ebay radiator
Re: (nfn15037)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nfn15037 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
None. Half sized radiators are too small for high HP Honda engines. </TD></TR></TABLE>
SO riddle me this batman? How is it that everyone with high hp hondas run half sized radiators for obvious reasons like no room because of turbo setups and they work just fine. people making 600+whp on stock honda half sized radiators with no complications?
Seems to me like if your having heat issues with a half sized radiator on a honda then you have a bigger issue and its not the radiator and having a larger radiator just bandaided the problem by having more cooling capacity??????????
None. Half sized radiators are too small for high HP Honda engines. </TD></TR></TABLE>
SO riddle me this batman? How is it that everyone with high hp hondas run half sized radiators for obvious reasons like no room because of turbo setups and they work just fine. people making 600+whp on stock honda half sized radiators with no complications?
Seems to me like if your having heat issues with a half sized radiator on a honda then you have a bigger issue and its not the radiator and having a larger radiator just bandaided the problem by having more cooling capacity??????????
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From: olympia, washington
Re: (Turbo-LS)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tony the Tiger »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
High compression + boost lies within the tuner. I didn't get some knock off Ebay tuner to tune my car that depends on luck. Stop comfortng yourself and pretend that you've made a wise investment. Your car is no different than a russian roulette.
Read my post again and reflect:
</TD></TR></TABLE>tony i really usually enjoy reading your posts and respect your knowledge,but i do not agree with you on this matter...my buddy has been running an ebay radiator for well over a year with countless back to back dyno pulls and 5th gear freeway runs and has had zero problems...seems to me if that his car was like russian roulette the odds would have caught up to him by now...by the way my car is running a koyo radiator not an ebay radiator,so it wasnt my "unwise" investment...if the motor ever blows up because of being overheated or the radiator ever breaks i will admit that you were totally right but till that happens i guess we will have to agree to disagree
High compression + boost lies within the tuner. I didn't get some knock off Ebay tuner to tune my car that depends on luck. Stop comfortng yourself and pretend that you've made a wise investment. Your car is no different than a russian roulette.
Read my post again and reflect:
</TD></TR></TABLE>tony i really usually enjoy reading your posts and respect your knowledge,but i do not agree with you on this matter...my buddy has been running an ebay radiator for well over a year with countless back to back dyno pulls and 5th gear freeway runs and has had zero problems...seems to me if that his car was like russian roulette the odds would have caught up to him by now...by the way my car is running a koyo radiator not an ebay radiator,so it wasnt my "unwise" investment...if the motor ever blows up because of being overheated or the radiator ever breaks i will admit that you were totally right but till that happens i guess we will have to agree to disagree
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From: Bmore, usa
Re: (reactiondc2)
I just came from Tempest racing today, and joe got 404 whp on pump with my ebay mishimoto rad. I got it for $100.00 shipped. I had over an hour ride home from his shop in stop and go traffic and no sign of overheating.
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From: Boston, MA, USA
Re: (Turbo-LS)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-LS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">SO riddle me this batman? How is it that everyone with high hp hondas run half sized radiators for obvious reasons like no room because of turbo setups and they work just fine. people making 600+whp on stock honda half sized radiators with no complications?
Seems to me like if your having heat issues with a half sized radiator on a honda then you have a bigger issue and its not the radiator and having a larger radiator just bandaided the problem by having more cooling capacity??????????</TD></TR></TABLE>
Because you are talking about cars that make a 12, 11, or 10 second pass and then sit for an hour. Or street cars, they loaf around on the streets and boost 15 PSI every once in a while and proclaim to have an 'awesome' radiator, yet they are scared to 'booth in 5th' as Tony pointed out. The little shitty half sized radiators work fine for this, although I stand by my statement that the core design is worthless and flows less than OEM, even though it has those MaD bLiNgY end tanks y0. My point is, that for any kind of extended, hard running of the vehicle, a half radiator and especially a piece of **** Ebay radiator simply won't cut it. Not talking about street driving, not some idiotic 600 whp dyno/drag queen, an honest-to-goodness car that you can wring it's neck, over and over and over again any any gear, any day of the year, at any temperature. Apples and oranges.
For example: at a tarmac rally I participated in last september, I was running a ~380 wheel HP Integra. On one particulay 90 KM stage, I was at 230 KPa manifold pressure for over 90% of the stage according to my log files. That's 20 something minutes at full tilt, lifting for upshifts, downshifts, and braking zones. Add in bouncing the rev limit at 8700 RPMs for about 20 seconds straight in 5th gear('twas indeed more than a quarter mile). Your cute little half-radiator would be heat soaked and your coolant would overheat within a few minutes. There simply isn't enough surface area to dissapate all of the heat produced by the motor.
Again, I am saying this: the half-sized radiators are fine for most people who loaf around or do some drag racing, but for people who really push their vehicles, they are insufficient. Hopeflly you can process that.
Seems to me like if your having heat issues with a half sized radiator on a honda then you have a bigger issue and its not the radiator and having a larger radiator just bandaided the problem by having more cooling capacity??????????</TD></TR></TABLE>
Because you are talking about cars that make a 12, 11, or 10 second pass and then sit for an hour. Or street cars, they loaf around on the streets and boost 15 PSI every once in a while and proclaim to have an 'awesome' radiator, yet they are scared to 'booth in 5th' as Tony pointed out. The little shitty half sized radiators work fine for this, although I stand by my statement that the core design is worthless and flows less than OEM, even though it has those MaD bLiNgY end tanks y0. My point is, that for any kind of extended, hard running of the vehicle, a half radiator and especially a piece of **** Ebay radiator simply won't cut it. Not talking about street driving, not some idiotic 600 whp dyno/drag queen, an honest-to-goodness car that you can wring it's neck, over and over and over again any any gear, any day of the year, at any temperature. Apples and oranges.
For example: at a tarmac rally I participated in last september, I was running a ~380 wheel HP Integra. On one particulay 90 KM stage, I was at 230 KPa manifold pressure for over 90% of the stage according to my log files. That's 20 something minutes at full tilt, lifting for upshifts, downshifts, and braking zones. Add in bouncing the rev limit at 8700 RPMs for about 20 seconds straight in 5th gear('twas indeed more than a quarter mile). Your cute little half-radiator would be heat soaked and your coolant would overheat within a few minutes. There simply isn't enough surface area to dissapate all of the heat produced by the motor.
Again, I am saying this: the half-sized radiators are fine for most people who loaf around or do some drag racing, but for people who really push their vehicles, they are insufficient. Hopeflly you can process that.
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From: olympia, washington
Re: (nfn15037)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nfn15037 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Because you are talking about cars that make a 12, 11, or 10 second pass and then sit for an hour. Or street cars, they loaf around on the streets and boost 15 PSI every once in a while and proclaim to have an 'awesome' radiator, yet they are scared to 'booth in 5th' as Tony pointed out. The little shitty half sized radiators work fine for this, although I stand by my statement that the core design is worthless and flows less than OEM, even though it has those MaD bLiNgY end tanks y0. My point is, that for any kind of extended, hard running of the vehicle, a half radiator and especially a piece of **** Ebay radiator simply won't cut it. Not talking about street driving, not some idiotic 600 whp dyno/drag queen, an honest-to-goodness car that you can wring it's neck, over and over and over again any any gear, any day of the year, at any temperature. Apples and oranges.
For example: at a tarmac rally I participated in last september, I was running a ~380 wheel HP Integra. On one particulay 90 KM stage, I was at 230 KPa manifold pressure for over 90% of the stage according to my log files. That's 20 something minutes at full tilt, lifting for upshifts, downshifts, and braking zones. Add in bouncing the rev limit at 8700 RPMs for about 20 seconds straight in 5th gear('twas indeed more than a quarter mile). Your cute little half-radiator would be heat soaked and your coolant would overheat within a few minutes. There simply isn't enough surface area to dissapate all of the heat produced by the motor.
Again, I am saying this: the half-sized radiators are fine for most people who loaf around or do some drag racing, but for people who really push their vehicles, they are insufficient. Hopeflly you can process that. </TD></TR></TABLE>like i said earlier..most people dont road race their cars...most of us either build a drag car or a daily driver beater/drag car....i agree with you for road racing a half size radiator probably isnt going to be the best option,but for most of our applications it works fine..and yes i have seen a dreaded 5th gear pull with no overheating problems
Because you are talking about cars that make a 12, 11, or 10 second pass and then sit for an hour. Or street cars, they loaf around on the streets and boost 15 PSI every once in a while and proclaim to have an 'awesome' radiator, yet they are scared to 'booth in 5th' as Tony pointed out. The little shitty half sized radiators work fine for this, although I stand by my statement that the core design is worthless and flows less than OEM, even though it has those MaD bLiNgY end tanks y0. My point is, that for any kind of extended, hard running of the vehicle, a half radiator and especially a piece of **** Ebay radiator simply won't cut it. Not talking about street driving, not some idiotic 600 whp dyno/drag queen, an honest-to-goodness car that you can wring it's neck, over and over and over again any any gear, any day of the year, at any temperature. Apples and oranges.
For example: at a tarmac rally I participated in last september, I was running a ~380 wheel HP Integra. On one particulay 90 KM stage, I was at 230 KPa manifold pressure for over 90% of the stage according to my log files. That's 20 something minutes at full tilt, lifting for upshifts, downshifts, and braking zones. Add in bouncing the rev limit at 8700 RPMs for about 20 seconds straight in 5th gear('twas indeed more than a quarter mile). Your cute little half-radiator would be heat soaked and your coolant would overheat within a few minutes. There simply isn't enough surface area to dissapate all of the heat produced by the motor.
Again, I am saying this: the half-sized radiators are fine for most people who loaf around or do some drag racing, but for people who really push their vehicles, they are insufficient. Hopeflly you can process that.
</TD></TR></TABLE>like i said earlier..most people dont road race their cars...most of us either build a drag car or a daily driver beater/drag car....i agree with you for road racing a half size radiator probably isnt going to be the best option,but for most of our applications it works fine..and yes i have seen a dreaded 5th gear pull with no overheating problems
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From: wa, usa
Re: (nfn15037)
well, i'm not really sure why everyones gettin so pissy over this topic when the original poster just wanted to know how it works. although i've been using mine for 2 seasons, i'm not gonna go out and say everyone should get one just because "I" have one and haven't had any problems. I say if you're tight on cash like i was and needed to replace your radiator, these aren't a bad deal. I can't vouch for the consistany of the quality however cuz I know if they're all good or bad, I've only purchased one. I bought mine when they first came out for $130shipped. I'm sure you can't get them for alot less now. This is also my street car which I drive all the time, although not every single day cuz I have 2 other hondas
and yes, my cap fits like sh*t.
Last years setup with a ram horn and 3" downpipe.
This year's setup with CRP top mount and 4" downpipe. DP barely clears the radiator. David Lee "LEED" tuned my car on a Dyno dynamics dyno and street tuned it for hours. and he'll tell ya, he pushed the car pretty hard. He tuned it at 24psi, I'll be heading back to the dyno here next week to take it a lil higher 29-30psi.
and yes, my cap fits like sh*t.
Last years setup with a ram horn and 3" downpipe.
This year's setup with CRP top mount and 4" downpipe. DP barely clears the radiator. David Lee "LEED" tuned my car on a Dyno dynamics dyno and street tuned it for hours. and he'll tell ya, he pushed the car pretty hard. He tuned it at 24psi, I'll be heading back to the dyno here next week to take it a lil higher 29-30psi.
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From: Toronto, ON, Canada
Re: (EK k kay) + (reactiondc2)
Originally Posted by EK k kay
Sounds like you're just another typical consumer than never tries the cheaper solutions, but instead looks down upon them even though they've never tried any. If buying an expensive radiator makes you feel better assured that it will protect your car investment then good for you. Find me and the rest of the h-t community a $120 fluidyne and maybe we'll change our opinions.
note: h-t member Airbag Club overheated his n/a setup at the track and that was with a Koyo Aluminum race radiator. So there goes your assurance that these expensive radiators will never fail on you.
Originally Posted by reactiondc2
tony i really usually enjoy reading your posts and respect your knowledge,but i do not agree with you on this matter...my buddy has been running an ebay radiator for well over a year with countless back to back dyno pulls and 5th gear freeway runs and has had zero problems...seems to me if that his car was like russian roulette the odds would have caught up to him by now...by the way my car is running a koyo radiator not an ebay radiator,so it wasnt my "unwise" investment...if the motor ever blows up because of being overheated or the radiator ever breaks i will admit that you were totally right but till that happens i guess we will have to agree to disagree
I am not here to slam "Ebay" radiators. People sell Fluidyne radiators on Ebay, and some sell debaged brand name units probably from manufacturing rejects. What I don't get is how people budget their builds. Save a few tens of dollars to put a potential risk to your setup. Ebay radiators are well matched with Ebay junkyard setups, and if your setup qualifies, then so be it.
Telling me that this friend or a friend of a friend's friggin dog have no problems with their radiator doesn't mean anything. Out of 1000 units sold, who can guarantee that the failure rate isn't something along the lines of 50%? Nobody ever posts their horror stories about Ebay parts failing because it's pathetic and stupid (who wants to look stupid?)
I don't mind people trying to save a few bucks, but c'mon... The last time I saw someone running an Ebay radiator, an Ebay BOV and an Ebay WG would somehow have a $600+ tubular, all silicon hoses that does nothing but look good, has an aftermarket intake manifold, a billet throttlebody and a slew of BS that the car doesn't even need other than to feed the need to "upgrade".
Look around for local deals... If I can pick up a used Fluidyne for $140 CAD, why can't you? I've also stumbed across SummitRacing radiators. I am using one for my GT40R turbocharged V6 Camry, and only costs $169 US. The cores were beautiful, but they come with nothing except for the core and endtanks. All I had to do was fabricate the mounts and choose a style that is close to my in/out config.
Would I buy an Ebay radiator? Yeah right, not after seeing what happens to them in person. The most ridiculous thing of all was when one of my buddies car would have water tempatures that goes with engine load and RPM with fans on full blast and thermostat full open. Temperatures would hover between 88 deg C to 98 deg C from one 4th gear pull. Swapped to a "Stock" ITR radiator but converting one side to pusher fan (space constraints) actually solved all the cooling problems with water temps steady at 87 deg C. Maybe some of you should get a decent water temp gauge installed (no Autometer crap) right at the cyl head and log some temperatures.
So what do I get out of all this? Nothing... I am just trying to help people out and warn others. By attacking my posts, you are just trying to comfort yourself. If what I said bothers you so much, it probably means reality is sinking in
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From: hmt noggs
lets just say for some applications it works flawlessly others it could be a disaster. For my turbo D it works like a champ but im not pushing 500+whp with high underhood temps.
Modified by quicksilver1689 at 12:04 PM 9/7/2006
Modified by quicksilver1689 at 12:04 PM 9/7/2006
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From: olympia, washington
Re: (quicksilver1689)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quicksilver1689 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lets just say for some applications it works flawlessly others it could be a disaster.</TD></TR></TABLE>agreed
Re: (reaction360)
Has anyone successfully installed a CRX size radiator with a top mount manifold (wg to the side) in an eg hatch? I was contemplating going to the full sized rad with my setup. i have heat issues that i believe to be a combination of things and seeing NFN makes good points i figure why not try a lager radiator. was going to just run an OEM crx radiator which just by the size of it should give me much better cooling capacity for drag and street driving.
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