mikeycivic

OK Fellas, I have a stock 00 em1 with about 65k on the motor. I have basic bolt ons but really wanna BOOST. I am looking to get about 300 WHP. Its not my daily driver but must remain reliable. I have talked with a few people about what size turbo to get for my boosting wants. I am unclear about all this trim size and a/r size. Everyone is telling me different numbers. I plan on buying a new turbo and getting everything or MOST of the other stuff used. What size turbo should I be looking for for what I want from my em1? I know nothing about the 3 bolt or 4 bolt flange, or polished housing. I have searched and I have found some stuuf but I want to make sure I get the right stuff the first time around. Thanks guys

JoePSI

600$ Turbo-
Garret T3/T04e 50Trim .48 A/R Exhaust Housing (5-Bolt)

1100$ Turbo-
Garret GT2871R 5-bolt(ball-bearing, makes the price double)

5-Bolt exhaust housings are recommended if you want to keep A/C.
A ball-bearing turbo will keep the spool of the turbo longer between shifts which makes the car more streetable.

mikeycivic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JoePSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">600$ Turbo-
Garret T3/T04e 50Trim .48 A/R Exhaust Housing (5-Bolt)

1100$ Turbo-
Garret GT2871R (ball-bearing, makes the price double)

</TD></TR></TABLE>

how will the spool be, I dont wanna rip the rubber of my tires, I want boost between 4-5k

JoePSI

The faster the turbo begins to spool the more usable powerband you will have. A turbo that doesnt spool till 5000rpm but hits your peak HP in less than 1500rpm is what causes traction issues.

So, the faster the turbo starts to spool the fatter the powerband, which makes a much more streetable car. Theres really no way to narrow down what your spool time will be, it all depends on your engine. 300hp can be easily put down. Get an LSD, Traction Bars and Drag Radials and i guaruntee you will get traction.

mikeycivic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JoePSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So, the faster the turbo starts to spool the fatter the powerband, which makes a much more streetable car. Theres really no way to narrow down what your spool time will be, it all depends on your engine. 300hp can be easily put down. Get an LSD, Traction Bars and Drag Radials and i guaruntee you will get traction.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its a street car!! This dude is pretty knowledgable and this is what he says

T3/TO4E 60 Trim .82 A/R - 4 Bolt Exhaust

(11:44 AM 3/29/2007) dturbocivic: its good pricing for sure.

(11:49 AM 3/29/2007) mikeycivic: thats not too big for my spool another guy selling them said to get a 57 trim wtih .63 ar ?

which ever trim you get try to get stag 5 or p trim exh wheel and the biggest a/r
housing you can get. .82 most likely


this is why I am so confused

0morgan@synapse motorsport

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JoePSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">600$ Turbo-
Garret T3/T04e 50Trim .48 A/R Exhaust Housing (5-Bolt)

1100$ Turbo-
Garret GT2871R 5-bolt(ball-bearing, makes the price double)

5-Bolt exhaust housings are recommended if you want to keep A/C.
A ball-bearing turbo will keep the spool of the turbo longer between shifts which makes the car more streetable. </TD></TR></TABLE>

what he said 50 trim .48 a/r for the stock b16, or a gt28rs ftw.

mikeycivic

ttt

mitsuman

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikeycivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its a street car!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
tons and tons of "street cars" have an lsd, traction bars, and drag radials

there is nothing wrong with them. you seem concerned about saving tire, then get an lsd and traction bars and nice tires. the softer the tire the better the grip the worse they will last.

you need to make a compromise somewhere.

JoePSI

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikeycivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Its a street car!! This dude is pretty knowledgable and this is what he says

T3/TO4E 60 Trim .82 A/R - 4 Bolt Exhaust

(11:44 AM 3/29/2007) dturbocivic: its good pricing for sure.

(11:49 AM 3/29/2007) mikeycivic: thats not too big for my spool another guy selling them said to get a 57 trim wtih .63 ar ?

which ever trim you get try to get stag 5 or p trim exh wheel and the biggest a/r
housing you can get. .82 most likely


this is why I am so confused
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You dont drive the drag radials everyday... lol
LSD and traaction bars are street legal... i'm confused on what the issue is there.

And yes dturbocivic is very knowledgeable, that turbo he suggested will work but the one i suggested will carry a much more streetable powerband. If you ever wanted to build the block you are going to want to upgrade your turbo regardless of it being a 60 trim .82 or 50trim. for example 400-500hp you are going to want a t3/60-1 or gt30r. Buying a turbo in case you decide to upgrade later is ludicrous, buy a turbo to meet your current HP needs. In conclusion a 60trim .82 a/r turbo is too large for a stock b16.

mikeycivic

so 50 trim it is I guess, thanks Joe. In all reality, if I buy a brand new turbo, how much would everything else cost me if I get what I need or MOST of what I need, used?

JoePSI

A brand new 50trim turbo can be found for 575$ + shipping through some of the sponsors on here. A used one usually goes for 350-400 in good shape. A turbo is one of those things I would buy new, like Engine internals. If you do get a used one and it has seal issues or shaft play you can rebuild them, You cant rebuild a Ball-bearing turbo such as a GT30R/GT35R.

mikeycivic

i plan on getting a new turbo for sure but what about all the other ish.

JoePSI

other ish? like manifold,fmic,ic piping,pump,return feedlines,bov,wastegate,chipped ecu,couplers,t-bolts,tapped oil pan. and so on?

mikeycivic

LOL Yeah ALL THAT

rodvang

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JoePSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> 5-Bolt exhaust housings are recommended if you want to keep A/C. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i've used the search feature to try and find the advantages and disadvantages of 4 and 5 bolt turbos, i've found nothing useful using "4 bolt turbo" and "5 bolt turbo" as my key words. anyone have a good link for me to read? i've checked turbod16.com and homemadeturbo.com. they all mention what kinds of turbos there are but don't cover 4 and 5 bolt turbos. performance wise, what are the advantages of a 5 bolt over a 4 bolt? i plan to keep AC in my car, how exactly does having a 5 bolt turbo give me an advantage?

thanks.

mitsuman

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rodvang &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've used the search feature to try and find the advantages and disadvantages of 4 and 5 bolt turbos, i've found nothing useful using "4 bolt turbo" and "5 bolt turbo" as my key words. anyone have a good link for me to read? i've checked turbod16.com and homemadeturbo.com. they all mention what kinds of turbos there are but don't cover 4 and 5 bolt turbos. performance wise, what are the advantages of a 5 bolt over a 4 bolt? i plan to keep AC in my car, how exactly does having a 5 bolt turbo give me an advantage?

thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
its not the bolt patern of the turbine housing which alows you to keep or not be able to keep ac, its the placement of the turbo the manifold offers. you need to get an ac compatible manifold.

the advantages of a 4/5 bolt? i cant see any. my preference is v band. super easy to install and take apart. do some research.

mikeycivic

FI update, I just bought
Garrett t3/t4 turbo thanks V
TCS 6 puck clutch with 8lb flywheel
255 walbro pump
I have a turbo xs BOV being given to me

Thanks for the info mitsuman, more updates later....to be continued!!!!

b18b1turbo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikeycivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FI update, I just bought
Garrett t3/t4 turbo thanks V
TCS 6 puck clutch with 8lb flywheel
255 walbro pump
I have a turbo xs BOV being given to me

Thanks for the info mitsuman, more updates later....to be continued!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

mitsuman

iTrader: (1)

no thang butta chickin ****! let me know about the manifold

mikeycivic

will do

JoePSI

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mitsuman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
its not the bolt patern of the turbine housing which alows you to keep or not be able to keep ac, its the placement of the turbo the manifold offers. you need to get an ac compatible manifold.

the advantages of a 4/5 bolt? i cant see any. my preference is v band. super easy to install and take apart. do some research. </TD></TR></TABLE>

5-bolt allows the manifold to angle the turbo differently. I wish phil (project dc2) from SPoolin would post. he explained it to me through a PM when I was buying my manifold from him.

mitsuman

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JoePSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">5-bolt allows the manifold to angle the turbo differently. I wish phil (project dc2) from SPoolin would post. he explained it to me through a PM when I was buying my manifold from him.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What?

the turbine outlet is either a 5 bolt, 4 bolt, or vband. I really dont see how that has anything to do with the manifold positioning of the "turbo". please explain. The only reason i can see using a 5 bolt is some turbo's have intetrnal wastegates and have an exh outlet worked into the DP, or was internally wastegeted then converted.

someone please correct me if im wrong.

DaveF

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mitsuman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What?

someone please correct me if im wrong. </TD></TR></TABLE>

you are


(6:35 AM 4/14/2007) dturbocivic: here is something simlar... tell that kid he can eat ****. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1924072

(6:39 AM 4/14/2007) dturbocivic: here is another one
"mike1114"
FYI.........the reason why people have to cut thier block is because they use the wrong manifold with the wrong turbo.
Some manifolds were designed around a 5-bolt exhaust housing like drag for example.

Some mani's were designed around a 4-bolt exhaust housing, like max-rev.

The turbo's angle differently from the centerline of the flange.


(6:39 AM 4/14/2007) dturbocivic: taken from https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1871461

(6:40 AM 4/14/2007) dturbocivic: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1861289

(6:42 AM 4/14/2007) dturbocivic: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1857080

(6:43 AM 4/14/2007) dturbocivic: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1850262

(6:45 AM 4/14/2007) dturbocivic: Quote, originally posted by InfamousDC2FI »
I bet the fit is going to be a little different, especially if you change the size of your exhaust housing. I had a 4 bolt .48 exhaust housing on my t3/t04e, and when i switched it to a 5-bolt .63 housing, it moved my CHRA almost 3/4" to the right and up. Your probably going to have to make some sort of modification to accomodate the new turbo.


(6:45 AM 4/14/2007) dturbocivic: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1821104

(6:51 AM 4/14/2007) dturbocivic: ok, thats all i could find,

mikeycivic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikeycivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FI update, I just bought
Garrett t3/t4 turbo thanks V
TCS 6 puck clutch with 8lb flywheel
255 walbro pump
I have a turbo xs BOV being given to me</TD></TR></TABLE>

Turbo is in, fuel pump is in, wastegate is on its way, p06 is on the way, clutch came in, mani dp dt are being made and should be here next week,