Alright, I turboed the d17a2... I know I know. I'm pushing 5 pounds on all stock internals with a stage 3 clutch and its running alright I guess for a d17.

But I have a few questions.. I want MORE POWER

I have a set of ARP head studs and a gates racing timing belt kit. How much boost do you think I can handle with this set up? Its a garret 57 trim turbo btw
Also, my clutch pedal feels soft but I'm sure i just need to rebleed the line.
I tuned the car with vafc-ii, and im upgrading to kpro whenever I have the possibility to get higher levels and yes I have a wideband.

-So overall, with the basic turbo set up and minimum tuning capabilities, how much boost? how much power? should I build the head (crower turbo cams, valves, springs retainers)?

 

What are you Hp goals first off?

 

hopefully 230 with stock block

 

Get the car properly tuned, Boost does not matter HP does.

 

^ yes i would certaintly get a proper tune and a dyno to see where your at and go from there

 

Aside from the tune though, I already understand that and I sent the ECU in yesterday to Hondata, do you think building the head is worth the money? Or if I want a little more power should I just turn the boost up?

 

Should be fine going up to 8psi on stock internals dout u will be anywhere near where u want it but 8 is usually fine I know a few guys running 10 but wouldn't recommend it

 

Do u know how much hp u have on 5 pounds?

 

You should stop posting in this forum and read the FAQs.

 

is that on a 14b or a 4088?

 

And you should **** yourself

 

4088

 

Let me clarify, are you basing your psi numbers of the turbo he is running or off of his internals? Do you believe hondas are safe on 8psi?

 

With that set up yes to a extent I've ran 8psi on my car for two years on a auto tranny with. Fmu before I sold it and it is still running fine so does that answer your question mr know it all? I'm giving him info off of personal experience not **** I read on the Internet

 

Basing a build off of PSI is dumb. That's Turbo 101.

 

I in no way know it all nor was I rude to you. You clearly do not know much about turboing a car. I do not know that much either but I own two right now and have been researching on doing a third. Just because something runs "fine" does not mean it is done right nor will it work for everyone. I only give advice that I know is the correct way of doing things, it is pretty obvious you have little idea about what you are suggesting and I hope you do not continue to give advice.

OP I suggest you ignore everything he has suggested and get reading on the FAQs in the forced induction section, also get that car on the dyno and tuned before you proceed.

 

Ya listen to this guy he's never turboed anything and I did say in my first post to do a proper tune and dyno before anything

 

You also seem to have poor reading comprehension as I mentioned I own 2 cars right now that are turbo.

 

Why would he do a "proper tune and dyno" before he does his upgrade? If he hasn't done it by now it's kinds late dontcha think?

The OP asking how much boost his engine can hold is misdirected. Anyone telling him that a certain PSI is safe is just plain wrong. Power breaks **** and that's what he should be worried about. Not 5 or 8 PSI on a turbo he hasn't even picked out nor a power goal he has yet to name. And to top it off it's a D-series so this "more power" isn't going to be that much more substantial unless he builds the bottom end.

This is Turbo 101 fellas.

And a VAFC for tuning? Is it powered by a Flux Capacitor?

 

Boost pressure has no relevance on engine life... a HP number does. A water hose and a fire hydrant have the same pressure. Which one does more work? An old T25 on 8lbs and a GT6041 on 8lbs do not make the same power or stress levels on the motor.

 

Retune professionally and get a boost controller. Your setup has the potential to make more power if you allow it to do so safely. Stock D series engines don't like more than about 220-240whp. If you stay under that range, you're golden. Another thing, a downsize to a T3/T04e 50trim .63ar would be a quick way to gain more powerband (and you wont sacrifice anything to get it)

 

Thanks, I'm probably going to keep my garrett t04e though. And with the stock bottom end and an awesome tune I think I can do 230 safe. My buddy tuned his own integra and he made 440 on STOCK INTERNALS, he won dyno day at Slow Mo. I trust him with my tune lol so that wont be an issue, and thanks for actually answering my question haha

 

B series engines can handle quite a bit more abuse than a D series. If you push your single cam too hard, the pencil-thin rods will bend = game over.

 

I have the same motor in my AM2 and after reading a million threads I decided to buy a 96 hatch EK style and build an LS/V and boost it. The money that would have to go into that D17 is so not worth it the gains.

 

How many successfully boosted EM2's driving around? That's why I like mine. I will eventually do a complete rebuild, just with school its not a priority. Just wanted some "safe" fun on stock internals. Thanks everybody!