Here's the problem car over heats after 5 to 10 minutes of driving, it will only heat when load is applied. Sitting at idle it will be ok. I have intense heat a pressure comming from the upper and lower radiator hose.There is no overflowing or boiling in my coolant reserve. It is losing coolant in the reserve. I've removed the thermostat because I thought it could be the problem(ghetto I know). I noticed non stop bubbles in my coolant. I've bleed the system about 20 times with the cap off squeezing the upper and lower hoses and thru the bleeder vavle and putting it up to 3,000 rpms to relieve bubbles but still continue. My fan is pulling right now toward the engine and the fan is on constant. My radiator is a new aluminum half size full-race radiator. I changed the headgasket about a day ago(with copper sealant, arp headstuds tq to 80ft lbs, replaced uppper and lower radiator hose. Water pump has 3,000 miles on it. I have no milk in my pan or head. Coolant seems a little brown, I am using distilled water. What the he*l is going on. Can't seem to make it stay cool. Could the head be lifting how is it still sucking in air. I gonna buy another cap for the radiator since I am not to sure of the one that came with it and retorque the head again just in case. Also the previous headgasket really didn't show any signs of a leak. The car feels good under load, no signs of white smoke comming from the exhaust but there is a smell of coolant. I really don't wanna ruin my sleeved block. I need options someone please help.



Modified by Squirtle at 4:37 PM 6/6/2006

 

You have a head not sealing right. Period. Now why, I don't know. When you put the head on, did it sit evenly? Do you have oil leaking from anywhere around the head/block mating area? Did you check to make sure the sleeves were even? Pull the head, get a engineer ruler and make sure those sleeves sit even, the block deck and head are dead even, go from there.

 

When I put the head on it sat in flush there were no signs of warpage on the head or block, there was no signs of leaks on the mating areas. I have an extra head if it comes down replacing it, just didn't want to go thru another headgasket. I am open to other options before I pull the head.

 

did it overheat before you replaced the head gasket?

did you put the dowel pins back in the head?

is the coolant level is right since you bled the system?

platinum.

 

Dowel pins are in the intake side of the head. It did heat up before I changed the head gasket but never let it reach the H, I though it might be the thermo took it out and still heated up, changed the fans location(before it was pushing in front of the radiator) to behind the radiator and pulling toward the motor. The coolant in the radiator stays full, just the reserve tank drops a bit.

 

so you were having heating issues before but never reached "H"
u might have jsut warpped the head...
just take it off take it to a machine shop and its should be like $40 to get it resurfaced.....
you can reuse the headgasket jsut clean it real good with some wd40 or gasoline.. then shot it with copper seal...

run 50/50 instead of the distilled water.. u need to use coolant because seals need to be lubricated and it will also help keep the tempts lower.

throw a thermo back in there, if u want drill 3-4 holes to allow coolant to bypass it. ~Santos

 

Thanks man I guess I have no choice. Will buy straigh edge or ruler today and take it off.

 

good luck man and make sure to post the resolution...

platinum.