Maybe since you already plan on taking off the pan, swap the pump to a stock unit. I have always ran stock pumps on my boosted D's without any issue. Even though people CLAIM the Y8 pump is inferior to the Z6 pump... I've never had an issue with the pumps.

 

That will be a good idea, but my funds wont allow it right now. Will restrict oil to the turbo

 

Too high of oil pressure can cause issues. Its not a good thing. New oil pump is less then $100 is memory serves me right.

 

Really? I thought these hondas loved it, outside from the turbo what else can it mess up.

 

ebay pot metal junk....this happend to me too
it ruined the feed line to the threads were stuck in it .

i found greddy oil feed lines the same price online and they were way better quality. one of those lessons we learn.

 

To put more info out there about oil pressure... I don’t know what my oil pressure is when the engine is cold, my gauge only reads up to 100psi. It goes right to 100 when the engine starts and after about 10mins or so the temp gauge starts going up and oil pressure goes down to 60-70 idle. The engine is brand new and I haven’t really driven it around or let it idle for 20mins. But I highly doubt it will go down to around 40 idle

 

@rick-rabies.. A 7 year little girl probably made that, lets give her some credit.


Went to sleep at twelve and woke up at 2am,.. ... sometimes I don't mind it, like today instead of even trying, got up to work on this early. There is not much left to do, so took off the panties to have a look in there. Look at all this unnotched goodness. I posted a video somewhere below










Now the pan only needs a bigger fitting for the return, gasket and thats it really. All I need other than that is a 4bolt down pipe

 

This will be the last update in a couple days since I wont have any more time to work on it. Removed the scavenge pump and purchased new fittings for the pan. Since the scavenge forced oil back into the pan I didn't need a big hole. Going with a half inch drain,



\\

 

its coming along ya?

 

I am trying.

 

I don't know why people think they need to slather the **** out of the oil pan gasket with liquid gasket. Its two flat surfaces. Don't over tighten the oil pan and you won't have any problems.

 

Came from the machine shop this way, its the first time i pull the oil pan gasket since the motor was built. I don't use that stuff, the thought of a chunk of that ending up in my block makes me nervous. I will get the oil pan back in a few days and will just bolt it on with a new gasket.

 

A friend braced/brazing the return fitting instead of welding it. It looks stock, I like it.








Installed the tial wastegate, it dumps right on top of the intake. Will order the dump tube and exhaust within the next two weeks

 

nice work!
i JB welded a 5/8" brass hose fitting ($4.95 @ home depot) into the side of my oil pan.
came out very nice.

 

Thanks, but I didn’t do it. I didn’t even know what brazing was until he explained it to me. I do like it though hopefully 1/2 inch is enough

 

Progress!!, orderd a china special downpipe and will give it to a freind to fix it, because it will obviously be broken when it comes in.

 

dude 700 to tune thats retarded i know a licensed ectuner in my state that tunes for 300 with dyno time

 

Massachusetts, everything is expensive here. That tuner I was talking about then does not work with Neptune so I did not bother contacting them further. I found another one that will do it for 400-500 depending how long it takes to do it.

 

Where in Mass are you? I'm less than 4 hours from Boston...

 

6 miles north of boston, I would gladly bring the car up there. issue is if it will make the 4 hour trip.

 

Just sitting here at work bored, and thinking back to all the times I have had to do mayor changes to the motor on this thing.

Like the first photo below is the 3rd engine replacement and all of them the valve cover was always swapped over to the new motor. I wasn’t doing any of the work myself at that time. The first was blown when I got it and the second was.…. actually lets not talk about that one. The third unbeknown to me had 200000+ miles. Then I installed a turbo on that motor and the turbo blew twice. Then the clutch broke to pieces and stopped working. Then I pull the block, give away the head and all the internals except the crank. Then through a weird turn of events end up with the valve cover again???. Then I have all sorts of issues building up the motor. So its obvious.. Then valve cover is obviously cursed/damned or something. Do I believe on that stuff….. no… but WTF, this hasn’t been a “pleasant” experience sometimes… and I blame all this on the valve cover…. SO I made up my mind, it has TO GO!!

If anybody has one let me know? I have $$$
If anybody wants to try his or her luck with my demonic red bad luck valve cover let me know. I will send it to you for free
This is posted on 2 forums so hurry up

(in all seriousness, this in an attempt to permanently get rid of the thing)

 

Tomorrow I will attempt to start the car again. Its not done yet, still have to wait for a 70mm throttle body from one of the vendors here. There are still other parts I want on it before I begin to street tune it. I was trying to order it from xeno site but my computer conveniently failed right at the checkout screen. I have classes to take and projects to finish so computer takes priority, so another delay. Its one I put together, the video is the most expensive part and still good, just motherboard/ram and hard drive so its not that bad.

Without a pc until all the new goodies arrive, can post from phone but, there wont be updates here until its back up and running.


Updated parts list
D16z6 Block, Free
P08 Head rebuild/ resurface $330
Vtec Solenoid $80
Bolts, studs ect Head parts $60
Eagle rods/ Vitaras/Hastings $520
ARP Studs $115
Waterpump $70
Tensioner $35
Felpro Headgasket $30
Felpro Belt $40
All Bearings and Machine work $1150
Greedy profec b II $200
CX Cast Manifold $110
Tial Wastegate $150
4 Bolt 3in downpipe $90
Drain fittings $30
Garrett Turbocharger $360
Braided oil feed/restrictors $90
Oil filter adapter $40
AEM Wideband $240
Omni 70mm Throttle body $99
Speedfactory 4 bar Map $90
Blox Manifold $195
AEM Gear $99
AEM Rail $125
Blox FPR $35
Xenocron Fuel Pump ~$60
Delsol VTEC wiring Harness $110
Axles $100
Precision 525 Injectors $215
Gasket Kit $70
TopLine Oil Pump ~$110
Stage 3 Clutch/ 10lb Flywheel $300
Flywheel Bolts $80
Tubing $80
BOV $70
Gauges & sensors $130
Neptune RTP $568
Hoses ect $50
In bay FPG $35
Lines & Fittings $130
Silicon Coolant hoses

Other Parts
Grant/NRG hub $250
Gauges $120
Panels $160

Wasted money/Garbage/for sale/Scrap parts
Ebay mbc (for sale $10)
Obx fittings $15 (garbage)
Flextube $30 (garbage)
CX racing 16g $320 (Sold $50)
Vitara/NPR $120 (Given Away)
HF manifold/exhaust flange + adapter (Sold 20)
TurboWerx Scavenge $250 (for sale $150)
Watercooler
Mazda Oil cooler $20 (for sale $10)

 

Got my throttle body today, it looks great, like a oem piece but only better... @ http://www.Phearable.net



Well this is it, no more engine parts... finally. I will put it all together this weekend and begin to tune. Finished putting together the PC so i will probably post my attempts this weekend. Kinda exited in seeing it running hopefully, never tuned before but I will just take my time with it.

 

I highly doubt The bigger throttle body will give me any gains, only reason I got it is to get rid of the dumb STUPID watercooling the stock ones have.







I also removed the exhaust, its not big enough for the new downpipe so just going to get rid of it. Tighten up the oil feed, I still have an orgy of fittings on it but since its a ball bearing turbo a .25 restrictor should work. Also the downpipe didn't really fit, I have to remove the radiator to get it to bolt on. Its to be expected, so its going to be fixed and then I will try again. I refuse to turn on the car without a wideband so I didn't fire it.

 

The item on the bottom of your stock throttle body isn't for cooling as you stated. Its the fast idle thermal valve. You could have simply bypassed it (not hooked it up) and got the same results... although the larger TB WILL make a noticeable difference with boost. Removing my stock Z6 throttle body and putting on an Integra LS one made a noticeable difference when I had my Greddy kit at 10psi.