civic_turbo_EJ9

hi all, I am building a D14A3 with turbo on it.

Been searching for uprated internals but, no avail.

The only parts I have found are D15B2 or D16 Internals.

My question is:

Will the H beams fit of a D15B2 or D16? I am for sure the pistons will fit because of the same bore (75mm) but, rods?

My Engine specs.

D14A3

Found in:
1996–2000 Honda Civic 1.4i EJ9 (European Market)
Displacement : 1,396 cc (85.2 cu in)
Bore and Stroke : 75.0 mm × 79.0 mm (2.95 in × 3.11 in)
Compression : 9.1:1
ECU code: P3X
Power : 75 PS (55 kW; 74 hp) at 6,000 rpm[6]
Torque : 109 N·m (11.1 kg·m; 80 lb·ft) at 3,000 rpm[6]
Valvetrain : SOHC (4 valves per cylinder), non VTEC
Redline : 6,800 rpm
Fuel cut: 7,200 rpm
Fuel Control : OBD2-a, DPFI (SFi – Simplified Fuel injection), 1+3 2+4 injectors thrown together
Transmission: S40

D14A4

Found in:
1996–1998 Honda Civic 1.4iS EJ9 (European Market)
Displacement : 1,396 cc (85.2 cu in)
Bore and Stroke : 75.0 mm × 79.0 mm (2.95 in × 3.11 in)
Compression : 9.2:1
Piston code: P3Y
Piston Compression height: 29.5 mm
Piston dish volume: -5.4 cc
ECU code: P3Y
Big-end bore: 43 mm
Rod length(center to center): 138 mm
Power : 90 PS (66 kW; 89 hp) at 6,300 rpm[6]
Torque : 124 N·m (12.6 kg·m; 91 lb·ft) at 4,500 rpm[6]
Valvetrain : SOHC, four valves per cylinder, non VTEC
Red line : 6,800 rpm
Fuel cut: 7,200 rpm
Fuel Control : OBD2-a, DPFI (SFi – Simplified Fuel injection), 1+3 2+4 injectors thrown together
Transmission : S40 (or S4PA for 4AT)
Deck Height : 207 mm

The D14A3 and D14A4 engines are identical, the difference is only one small gasket under the throttle body in D14A3 which restricts the air intake of the engine, this happen in some European countries.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Nope. Different deck heights, different strokes, and it wouldn't surprise me if the journals were different, as well. Combine that with the miserable starting point power, and the **** SFI, and you're SOL. Forged internals would have to be custom made ($$$), tuning is just shy of non-existent, and even if you do just boost it stock, you'll still be slower than a grocery cart being pushed by your grand mother. Swap the motor out for something that isn't useless, convert to proper PGM-FI, and work from there.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Yea you're in trouble.

just because the bore diameter is the same doesn't mean the pistons are.

with each d series (d12-17) having a different deck height, stroke, and rod length there's no doubt that because each different displacement d series piston even though they are 75mm Will vary

Everything from pin height, compression height, and dome volume will be different. so there's no way you can just swap the pistons.

1. probably the easiest and cheapest would be to find a more common, larger displacement d15 or d16. I highly doubt there's any aftermarket for the d14 and smaller motors given their limited distribution in the global market. these small motors were designed for maximum economy, not performance, so I doubt you could find any parts for them other than OEM

2. do a lot of research and find out of any other d series rotating assemblies will fit the d14 block. again due to the differences in deck height and stroke it's highly unlikely to accomplish this.

3. Contact a piston and rod company and if they are even willing to do this, send them a stock piston and rod for them to copy with higher performance items. this won't be cheap, figure 1,000USD minimum, a more practical estimate is somewhere between 1200-1500USD but then you have an entirely different problem I'll go into below.

even if you were to find internals the rest of the motor won't be optimal for forces induction.

you'll need aftermarket headstuds and any existing parts won't fit. you'd have to have custom made studs which means you have to cut a block in half at the location for a head bolt and take precise measurements for the company producing them. again not cheap and it will take time, even then the first parts you receive might not work.

clutch and flywheel. as far as I know any d15/d16 parts won't work so again you're in the custom parts area. this of course is assuming the car has a manual transmission. if it's an automatic don't even waste your time and take my advice at the bottom of this post

cylinder head, intake manifold, and throttle body. there's no doubt these pieces were designed for economy and not power. with forced induction this will be your biggest restriction. The stock head ports are no doubt tiny which limits power you can make.

the intake manifold probably has very long small diameter runners to increase torque production. good for a 62hp na motor, not good for a sub 300hp motor.

the throttle body is also no doubt tiny. while this is undoubtedly the easiest part to replace it does you no good as every other part will become the restriction.

the camshaft profile is also designed for economy and trying to make over 200hp on a cam designed for 62hp will severely limit power production.

your biggest and most complicated issue... the fuel system.

the odd configuration of your fuel injection system will also limit power as it's doubtful an injector swap is even possible. also your engine management system (i would use a chipped OBD1 ecu) won't support that injection style so you have no way to tune the engine. your only option is to convert to standard mpfi and the stock intake manifold wont support this, not to mention all of the wiring work needed and the fact that your stock OBD2 ecu will no longer run the motor so emissions will be impossible. so unless you find an mpfi intake manifold that's a direct swap or build a custom unit you're done before you even started.

by the time you have all of these custom parts made and get them all functioning properly your money and time invested will be huge and impractical. while I applaud you for being different and taking the road less traveled at some point you have to realize it's futile.
even if you could locate forged pistons and rods for your motor you're faced with the even larger task of finding main and rod bearings and the needed gaskets. I don't even have to look to tell you that a company like ACL doesn't make bearings. this means you are stuck with sourcing OEM bearings from Honda. given the motor type and age this is also quite unlikely. not only are they super expensive but if you do manage to find a dealer who can still get them you're facing a very long wait to get them. the gaskets and OEM replacement parts will be the same way.
plus with the money and time spent on the econoshitbox motor you could've easily had a fully built turbo d16z6 swap or you could have any b series motor in your car, running, and turbocharged. anything from a non vtec b18 or b20b to a b16a/b or a b18c1 or an ls/vtec or b20vtec.

I definitely think it's time you consider a more practical engine swap to start with or buy a newer car with a more popular motor in it. I think everyone else will agree 110% with my comments.

civic_turbo_EJ9

Thanks the customer I am dealing with wants something special so d15, d16,b16,b18,b20,k20,k24 is a nono. Will manufacturer custom parts then.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Uh, if you're quoting Wikipedia at us, and asking us if there are any shelf parts out there, I legitimately feel sorry for your customer...

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I've never heard of a d14 at least in a US market. I even had to go to Wikipedia to look up the motor. I Googled the engine code and Wikipedia was the only link lol.

I think you need to tell your customer to take a hard look at what he wants. you're going to spend easily 10,000usd getting all of these parts made and getting them to all function properly. even if this does work out the small displacement will limit power.

it will take an unreasonable amount of work just to get 300hp out of that tiny 1.4l. and like I said it will take multiple attempts to get it right.

you're facing converting the motor to mpfi, which will take a custom intake manifold, fuel rail, etc.

then there's the camshaft. no one offers billets for that motor so your only option is a regrind. regrinds also have limits and given that the motor is very uncommon you don't know how changing certain cam specs will effect engine performance. you'll have to go through multiple grinds (and therefore multiple cams) to get it right.

toss in that most of the piston, rod, and cam companies that do this kind of work are located in the US. This means even more downtime and an added cost with shipping and customs fees.

you are headed for a world of pain and annoyance from a customer that probably wonders why it won't work the first time. so he will undoubtedly be a pain in the ***. add in the time you're going to waste doing all of this along with the final overall cost and there's a very real chance your customer can't afford this. leaving you stuck with a bunch of parts you can't even sell to recover costs, not to mention the time you wasted that you'll never get paid for and could have been using to make money.

by the time you add up labor and parts costs your customer could of had a very capable high horsepower b or k series. like I said at some point you have to realize this is pointless and I think I've made my point for you being at that point.

tell your customer to seriously reevaluate his goals and go with something a bit more common or send him to another shop so he can waste their time and money

civic_turbo_EJ9

useless reaction this but, never mind.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Considering that it directly addresses what you're talking about doing, it's not useless at all. It's damn good advice from two people who both know what they're talking about. Trying to get anything special out of that engine is going to be absolutely nothing but a headache. The amount of work - both in parts and in labor - required simply to prepare the motor for boost will easily cost twice as much as a basic 1.6L swap, and then you still have to spend more money than necessary on adding FI to the thing afterwards. One of two things will happen with this project. Either you'll waste your time for not enough money to make it work, or you'll completely over-charge your customer to both give him what he wants and make it worth your time. Any respectable shop would fully explain this to their customer, and no one with two brain cells to rub together would do it.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Exactly. I've worked in huge shops in atlanta. One shop my buddy owned I worked on everything from 1500hp Supras, R33 and R34 GT-R skylines, 900hp SVT Cobras, 1jz/2jz SC300s, 240s with every imaginable engine swap, professional FormulaD competition cars, 800awhp Audi's (we built a 900hp audi tt, so stupidly fun lol), 300zx, 350/370zs, vr4 3000gts and vr4 galants, evos, stis, dsms, trucks, etc.

I know what I'm talking about when I say you're heading for trouble. You might want to FULLY explain to your customer what he's in for in terms of cost (parts and labor will easily approach 15,000USD) and the time it takes... you're looking at probably a month minimum just to have pistons and rods made, excluding the time it takes to ship the parts and the time they sit in customs, then there's the time for having a cam made, an intake manifold that supports mpfi made, the time to destroy a block to properly measure for headstuds then the time it takes to make those.

then there's the custom flywheel... fidanza should be able to make a custom aluminum flyhweel with a replaceable friction insert and they might be able to make it use common cluthes from the d16 family, if not then you need a custom clutch

then there's building a new engine harness to support MPFI... the list goes on and on

oh yea, let's not forget the transmission. The d14 trans was designed for economy, not performance. as such the shift forks are weak, the gearset uses narrow gears, etc. it might not even live long enough to make 250hp. the easiest thing to do would be to locate a z6 or y8 trans. (the z6 has steel shift forks and is the better trans)

you're looking at close to a year to get everything made and dialed in properly... at least.
so you have to look at it in the long run from a business point of view

do i have space for this car and it's parts to stay in my shop this long
will i be able to get other customers cars done in a timely manner and within budget
will doing this pointless build bring in any business from people who see the car
will the customer understand the financial and time costs involved with a project like this
will the customer understand that with custom parts they may not work the first time and will have to be redesigned and remade.
will he accept the extra financial costs of having parts remade and reshipped, will he understand the extra time involved.
if i finish this car will the customer be able to pay for the parts and labor
do i understand that if the customer backs out and owes me money that i will have a shop full of parts that have no resale value and i will have to put a lien on said customers car to be able to sell it and recoup expenses

if the answer to any of these questions is NO then you need to back out now. Tell the customer that wants he wants to do simply isn't practical and that there is a very high cost involved... like buy another really nice and fast car cost.

if you still decide to hang yourself with this project make sure the customer pays for the parts up front, that's how shops, including ours, do it over here. That way the shop isn't out of pocket any money on parts so if he backs out you still have his parts and his car.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

$15k. That's boosted K swap money right there.

turbomaniac

d14 turbo.....

i agree with wantboost and notaracist

get a bigger engine, its a waist of money and time...

if you still want to turbo the d14 make it at stock internals and stock CR for 150-160hp

a used turbo from subaru WRX (td04-13g) is the perfect turbo for the mod.

for new turbo a garrett GT2554 would be ok