few quickies.....
ok tubro boys and girls
first.....What is the difference between the t04/t3B and the t04/t3E turbo? i am under the impression that the "E" is a bit larger and takes about 500 more revs to spool up.
secondly, with my Drag 3 that i am about to order with my B16....i am still a little in the dark as to what else to order besides guages, i am thinking hondata, missing link, new check valves and JS ultra safe guard. NOW, i know i dont need ALL of these things, but WHICH do you recommend, or NOT at all. WHat do you guys suggest i get to start out my turbo out with? a PROPERLY tuned engine is more important to me then an engine with tons of BOOST!
first.....What is the difference between the t04/t3B and the t04/t3E turbo? i am under the impression that the "E" is a bit larger and takes about 500 more revs to spool up.
secondly, with my Drag 3 that i am about to order with my B16....i am still a little in the dark as to what else to order besides guages, i am thinking hondata, missing link, new check valves and JS ultra safe guard. NOW, i know i dont need ALL of these things, but WHICH do you recommend, or NOT at all. WHat do you guys suggest i get to start out my turbo out with? a PROPERLY tuned engine is more important to me then an engine with tons of BOOST!
OK, I can't really help with the B vs. E compressor question although I believe the E models have a reputation for higher flow and efficiency.
On the other stuff... if you get the Hondata and have it tuned properly you can skip ALL the other stuff. The J&S would still be decent for insurance, but I think that insurance is much more important when you're using less effective engine management. With the hondata, detonation should not be an issue, and you have fewer patchwork components to deal with so there's less chance something is going to crap out on you and cause detonation problems. Absolute best solution is to get the hondata and save your money, and have a well-tuned engine with more power. That way the missing link, check valves, etc. are all unnecessary. Also, if you DON'T get the hondata, you have a choice of missing link, check valves, OR J&S ultra to block the boost pressure from reaching a stock ECU - they all accomplish the same thing by limiting the MAP sensor output, so you can take your pick. The J&S is probably the most effective solution because you don't have to worry about leaking or clogging check valves; and of course it also gives you detonation protection and boost retard features.
[Modified by dbman96, 6:55 PM 7/31/2001]
On the other stuff... if you get the Hondata and have it tuned properly you can skip ALL the other stuff. The J&S would still be decent for insurance, but I think that insurance is much more important when you're using less effective engine management. With the hondata, detonation should not be an issue, and you have fewer patchwork components to deal with so there's less chance something is going to crap out on you and cause detonation problems. Absolute best solution is to get the hondata and save your money, and have a well-tuned engine with more power. That way the missing link, check valves, etc. are all unnecessary. Also, if you DON'T get the hondata, you have a choice of missing link, check valves, OR J&S ultra to block the boost pressure from reaching a stock ECU - they all accomplish the same thing by limiting the MAP sensor output, so you can take your pick. The J&S is probably the most effective solution because you don't have to worry about leaking or clogging check valves; and of course it also gives you detonation protection and boost retard features.
[Modified by dbman96, 6:55 PM 7/31/2001]
for a daily driver, you cannot beat the Hondata for speed of tuning (comes with base start up and boost maps) and ease of use. And installation in less than 20 minutes? Sure thing, easy as pie
ok so to sum it all up.....tell me if i am correct in saying:
The hondata is the recommended route to go. with the hondata, a J&S ultra is NOT required, but could be added. the Hondata will REPLACE the need for a Missing link, AND check valves.
Is this statement correct?
finally....if i choose to go with the Hondata...what stage should i get? and i assume i should go for the "Boost" option as well?
The hondata is the recommended route to go. with the hondata, a J&S ultra is NOT required, but could be added. the Hondata will REPLACE the need for a Missing link, AND check valves.
Is this statement correct?
finally....if i choose to go with the Hondata...what stage should i get? and i assume i should go for the "Boost" option as well?
You seem to have the right idea. Unless you're a real racer, the Stage 2 plus Boost is typically the recommended solution. If you have an OBD1 ECU already (I'm not sure what car/year you have) you should be able to do the Hondata 2B for under $800, plus the cost of putting some larger injectors on to really take advantage of the hondata (which can be $300+ or you can buy someone's used injectors from another car like an Eclipse turbo for $45 on Ebay like I just did). Seems like a lot but doing this can also save you the cost of buying a fuel pump, boost dependent fuel pressure regulator, etc. etc. etc.
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well i have a '00 Civic Si with the b16 power plant....i am not sure which ECU this has, the OBD1 or OBD2. maybe someone could tell me which Hondata will run best with my car? also i am fairly new to the turbo scene still....what size injectors would you guys suggest running?
thanks again guys, you help out so much!
thanks again guys, you help out so much!
The hondata IS your ECU (sort of). If you want to use your own OBDI ecu, you have to desolder the chip on your ECU and put a socket there to hold the hondata chip (or so I have been told). I think hondata can do this for you if you are scared hehe. There is also a small hondata module that plugs into the ECU. It offers a serial connection so you can run the ECU off the emulator while tuning.
Dustin
Dustin
Actually, The Hondata is a modified stock OBD1 Ecu. The stock chip is replaced with a Hondata Unit which can then be programmed however U want, it can also run any size injector, also has data logging, U can even have different maps stored on very inexpensive chips, this is good for the different climatic conditions, or U can have a race map as opposed to a street map (Different maps burnt or stored on different chips and just plug in and out as U deem necessary). IMHO Doug did a wonderful job in turning the stock ecu into something equal to the DFI, Haltec and Speedpro. Has all the goodies too, may approach them from a slightly different angle but the end result is the same!
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