the whacks out there never have any solid info on what actual series/specs this turbo is, but I do know one thing,
all of the GM1-5 turbos are exactly the same aside from wastegate routing/location (if any) and housing external shapes/mounts...
same AR, same internals.
People have been reporting these turbos good to 300-400Hp...
If I can find an exhaust housing worthy enough, I will use it instead of the .42/.48... I am told by a few different retailers that it is comperable to the T04E in regards to capability, etc.
any opinions on this?
F.Y.I. Project rice is still in motion; I am waiting on being able to use a rack and equipment to fab my DP... that's the only thing holding me up;
I picked up a few more dummy plugs for the resistor box mod... and a new Main relay. . gotta love pick 'n' pull's 1/2 off days.
Aside from all that, I am scheduling a day with the local CHP for them to inspect my car inside and out; without a ticket that is. It will be good to know what I will be yelled at for, and what I won't be yelled at for.
As for the whole lock-and-key law: There is nothing defining what gives them the right to search your vehicle; I think the laws need to be looked at again; this is rediculous;
here is a direct quote:
Your inquiry has been forwarded to my office in San Jose for review. I have a basic understanding of your concern - you feel you are being unjustly stopped by law enforcement based on the appearance of your vehicle. Without specifics for each stop, however, it is difficult for me to fully answer. Street racing and illegally modified vehicles are major issues in California as evident by the numerous laws enacted by the State Legislature and the high media attention resulting from recent fatal collisions in other parts of the state. CHP officers are charged with enforcing those laws, and as such, CHP officers are given training to identify illegally modified vehicles and take appropriate action.
Some CHP officers have received additional training in street racing and modified vehicle conditions and are even more verse than the average officer on observed violations. Unfortunately, many people purchase after market equipment and install it on their vehicles to personalize the vehicle rather than to knowingly violate statutes. Other car enthusiasts know they're breaking the law but want to increase horsepower.
A traffic stop is a detention based on reasonable suspicion.
Inspecting your vehicle would then be the development of probable cause to arrest (or cite) you. If probable cause is not developed for further action, then the detention must cease and you must be allowed to leave.
Reasonable suspicion can be made for a vehicle with louder than stock exhaust, visible modifications, etc. Alone, these observations may not be enough but coupled with the training and experience of officers, a detention may be justified. The actions of the driver could then lead to a longer detention such as a failure to abide by CVC2804 and allow CHP officers to inspect.
here is the law mentioned above:
A member of the California Highway Patrol upon reasonable belief that any vehicle is being operated in violation of any provisions of this code or is in such unsafe condition as to endanger any person, may require the driver of the vehicle to stop and submit to an inspection of the vehicle, and its equipment, license plates, and registration card.
****THE BOTTOM LINE****
If your car looks rice, it is a just enough cause for you to be considered a street racer and have your vehicle searched.
smells like *** to me.
haha... right on.. yeah... to get some extra cash I was considering selling what I have as a kit to start again... but what is the fun in that right?
Anything is for sale.... if you offer the right price
As for it all; We are frantically trying to work out the last kinks before we leave for Pismo beach tomorrow morning. We need to load the trailer and test-run each bike/quad once more. So far everything is going good, and ready to rock and roll.
I am off work in 10 min to go start loading the trailer. Hopefully I will have some pics if I can find my crappy camera's memory card; I don't care if it gets sand in it
As for project rice; the only real main things keeping me from installing it:
I need to install the tapped oil pan: I don't want to do it on the D15B8 if I am goign to be swapping in the D15B soon... but sale of the 4D haulted as she backed out (mom bought her a car). So, I am thinking about putting together a bunch of stripped and useless motor parts to build a motor to drop in and sell the unit to pick 'n' pull. I get to keep my old drivetrain, throw away junk, and make $650 off the car. Not the way I imagined getting rid of or selling my car; cause with a good motor and trans it is worth 1K or more... minimum.
ok, time to run and have some fun...
be back online Monday if not right before I leave tomorrow.
Anything is for sale.... if you offer the right price

As for it all; We are frantically trying to work out the last kinks before we leave for Pismo beach tomorrow morning. We need to load the trailer and test-run each bike/quad once more. So far everything is going good, and ready to rock and roll.
I am off work in 10 min to go start loading the trailer. Hopefully I will have some pics if I can find my crappy camera's memory card; I don't care if it gets sand in it

As for project rice; the only real main things keeping me from installing it:
I need to install the tapped oil pan: I don't want to do it on the D15B8 if I am goign to be swapping in the D15B soon... but sale of the 4D haulted as she backed out (mom bought her a car). So, I am thinking about putting together a bunch of stripped and useless motor parts to build a motor to drop in and sell the unit to pick 'n' pull. I get to keep my old drivetrain, throw away junk, and make $650 off the car. Not the way I imagined getting rid of or selling my car; cause with a good motor and trans it is worth 1K or more... minimum.
ok, time to run and have some fun...
be back online Monday if not right before I leave tomorrow.
Ok, made it back safe from pismo with only a busted up shoulder, a fucked left wrist, and 2 bad knees...
not too shabby.
Didn't get to ride the 490 because it wouldn't run right... still hasn't.... maybe I will just spend the cash on a carb rebuild kit finally.... I might possibly have to buy all new internals for the carb but I am hoping not to.
As for the project: I need to get off my *** and pull the D15B from the 4D do I can pull the head off and see if I want to rebuild the bottom end or not (suspected fried rings).
Anyways:
back to sleep... need it be4 work tomorrow.
not too shabby.
Didn't get to ride the 490 because it wouldn't run right... still hasn't.... maybe I will just spend the cash on a carb rebuild kit finally.... I might possibly have to buy all new internals for the carb but I am hoping not to.
As for the project: I need to get off my *** and pull the D15B from the 4D do I can pull the head off and see if I want to rebuild the bottom end or not (suspected fried rings).
Anyways:
back to sleep... need it be4 work tomorrow.
I got the diesel turbo mounted to the manifold... I think I am going to go with it, I just need to make a brace from the DP to the block where the OEM brace mounts to for added protection. I am buying DP off of another user on this site; $100, has 2 bungs, and is suitable to use the .42/.48 untill I can get the oil lines for the GM3, DP flange fabricated (nobody makes em, and I don't want a top mount)
This weekend we are pulling the D15B out of the 4D to take the head off and assess the bottom end. I will build that one up and drop it in with the turbo setup. upgrading as the funds come out. I sold a PDA phone literally 1 hr after I posted it on craigslist today, so thats where the DP funding comes from. All I would need to do is weld on the flange to hook up the exhaust. the DP looked pretty bling too. I might send it out for coating, or wrap it myself.
More TBA.
This weekend we are pulling the D15B out of the 4D to take the head off and assess the bottom end. I will build that one up and drop it in with the turbo setup. upgrading as the funds come out. I sold a PDA phone literally 1 hr after I posted it on craigslist today, so thats where the DP funding comes from. All I would need to do is weld on the flange to hook up the exhaust. the DP looked pretty bling too. I might send it out for coating, or wrap it myself.
More TBA.
Paid for the DP... it should fit ok, if not simple modification/fab work will be needed to make it work, but it looks like it should ift right in.

Looks like a nice piece. I bet the flamers are gonna start giving more thumbsup's lol!
The plans to pull the motor are concreted in for this weekend, and it shouldn't take more than 2 or 3 hours to pull. At that point I will clean it up and assess the top and bottom end. It liked to blow smoke while accelerating, and it didn't soot up my bumper as much as the previous motor that spun the rod bearing; but somehow I suspect rings. If the cylinder walls show any irregularities, I will be taking the bottom end apart and ball honing it myself; or if the budget permits, I will tear everything out and have it baked, tanked, surfaced, honed, etc.
More TBA.

Looks like a nice piece. I bet the flamers are gonna start giving more thumbsup's lol!
The plans to pull the motor are concreted in for this weekend, and it shouldn't take more than 2 or 3 hours to pull. At that point I will clean it up and assess the top and bottom end. It liked to blow smoke while accelerating, and it didn't soot up my bumper as much as the previous motor that spun the rod bearing; but somehow I suspect rings. If the cylinder walls show any irregularities, I will be taking the bottom end apart and ball honing it myself; or if the budget permits, I will tear everything out and have it baked, tanked, surfaced, honed, etc.
More TBA.
Last edited by JaredKaragen; Apr 26, 2010 at 12:59 PM.
As with the frequent updates: Plans are to show up to the shop at 3PM Sat afternoon, and pull the car up from the barn pad, and start yanking the motor/trans. I will be taking th head off, assessing the block; and installing selas and possibly bearings in the trans, but I think it should still be good. The axles in the 4D are new, lifetime warranty too.
I have all new hoses already, as well as the retrofitted and ready with seals DSM 450's. I will clean everything, and start building up and test fitting everything to the D15B on an engine stand before installation.
I know the DP will need some modification, but I am not sure untill I have it mounted up on an engine stand with a jig to line up the outlet. It will only take a slight trimming, bend and touch-up weld to re-angle it.
I have made up my mind to buy pistons and rods; I sent FJT a PM and made arrangements for purchase; when I get my next paycheck
I am going to use the 75.5mm rods in the build so it leaves me some room to bore out if needed, but I know the bottom end is good and can be honed. I just need to see it first; but if I am doing the forged build I will have to do the machine work anyways on the block; I have a D15B block chilling in the shop right now; spun a rod bearing before... didn't damage anything but oiling system, and bearings. I think I will get the pistons, and have the block machined for my pistons (I will have him fit the bores to my pistons) and I will do the build-up. This extra block lets me have something else to get prepared for the build before the other block is torn down..... If I feel like it. I need to find the $$$ for rods; looks like I will just uy a set of Eagles off ebay. Cheap enough, and easy.
I think I will go to my machinist to fab up a DP flange for the IHI turbo.. but I am kinda thinking of what to do about oiling it... it has a huge inlet. If the T3 .42/.48 smokes, I will pull it and swap out (D15B will be right close to stock compression so running without the turbo will be fine. I plan to daily drive the max this .42/.48 can put out, tuning it up slowly, and then swapping turbos when I feel like more or I feel squirrley.
Side note: I have a project for this winter; I will be putting a turbo on my friend's 03 GSXR (canadian model)... thing is quick as **** already but _we_ want more out of it... I borrow it now and then... it makes me want to find an old FJ1200
I have all new hoses already, as well as the retrofitted and ready with seals DSM 450's. I will clean everything, and start building up and test fitting everything to the D15B on an engine stand before installation.
I know the DP will need some modification, but I am not sure untill I have it mounted up on an engine stand with a jig to line up the outlet. It will only take a slight trimming, bend and touch-up weld to re-angle it.
I have made up my mind to buy pistons and rods; I sent FJT a PM and made arrangements for purchase; when I get my next paycheck
I am going to use the 75.5mm rods in the build so it leaves me some room to bore out if needed, but I know the bottom end is good and can be honed. I just need to see it first; but if I am doing the forged build I will have to do the machine work anyways on the block; I have a D15B block chilling in the shop right now; spun a rod bearing before... didn't damage anything but oiling system, and bearings. I think I will get the pistons, and have the block machined for my pistons (I will have him fit the bores to my pistons) and I will do the build-up. This extra block lets me have something else to get prepared for the build before the other block is torn down..... If I feel like it. I need to find the $$$ for rods; looks like I will just uy a set of Eagles off ebay. Cheap enough, and easy.I think I will go to my machinist to fab up a DP flange for the IHI turbo.. but I am kinda thinking of what to do about oiling it... it has a huge inlet. If the T3 .42/.48 smokes, I will pull it and swap out (D15B will be right close to stock compression so running without the turbo will be fine. I plan to daily drive the max this .42/.48 can put out, tuning it up slowly, and then swapping turbos when I feel like more or I feel squirrley.
Side note: I have a project for this winter; I will be putting a turbo on my friend's 03 GSXR (canadian model)... thing is quick as **** already but _we_ want more out of it... I borrow it now and then... it makes me want to find an old FJ1200
I couldn't find the camera, so sorry; no pics yet.
Ok good update:
It took about 2 1/2 hours to pull the motor and trans from the 4D, I took the head off and there was buildup on the cylinders and valves from the leaky valve guide seals. The rings still look good because I can still see a hint of cross-hatch on the cylinder walls. The head had a bit of carbon buildup like the pistons, and all of the exhaust valves looked like they were semi-hot (slight white buildup) and a brownish rustyish in color.
The IM had a little bit of buildup on 2&3 from the PCV system, nothing abnormal.
The noise in the clutch area on this one was from the collar around the TOB... it came loose and was floating around in there; not a bad TOB though; good thing.
The clutch showed miniml wear; But I think I might keep it around and use it if a different clutch won't hold up to the setup.
All in all, everything went smoothly, and I am just getting to the point of having to figure out what to do with each of my components. I think I will have the head tanked, and valves re-ground. I already have the seals; saves me some cash.
I need to furnish the cash somhow for the rods; not sure how I am going to get that done yet. All the bearings will come from Honda; all plastigauge'd for correct fit. I am going to port the oil pump in it;
As for machining the block; I have my old D15B block, so once I get my pistons, I will take the extra block over to the machine shop to get matched to the pistons. This will also give me a little room to come up with the cash for rods; maybe someone has a used set they want to sell for a good price?
Anyways; I could use the bottom end I have now and build the one I have on the side; just transferring the head when I put the built block in; Depends on the budget and how long things take me. I don't want this to become a slow build; It sucks sitting on all the toys but not be able to use
Ok good update:
It took about 2 1/2 hours to pull the motor and trans from the 4D, I took the head off and there was buildup on the cylinders and valves from the leaky valve guide seals. The rings still look good because I can still see a hint of cross-hatch on the cylinder walls. The head had a bit of carbon buildup like the pistons, and all of the exhaust valves looked like they were semi-hot (slight white buildup) and a brownish rustyish in color.
The IM had a little bit of buildup on 2&3 from the PCV system, nothing abnormal.
The noise in the clutch area on this one was from the collar around the TOB... it came loose and was floating around in there; not a bad TOB though; good thing.
The clutch showed miniml wear; But I think I might keep it around and use it if a different clutch won't hold up to the setup.
All in all, everything went smoothly, and I am just getting to the point of having to figure out what to do with each of my components. I think I will have the head tanked, and valves re-ground. I already have the seals; saves me some cash.
I need to furnish the cash somhow for the rods; not sure how I am going to get that done yet. All the bearings will come from Honda; all plastigauge'd for correct fit. I am going to port the oil pump in it;
As for machining the block; I have my old D15B block, so once I get my pistons, I will take the extra block over to the machine shop to get matched to the pistons. This will also give me a little room to come up with the cash for rods; maybe someone has a used set they want to sell for a good price?
Anyways; I could use the bottom end I have now and build the one I have on the side; just transferring the head when I put the built block in; Depends on the budget and how long things take me. I don't want this to become a slow build; It sucks sitting on all the toys but not be able to use
update: stayed home sick today; so no DP yet because it is being delivered to work.
aside from that; I decided to build the D15B block I have chillin, and get the headwork done to my current head and put it on the old block; when I get the spare block built, pull my current with the ebuilt hed, swap the head and whatever else, and drop it in to have a built motor in.
I know it will be in stages, but that is how my budget for this thing is going. It's hard to pay for everything at once (you have no idea how many MX/ATV projects I have going on right now).
Anyways; Time to get my *** out of bed, and get something done today: take some meds; and try and feel better before work tomorrow.
aside from that; I decided to build the D15B block I have chillin, and get the headwork done to my current head and put it on the old block; when I get the spare block built, pull my current with the ebuilt hed, swap the head and whatever else, and drop it in to have a built motor in.
I know it will be in stages, but that is how my budget for this thing is going. It's hard to pay for everything at once (you have no idea how many MX/ATV projects I have going on right now).
Anyways; Time to get my *** out of bed, and get something done today: take some meds; and try and feel better before work tomorrow.
lolz, I already have oil lines and fittings for the .42/.48.
As for the DP I just got: The flange on it is angled incorrectly. I will either cut off the flange and re-weld to my flange, or I will cut the pipe at a specific spot and reweld with it pointing in the correct direction.
Everything is there now... I just need to finish rebuilding the D15B to drop in with everything else.
Monday or Tuesday I will be dropping the head by the machine shop to get a quote on exhaust-side portwork and a rebuild on it (I already have all the seals so it will be somewhat cheaper).
As for the DP I just got: The flange on it is angled incorrectly. I will either cut off the flange and re-weld to my flange, or I will cut the pipe at a specific spot and reweld with it pointing in the correct direction.
Everything is there now... I just need to finish rebuilding the D15B to drop in with everything else.
Monday or Tuesday I will be dropping the head by the machine shop to get a quote on exhaust-side portwork and a rebuild on it (I already have all the seals so it will be somewhat cheaper).
Ok,
Got some work done today. I cut the DP, cut about a 15 degree wedge off of it, then welded it back together.... I only had a lincoln electric wire feed welder, so it don't look purrdy, but it will do. I will be wrapping the DP anyways. I also touched up the welds after the photos, but I think I am going to have a slight issue with my drain line... I need to buy a 45 degree bend for it, and it might work better then.... in the extreme, it will have a little pool up spot in the line, but nothing that would cause backup or a problem. I will have to get steel braded line for the drain because of it being soo close to the DP. You might be able to see in the photos.
Good news is the 2 o2 sensors fit (I hava a narrowband in the tightest location, it fits.
Here's the 3 pics I took with a cameraphone... we lost the work digital camera, time to buy a new one!



That was the mock-up stage... now we need to get the cat cut off the jetta DP, and some flanges to finish the operation. I will run a dump tube on the WG untill I get the radius bender to make the tube that connects to the WG connect to the DP.
Comments?
Got some work done today. I cut the DP, cut about a 15 degree wedge off of it, then welded it back together.... I only had a lincoln electric wire feed welder, so it don't look purrdy, but it will do. I will be wrapping the DP anyways. I also touched up the welds after the photos, but I think I am going to have a slight issue with my drain line... I need to buy a 45 degree bend for it, and it might work better then.... in the extreme, it will have a little pool up spot in the line, but nothing that would cause backup or a problem. I will have to get steel braded line for the drain because of it being soo close to the DP. You might be able to see in the photos.
Good news is the 2 o2 sensors fit (I hava a narrowband in the tightest location, it fits.
Here's the 3 pics I took with a cameraphone... we lost the work digital camera, time to buy a new one!



That was the mock-up stage... now we need to get the cat cut off the jetta DP, and some flanges to finish the operation. I will run a dump tube on the WG untill I get the radius bender to make the tube that connects to the WG connect to the DP.
Comments?
Last edited by JaredKaragen; Apr 26, 2010 at 01:00 PM.
Ok, I was kinda lazy, but removed the section of piping from the BOV to the intake, and installed my short ram. I also removed the filter from the wheel well, and covered it with a rag and a clamp to keep it from getting dirty inside.
I also got around to getting the power steering pump bracket, pump, resivoir, and harmonic balancer (with 3rd rib) to be able to hook it up. No power steering fluid though, I have to go buy some in a few min. I left the belt off, so all it is going to take is a 12mm wrench to loosten the pump and put it into position with the belt to see how it goes.
Another thing I omitted be4; I got the GSR sway bar, but it is missing the bushings the endlinks hook up to. I was able to find a complete sway bar setup from an LS with endlinks and mounts for $15. A few hours later it was up and installed; the muffler hits it when turning hard; I already plan to put a twin loop on so I don't care for now. As I said, only on hard turns.
After installing the swaybar, I had a 100% posative feel in the steering wheel... I was soo used to having to deal with the "slop" feel when it was taking turns hard, or at all; Now it is just the way it should be. (never owning a car with front/rear swaybars). It fights me in turns about twice as much (because of the rear end being soo stiff now) so that is the reason for jumping on getting the power steering in. It seems that this car was run without power steering for some time; so I am not sure how good the rack is. But, when I moved the hose from the drivers side bulkhead area, it dripped out an amount of fluid, so it should still be good to go; If not, I have a lifetime warranty on the one in my 4D, so I can just trade-in this one (per the request of the guy I know at Kragens).
So; Time to get some fluid, take this baby on some backroads (now having my pacesetter 4-2-1 headers and intake) to see how much this little D15B8 can handle. My only regret is not having new tires on yet; these ones are getting bald from being old.
more TBA.
I also got around to getting the power steering pump bracket, pump, resivoir, and harmonic balancer (with 3rd rib) to be able to hook it up. No power steering fluid though, I have to go buy some in a few min. I left the belt off, so all it is going to take is a 12mm wrench to loosten the pump and put it into position with the belt to see how it goes.
Another thing I omitted be4; I got the GSR sway bar, but it is missing the bushings the endlinks hook up to. I was able to find a complete sway bar setup from an LS with endlinks and mounts for $15. A few hours later it was up and installed; the muffler hits it when turning hard; I already plan to put a twin loop on so I don't care for now. As I said, only on hard turns.
After installing the swaybar, I had a 100% posative feel in the steering wheel... I was soo used to having to deal with the "slop" feel when it was taking turns hard, or at all; Now it is just the way it should be. (never owning a car with front/rear swaybars). It fights me in turns about twice as much (because of the rear end being soo stiff now) so that is the reason for jumping on getting the power steering in. It seems that this car was run without power steering for some time; so I am not sure how good the rack is. But, when I moved the hose from the drivers side bulkhead area, it dripped out an amount of fluid, so it should still be good to go; If not, I have a lifetime warranty on the one in my 4D, so I can just trade-in this one (per the request of the guy I know at Kragens).
So; Time to get some fluid, take this baby on some backroads (now having my pacesetter 4-2-1 headers and intake) to see how much this little D15B8 can handle. My only regret is not having new tires on yet; these ones are getting bald from being old.
more TBA.
ummmmm.... ok 
Update:
nothing special; Drove on the power steering (loud; about 100 shades louder than when it was in the 4D) and I know it probably still has some air in the lines. If it doesn't quiet down within a week, I am buying a new pump, and warrantying this rack out
As for the handling, I can now comfortably take a 20mph turn at 65mph with bald tires and have room to spare in my own lane

Update:
nothing special; Drove on the power steering (loud; about 100 shades louder than when it was in the 4D) and I know it probably still has some air in the lines. If it doesn't quiet down within a week, I am buying a new pump, and warrantying this rack out

As for the handling, I can now comfortably take a 20mph turn at 65mph with bald tires and have room to spare in my own lane
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JaredKaragen »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ummmmm.... ok 
Update:
nothing special; Drove on the power steering (loud; about 100 shades louder than when it was in the 4D) and I know it probably still has some air in the lines. If it doesn't quiet down within a week, I am buying a new pump, and warrantying this rack out
As for the handling, I can now comfortably take a 20mph turn at 65mph with bald tires and have room to spare in my own lane
</TD></TR></TABLE>
^^ plz don't drive near me or my children

Update:
nothing special; Drove on the power steering (loud; about 100 shades louder than when it was in the 4D) and I know it probably still has some air in the lines. If it doesn't quiet down within a week, I am buying a new pump, and warrantying this rack out

As for the handling, I can now comfortably take a 20mph turn at 65mph with bald tires and have room to spare in my own lane
</TD></TR></TABLE>^^ plz don't drive near me or my children


